62° Good Afternoon
62° Good Afternoon
Diners on the outdoor patio of View, a

Diners on the outdoor patio of View, a restaurant in Oakdale, have a wide view the Great South Bay. (June 26, 2010) Photo Credit: John Griffin, 2010

View answers a popular question on Long Island: Can you find a very good restaurant on the water?


Lessing's, the group that dramatically overhauled and improved the landmark Three Village Inn in Stony Brook, does even more with what was previously Riverview, turning a mummified '80s concept into a '10 destination.

This property once was part of the 900-acre Vanderbilt estate, Idle Hour. The new restaurant, which emphasizes seafood raw and cooked, looks onto Great South Bay and the Connetquot River.

It's an ideal perch for executive chef William Muzio, a veteran of the Montauk's East by Northeast and the departed Pacific East of Amagansett; and sushi chef Kun Chang Chen, from the shuttered Yamato in Oakdale.

In addition to losing two syllables, View has dropped the kitsch, streamlined the look - and upped the ante.


Plump, meaty crab cakes are livened up with Meyer lemon aioli, mango and avocado; crisp "Thai calamari" with crushed peanuts, cilantro, lime and a sweet-chile glaze. Shrimp seviche, good; shrimp cocktail, better. "Peking duck" tacos have crunch and tenderness, with the diverting taste of hoisin and avocado. Lobster bisque delivers rich flavor; Long Island clam chowder, a bracing, cream-free, near-Manhattan alternative. Sweet coconut-and-kaffir lime broth accents sea-scallop carpaccio. A special of tuna crudo stands out, given subtle heat with a thread of jalapeño. Colorful, harmonious "specialty" rolls top the sushi selections. Sweet heirloom tomatoes surrounding delicate, bread-crusted yellowtail snapper find a foil in tiny squares of balsamic-vinegar gelée. A creamy risotto of Montauk lobster complements pan-roasted sea scallops with citrus beurre blanc. Expert crème brûlée.


Overcooked stuffed lobster and chicken-shrimp spring rolls; pasty cavatelli with lobster. Tender filet mignon highlights standard surf and turf. Singed strawberry-rhubarb cobbler, frosty yuzu parfait.



View, 3 Consuelo Place, Oakdale; 631-589-2694,

COST $$-$$$

SERVICE Very good

AMBIENCE Very good


Dinner, Sunday-Thursday, 4-10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday to 11 p.m. Lunch, Monday-Friday, noon-4 p.m.; Sunday brunch, 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Reservations suggested. American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa accepted.


Cu29 Wine and Bistro

FOOD 2 stars

100 S. Main St., Sayville


COST $$-$$$


AMBIENCE Very good

The successor to Collins & Main features flavorful American fare, new and traditional. Recommended: roasted beet carpaccio with fried goat cheese; seared day-boat scallops; crab, mango and avocado salad; braised short ribs and butter-poached lobster tail; Brandt skirt steak capped with a fried quail egg.

The Brass Rail

FOOD 3 stars

107 Forest Ave., Locust Valley



SERVICE Very good

AMBIENCE Very good

This handsome gastro pub, complete with the antique bar from its 19th century namesake, stands out with full-flavored, casual fare. Recommended: chili, short-rib quesadilla, Cubano sandwich, shrimp-and-oyster po'boy, roast chicken, oxtail sloppy Joe sliders, sirloin burger au poivre.


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