Chef Jonathan Levine transforms the restaurant at Danfords Hotel & Marina, the local landmark at the harbor. The hotel has been refreshed and updated in recent years. But Levine makes Wave. It's easily the best dining room here in memory, recent or distant.
The harborside spot seems cozier, even when the bar and lounge two steps away are going full blast. Subdued hues, streamlined decor and soft lighting contribute to the easygoing mood. But it's Levine's show, precise and meticulous, from a cook who started as a computer programmer. Levine's résumé includes fish chef at Guy Savoy, the elegantly contemporary Vegas offspring of the great Paris restaurant; and executive chef at The Buffet at Wynn Las Vegas.
Wave is a sure thing.