Summer slips into fall. Lobster still goes in the pot.
I know it's irresistible to crack claws on a sunny day at the beach. Or dive into a lobster roll harborside, enjoying a little breeze.
But the king of crustaceans (apologies to crayfish and crabs) is a year-round feast. Here are three ways to savor one.
Lobster bisque at Stonewalls in Riverhead. It's France meets New England here: deep flavor, and diced Maine lobster meat. You'll forget about all those floury, pale imitators that wash over Long Island menus.
Stonewalls is at 967 Reeves Ave., Riverhead; 631-506-0777, ext. 2.
Broiled lobster at Bryant & Cooper in Roslyn. I prefer steamed. But the broiled one at B&C is slightly smoky, juicy, and rivals the steaks.
Bryant & Cooper, 2 Middle Neck Rd., Roslyn; 516-627-7270.
And there's the warm, buttery lobster roll for purists at Noah's in Greenport. I like the mayo-laced lobster rolls, too. But this rendition smoothly welcomes autumn.
Noah's, 136 Front St., Greenport; 631-722-2900.
Photo: At Noah's in Greenport.