The bistro and the brasserie have their own adaptations on Long Island, where they've become standards. Some are French, most are not. But plenty of them are very good. Here are four destinations to enjoy the style.
One of the early entries: Bistro Cassis in Huntington. This cozy place with fine service updates classics and keeps others. Enjoy the onion soup gratinée and the steak tartare, the frisée salad with crisp bacon and a poached egg, mussels many ways, steak au poivre, and roasted chicken for two.
Bistro Cassis is at 55B Wall St., Huntington; 631-421-4122, bistro cassis.com.
Brasserie Cassis in Plainview is a bigger, splashier destination. Try the steak frites, trout amandine, the raw bar, and, for a change, the paella with seafood and chorizo sausage. This restaurant is associated with Bistro Cassis, and both serve a localized version of bouillabaisse as the Friday special.
Aperitif in Rockville Centre tweaks the French bistro theme with cross-border dishes. The dining room, however, looks the part. Sample the pan-seared, stuffed pork chop paired with apple-parsnip puree. Fine crabmeat and beet-and-goat cheese salads, prosciutto-onion-Gruyère flatbread, sole meunière, hanger steak.
Aperitif, 242 Sunrise Hwy., Rockville Centre; 516-594-3404, aperitifbistro.com.
The offspring of red/bar brasserie, little/red in Southampton is new but feels as if it has been in town for a long time. The kitchen sends out velvety tuna tartare, herbaceous roasted chicken, fish-and-chips, and an excellent linguine with cockles in white wine-lemon-garlic sauce. Dark chocolate marquise with candied hazelnuts for dessert.
little/red, 76C Jobs Lane, Southampton; 631-283-3309, littleredsouthampton.com.