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Elaia Estiatorio in Bridgehampton and more restaurants to try this weekend

Feta saganaki -- sesame enctusted pan-fried feta with

Feta saganaki -- sesame enctusted pan-fried feta with tomato marmalade -- at Elaia Estiatorio in Bridgehampton. Credit: Gordon M. Grant

The Aegean sea is that  brilliant blue of calendars and postcards, of memories and adventures. Here are three restaurants that capture that spirit and the cuisine of the Greek islands.

Elaia Estiatorio in Bridgehampton is a seductive, summery destination, airy and light, with country style and excellent food. Recommended: grilled octopus with fava beans; beet salad atop honeyed yogurt; keftedes, or Greek meatballs; grilled, whole local black sea bass; leg of lamb cooked in parchment; saganaki, made with feta and crusted with sesame seeds; spanakopita; patitsio; orange-infused yogurt cake with orange syrup; baklava; kmek kataifi with creamy custard. Expensive.

Elaia Estiatorio, 95 School St., Bridgehampton, 631-613-6469,

Oniro Taverna in Woodbury has been buzzing since day one earlier this summer. It's a relative of Limani in Roslyn, but with generally more modest prices. Recommended: grilled octopus; grilled calamari; "deconstructed" salmon tartare; melitzanosalata; taramasalata; grilled fagri for two; grilled red snapper; shredded-phyllo crusted shrimp with yogurt-scallion sauce; saganaki, or fried kefalograviera cheese; beet salad with smoked goat cheese mousse; grilled lamb chops. Moderate to expensive.

Oniro Taverna, 8289 Jericho Tpke., Woodbury, 516-367-8250,

Neraki in Huntington is awash with the blue of the sea and the sky. It's a very dependable Greek-Mediterranean restaurant for seafood. Recommended: charcoal-grilled porgy; whole fagri; black sea bass; swordfish steak; pan-fried flounder; strip steak; pork sausage; shrimp saganaki; grilled lamb chops; taramasalata; hummus; spiced feta cheese; stuffed grape leaves; Greek salad; baked lima beans; lunch sandwiches of Greek sausage, broccoli rabe and feta, and of meatballs, kefalograviera and peppers. Moderate.

Neraki, 273 Main St., Huntington, 631-385-3474,

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