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Weekend picks: Lose an hour, gain a memory

Southampton Publick House is located at 40 Bowden

Southampton Publick House is located at 40 Bowden Square. Credit: Gordon M. Grant

Daylight saving time claims an hour on Sunday. So, where would you go in search of lost time? Here are three restaurants that recapture the past -- and enjoy the present, too.

La Marmite in Williston Park is among the last continentals. Very good service, handsome appointments, and dishes such as onion soup gratinee, duck a l'orange with wild rice, calf's liver with bacon and onions, and a puffy gâteau Saint-Honore.

Le Soir in Bayport recently reopened after a fire. Come back for country pate, steak au poivre, sole amandine, fricassee of lobster with whiskey sauce, braised sweetbreads, filet mignon Bordelaise and a special of cassoulet.

And just because of Biere de Mars, hoist one at Southampton Publick House. It still has a hint of the old days at Bowden Square, and better beer. Sample ale-braised pork osso buco, rib-eye steak with IPA steak sauce, potato-ale soup.

La Marmite, 234 Hillside Ave., Williston Park; 516-746-1243.

Le Soir, 825 Montauk Hwy., Bayport; 631-472-9090.

Southampton Publick House, 40 Bowden Sq., Southampton; 631-283-2800.