TODAY'S PAPER
78° Good Afternoon
78° Good Afternoon

As summer mellows into fall, the deck of Wildfish calls. Sip a glass of wine as you dig into lobster tails and filet mignon, gazing, all the while, at the boats reflected in the basin. Enhancing the idyll is the $27 tab that includes appetizer, entree and wine.

At Wildfish, a prix-fixe is always happening: $15 at lunch, the aforementioned $27 at dinner. Monday and Tuesday is surf-and-turf night, Wednesday is Italian night and Thursday to Sunday, a general choice range prevails.

Wild and wonderful

From chef Brad Rubano comes an amuse bouche; one night, it's hummus and crudités; on an afternoon, it's a rice and fruit salad. A crab cake appetizer emphasizes crab and spice; it's beautifully plated with sweet corn relish and mustard sauce. Bacon lends a smoky note to the just-creamy-enough New England clam chowder.

I'm especially taken with the surf-and-turf combo, two large lobster tails and a velvety filet mignon served with roasted potatoes and spinach. A real surprise is the delectable, delicate sauteed sole with potato puree, tender-crisp green beans and toasted almonds. A slab of salmon, neatly grilled and served over a baby spinach salad with olives, bell peppers and a lemon vinaigrette, is at once light and substantial.

At lunch, half a chilled lobster is perfectly cooked, sweetly marine. Veering from the cliche is a salad of teriyaki grilled salmon and scallops with an Asian miso glaze over a mix of micro greens, baby spinach, grilled asparagus and sesame-cucumber salad. In a similar Asian vein is a dish from the a la carte menu - a salmon "burger" artfully set atop micro greens with pickled ginger.

I like the babka-like chocolate bread pudding but am wowed by a homey pear cobbler with vanilla ice cream with basil and a shot-glass of Champagne dotted with diced pears.

Almost wonderful

A sweet-savory carrot and apple soup is a bit too thick, while lobster velouté is thin and lukewarm; tomatoes in an otherwise fine grilled tuna BLT are pale; the jumbo shrimp accompanying the chilled lobster at lunch is overcooked.

Bottom line

Near, but not on, the Nautical Mile, this waterside seafood spot is in a class by itself.

Location

507 Guy Lombardo Ave., Freeport. 516-442-0565.

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