Decorated with lots of beachy whitewashed wood, the new Yevma Authentic Cuisine in East Meadow says Southampton more than it does Santorini. Which sets it apart from most other blue-and-white Greek restaurants on Long Island.
Chef Peter Mesaris, who hails from Greece, establishes his cred with an appetizer of grilled octopus ($15.95), big tentacles served, properly, uncut, bathed in olive oil and oh, so tender. His grilled calamari ($16.95), an entree, is a lot more resistant to the tooth, though. Something you don’t see on every menu — and part of a huge mixed grill for two ($35.95) — is panseta, or thick grilled bacon coated with a lemon-thyme-honey sauce. Intriguing — and very good.
Yevma Authentic Greek Cuisine is at 2065 Hempstead Tpke., East Meadow, 516-280-2208, yevma.com