A chef who once worked at Nobu has taken up residence in an Oceanside storefront, presiding over the hamlet's newest sushi bar.
Yori Ho is the owner and chief slinger of toro, salmon and other fish at his namesake Yori Japanese Cuisine, which opened several weeks ago where Wasabi Sushi once operated. (The liquor license remains under the former business name, suggesting fluid ownership). The cozy spot has a sushi bar and a few tables, and a menu comprised of hot and cold Japanese plates, plus nigiri sushi and rolls, with an emphasis on artistry.
Easier-to-find Japanese appetizers (starting at $8) such as gyoza, shumai, agedashi tofu and tuna tataki are augmented by harder-to-find bites like oshitashi (boiled spinach with sesame) and kushiyaki (grilled skewers of chicken or beef). Echoes of Peru, where Japanese culinary influence is strong, come in the form of a whitefish or scallop tiradito in a yuzu-lemon sauce or ceviche of salmon, shrimp, whitefish, octopus and squid with tomatoes, cucumber and quinoa.
Similarly, rolls (starting at $6.50) go from simple (dragon rolls and the like) to the ornate, which top out at $17, and among the larger plates is tonkatsu pork with a mustard-barbecue sauce and an array of udon. Specials so far have included toro with gochujang and miso and Wagyu-beef tataki; "create your own" bento boxes are $30.
A thoughtful sake selection shares the alcoholic bill with Japanese beers such as Sapporo and Kirin Ichiban, as well as wine.
Yori Japanese Cuisine opens at 11:30 a.m. for lunch and dinner from Monday to Saturday, and 1:30 p.m. on Sunday. It is closed on Monday. Find it at 144 Mott St., Oceanside. 516-766-8818. yorijapanesecuisine.com.