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THE SON ALSO FALLS / From elephant hunter to bejeweled exhibitionist, the tortured life of Gregory Hemingway. SIDEBAR: A Family History (see end of text)

Miami

ON HIS last night as a free man, Ernest Hemingway's youngest son slipped on

a demure black cocktail dress and made his way to a small private party in the

upscale Miami enclave of Coconut Grove.

He introduced himself to friends as "Vanessa" and spent much of the evening

in the kitchen, chatting with millionaires in country club attire. Guests say

he didn't get drunk. He seemed to be in good spirits.

"The odd thing about it was, he looked happy," says writer Peter Myers, who

had never seen his old friend dressed as a woman before.

"I'd say he looked about 20 years younger. He looked comfortable." But

things took a rapid turn for the worse, as things often did in the life of

Gregory Hemingway, a doctor who had lost his medical license, a writer who

hadn't published a book in 20 years, a husband who had been divorced from four

wives.

Less than 24 hours after he successfully introduced his female identity to

some of his oldest and most respectable Florida friends, he resurfaced in the

nearby community of Key Biscayne.

Perhaps he wanted to celebrate his triumph at a local bar, a friend says.

Maybe he intended to take a walk on the beach.

What is clear is that at about 4 p.m. the next day, Sept. 25, the burly

transsexual was seen parading down a main Key Biscayne thoroughfare, naked,

with a dress and heels in his hand. Taken into custody by an officer who

described him as "very nice" and perhaps mentally unstable, he was charged with

indecent exposure and resisting arrest without violence.

After a medical exam showed he had undergone a sex change, he was jailed -

on a mere $1,000 bail - at the Miami-Dade Women's Detention Center.

On Oct. 1, his sixth day in jail, Hemingway, who suffered from high blood

pressure and heart disease, rose early for a court appearance, began to dress

and suddenly collapsed in his underwear onto the concrete floor.

The third son of the 20th century's most resolutely macho literary figure

had died, at age 69, in a women's jail.

Gregory Hemingway's journey from elephant hunter to bejeweled

exhibitionist, from the boy who appeared to have everything to the prisoner in

cell 3-C2, was long and winding, marked by many detours and numerous

contradictions.

On this much, however, friends and family agree: He suffered from manic

depression, a form of mental illness. Even in a family tormented by chemical

imbalance - Gregory's father, paternal grandfather, uncle, aunt and niece all

committed suicide - the man who sometimes called himself Gloria was notably

tormented.

"He had hundreds of shock treatments, and he kind of got to like them,"

says Jeffrey Meyers, who wrote one of several major biographies of Ernest

Hemingway. "It was like an addiction. Most people are terrified of shock

treatments. If you read Sylvia Plath's 'The Bell Jar,' it's not something you

would willingly do."

There are many who remember Gregory Hemingway as unfailingly gentle and

generous, but when he was in the manic - or euphoric - stage of his disease he

could be reckless, even violent. He had a string of arrests in Florida and

Montana, where he spent his winters, including one in which he threatened to

expose himself and kicked a police officer in the groin.

Other factors in Hemingway's decline, his associates say, may have included

a chaotic childhood, a complex relationship with his mother and a sometimes

overwhelming desire for acknowledgment from his famous father.

And then there were the dresses.

At the heart of Hemingway's tangled tale was a lifelong flirtation with

femininity that enraged Ernest, that epitome of swaggering American machismo,

and led to a series of father-son confrontations that scarred Gregory as a boy

and haunted him as an adult.

The battles date back to at least the early 1940s, when, according to

Gregory's friend, the poet Donald Junkins, Ernest walked in on Gregory - then

about 10 - while his athletic young son, the skeet shooter with the mischievous

grin, was trying on his stepmother Martha Gellhorn's dress and nylons. Ernest

"went berserk," Junkins says.

Father and son appear to have remained close for several years after that,

with Ernest even tutoring the boy he called Gig for a career as a writer. But

by the time Gregory was 19, he and Ernest were locked in bloody psychological

warfare over the lure of silk and taffeta.

It was a battle that would span much of the son's life and continue for

decades after the father's death.

***

Ernest Hemingway was a man who got what he wanted: the biggest fish, the

prettiest girl, the Nobel Prize. And in 1931, the man they called "Papa" wanted

a daughter.

The birth of a third son, Gregory Hancock Hemingway, on Nov. 12, was an

added complication in an already shaky marriage.

"My father had wanted a daughter badly," Greg wrote in his 1976 book,

"Papa, a Personal Memoir." "So to my mother, my birth meant that she, or

perhaps I, had blown this last chance to make her lovable egomaniac happy." His

mother, Pauline Pfeiffer, the second of Hemingway's four wives, left much of

Greg's early upbringing to a "'verness" named Ada, who, according to Greg,

tended to respond to even minor misbehavior by screaming, packing her bags, and

fleeing down the stairs. His father was a warmer figure, and although he was

frequently absent - reporting, writing and romancing his next wife - Greg

adored him.

Strong, stocky and keenly intelligent, the dark-eyed boy, who fed ducks

tenderly and shot them accurately, in many ways resembled his father, who once

said Greg "has the biggest dark side in the family, except me." Father and son

shared a similar steely determination, and by age 11, Greg was showing signs of

the same athletic gifts.

That was when Ernest entered his son in the Cuban pigeon-shooting

championship. Greg defeated more than 140 contestants, including some of the

best wing shots in the world, to tie for top honors. There were articles about

him in the Havana newspapers. His father was thrilled. But if there was

triumph, there was also tumult.

Ernest ran through four wives by the time Greg was 15. He drank heavily and

allowed his young son to do the same. Greg recalls in his memoir having his

father cheerfully prescribe him a Bloody Mary - the boy was maybe 12 - as a

cure for a hangover.

The conflict over cross-dressing had worsened by 1951, when, according to

the standard account of Hemingway family history, Greg, then 19, got in trouble

over his use of a mind-altering drug.

THE incident prompted Ernest to lash out viciously at Greg's mother,

Pauline, in a bitter phone call. The story might have ended there, but

unbeknown to anyone, Pauline had a rare tumor of the adrenal gland that can

cause a deadly surge of adrenaline in times of stress. Within hours of the

phone call with Ernest, she had died of shock on a hospital operating table.

Ernest blamed his son for Pauline's death, and Greg, who was deeply

disturbed by the accusation, never saw his father alive again.

That basic chronology is not in dispute, but the biographer, Meyers, now

acknowledges that there was an element missing. It wasn't Greg's drug or

alcohol use that caused Ernest to berate Pauline shortly before she died, he

told the Tribune.

"I had to cover that over a little bit in my book, because I was very close

to the family and I really couldn't wound them ..." Meyers says. "But Ernest

knew about Gregory's cross-dressing way back in '51, and that was the cause of

the dispute; not, I think I called it, drug-taking or drinking." After his

mother's death, Greg, apparently depressed, interrupted his pre-med studies and

retreated to Africa, where he drank too much and shot elephants - at one point

18 in a single month.

It wasn't until nearly a decade later, in 1960, that he felt strong enough

to resume his medical studies and respond to Ernest's charges. He wrote his

father a bitter letter, detailing the medical facts of his mother's death and

blaming Ernest for the tragedy.

Within months, Ernest showed serious signs of mental illness. The next

year, he would kill himself, and once again Greg would wrestle with guilt over

the death of a parent.

"I never got over a sense of responsibility for my father's death," he

wrote in his memoir, "and the recollection of it sometimes made me act in

strange ways."

***

If Greg was devastated by the death of his father, he also confessed to a

profound sense of relief. As the body was lowered into the ground, he reflected

that never again would he disappoint the old man.

What followed was perhaps the most productive period of Greg's life. He

graduated from the University of Miami School of Medicine in 1964, and married

what was by now his third wife, Valery Danby- Smith, the mother of three of his

eight children. Living in New York and Montana, he practiced medicine, the

profession of his paternal grandfather.

"He was a physician at heart," says his eldest daughter, Lorian, 49, a

writer. "The passion was there." In 1976, he published his book about life with

his father. Compassionate but unflinching, it opened with an admiring

introduction by Norman Mailer and is still highly regarded by Hemingway

scholars.

Precisely when Greg's demons caught up with him is unclear, but by the

early 1980s, the storm clouds were gathering. Meyers, who spent a week with

Greg and Valery while researching his book on Ernest in 1983, recalls that

Greg's marriage was breaking up and he was acting in peculiar, and sometimes

reckless, ways.

"He was very good-looking. He was very smart. I mean, you could have some

interesting talks with him. He was also, always, very crazy," Meyers says.

By the early 1990s, Greg's finances were so precarious - he was routinely

spending every dime of the checks he received monthly from the family estate -

he at one point lived in his beat-up Volkswagen. Apparently considering a sex

change, he had gone so far as to have a single breast implant, leaving the

other side of his chest flat.

He and Valery had been divorced, and his medical license had been suspended

in both Montana and Florida - the reason is not known because officials in

Montana, where the licensing problems originated, say they have lost the

records.

But when he and Junkins, a Hemingway scholar and retired University of

Massachusetts English professor, began running into each other socially in

Miami in 1991, it wasn't his present problems that Greg wanted to talk about.

It was his past.

He told Junkins, who would later serve as best man at Greg's fourth

wedding, about the fit Ernest threw when he caught Greg cross-dressing as a boy.

"Gregory was 60 years old, and this is the first thing he tells me,"

Junkins says. "He says he never got over it: the raging wrath of his father."

Thirty years after his death, Ernest Hemingway was back in his son's life.

***

By 1995, the final showdown between father and son was well under way, with

Greg rejecting not only his father's hyper-masculine code of conduct, but

masculinity itself, in an act that some consider courageous and others depict

as the final, desperate act of an unbalanced mind.

For the most part, Hemingway lived as a man after his sex change. He had

the same deep voice, the same muscular build. Rather than adding a second

breast implant, he had the first removed at some point in the 1990s.

He stayed with his fourth wife, Ida Mae Galliher, a fine-featured blonde

who drove a Mercedes convertible and was much admired by Coconut Grove's

graying jet-setters. Florida records show the couple divorced in 1995, after

about two years of marriage, but friends say they continued to live together in

Ida's gated coral-rock cottage.

"He was a very heterosexual guy, I guarantee it," Junkins says. "He and Ida

weren't putting polish on each other's nails." Ida, who declined to be

interviewed for this article, told the Miami Herald shortly after Greg's death

that she and Greg remarried in Washington state in 1997.

Hemingway mostly went by the name Greg or Gregory in the Grove, where he

frequented the Taurus Ale House, a neighborhood bar and restaurant, in men's

attire.

"He'd hang out in the afternoon, drink beer with us and talk," recalls

Taurus regular Charley Brown, 62, a writer. "And he was just one of the guys."

Rumors about Greg's personal life did flourish, and occasionally he would be

spotted cross-dressing. But in resolutely artsy, often bizarre Coconut Grove,

Greg Hemingway wasn't the most unusual guy in the bar.

"Not by a long shot," Brown says.

Hemingway's apparent reluctance to let go of his male identity could be

explained by many factors, among them the potential for embarrassment. But it

does seem a remarkable coincidence that, in getting a sex change, Greg chose

perhaps the one path most likely to pain and embarrass his father - and then

went on living his life much as before.

It's also interesting to note that when he did assert his femininity, he

sometimes seemed more interested in creating a spectacle than completing a

process of sincere self-transformation.

Perhaps the most dramatic example of that occurred in 1995, when Hemingway,

then 64, boarded a Miami bus, made a series of sexual advances toward the male

driver and threatened to break his jaw.

When police arrived, Hemingway was standing outside an Amoco station,

dressed in women's clothing and talking incoherently. Pulling up his skirt, he

said to one of the officers, "Let me show you that I'm a woman." The police

officer reminded him he was in public and told him to put down his skirt.

Hemingway responded by kicking the cop in the groin. It took three police

officers to handcuff Hemingway, who pleaded guilty to a felony charge of

battery on a police officer, but was never convicted.

***

The Miami-Dade Women's Detention Center is a long way from the Miami of

snow-white sailboats and gated Spanish mansions where Greg Hemingway celebrated

the running of the bulls at the annual Pamplona Party in Coconut Grove.

A battered pay phone stands outside the center, a bland, four-story

building framed by scrub grass, a highway overpass and a series of rusty pipes

enclosed in a chain-link fence.

Inside, the faint smell of disinfectant lingers in a pale green lobby with

peach trim. A row of broad- shouldered, unsmiling women play volleyball in a

narrow courtyard.

Hemingway, who was examined by a corrections medical staff, was classified

as female and assigned here "basically because of his genital organs,"

according to Janelle Hall, a spokeswoman for the Miami- Dade corrections

department.

"It would have been an injustice to hold him in a male facility," she says.

Hemingway, who died of heart disease and high blood pressure on Oct. 1,

spent the last days of his life on the third floor, in a private cell used for

high- profile inmates. The room is 10 feet by 10 feet, with a steel cot and two

narrow windows.

Staff recall him as "a very big, robust, very learned sort of person," Hall

says. "He did not give us any problems." At the jail, his death was just

another in the long series of hard-luck tales common to the place. To the

outside world - his obituary, which referred to his sex change and various

psychological problems, ran in publications across the country - it may have

seemed a scandal and sensation.

But in Coconut Grove, where Hemingway was well known and well liked, it was

a tragedy, a tragedy that some say could have been prevented.

Standing outside the house where Ida Hemingway still lives, handyman Terry

Fox speaks of his friend Greg in the present tense as he fixes the automatic

gate Greg smashed with his car shortly before his death.

"I don't think they should do that to him, ya know?" he says of Hemingway's

incarceration. "We're real upset about that. I mean, the average burglar gets

out the next day."

Lorian Hemingway goes further, claiming that her father didn't receive

vital medication while in jail.

"I do not know to whom to assign blame," she says, "But I think his having

been incarcerated for five days on a bail of a mere $1,000 and having his life

end because he could not have the medication he needed is a criminal act,

outright." Ida Hemingway told the Miami Herald that she called the jail

repeatedly, but that she didn't bail Greg out because she thought he needed

help.

Hall declined to comment on whether Hemingway received his high blood

pressure medication in jail, citing inmate confidentiality. Larry Cameron,

director of operations for the Miami-Dade Medical Examiner Department, declined

to comment on medical details, saying Ida Hemingway had requested that the

family's privacy be respected.

Greg Hemingway apparently did not contact his friends, several of whom said

they would have been more than happy to supply the $100, or 10 percent,

required to secure his release on bond.

***

Guests cried openly at Greg's small, private memorial service in Coconut

Grove. Hemingway's children spoke of the good times.

"These kids adored him. It says a lot about Gregory," Junkins says. "They

know everything. Of course they do. You know, he was their father."

Exiting the turn-of-the-century Spanish mission church where the service

was held, glancing back at the twin splashes of hot-pink bougainvillea framing

the front door, it must have been easy for those who attended to think

comforting thoughts about God, nature and the afterlife.

But it's not at all clear that the deceased himself would have taken refuge

in such consolation.

If he had proved one thing during his long and torturous battle with his

father's shadow, it was that he, too, was a Hemingway: stubborn and

self-destructive, but also fierce and uncompromising.

Forty years before, he had considered voicing comforting cliches at his own

father's funeral, he wrote in his memoir.

He had envisioned the old man alive, aware and dreaming, a spirit united at

last with earth and sky.

But, he wrote, such visions seemed small to him, and their comfort shallow.

And his father would have considered such visions absurd.

"Atoms can't dream, Gig," he could hear his father say. "No use deluding

yourself, old pal."

Chicago Tribune is a Tribune Co. newspaper.

A Family History

IT'S SAFE to say there are few families as fascinating as the Hemingways. Here

is a brief look at some of the family members and their lives and their

problems:

Start, of course, with Ernest. Regarded as one of America's greatest

authors, he won a Pulitzer Prize in 1953 and the Nobel Prize a year later. His

adventures included driving a Red Cross ambulance during World War I, covering

the Spanish Civil War as a news correspondent and living in Africa, where he

went on countless safaris and survived two plane crashes. All pretty macho

stuff. But he also was the boy whose mother, Grace, dressed him and his older

sister, Marcelline, as twins. Some speculate that was the root of Ernest's

attitude toward women - he long resented Grace and refused to attend her

funeral, married four times and had countless affairs. He died in 1961, the

victim of a self-inflicted shotgun wound, after years of physical and mental

problems. He was 61.

Clarence Edmonds Hemingway, Ernest's father, took his own life in 1928.

Suffering from diabetes and depression and facing debts, he shot himself to

death with a Civil War pistol. He was 57 years old.

Grace Hall Hemingway, Ernest's mother, was a former singer and music

teacher. She was extremely protective of her first son. As he grew older, he

rebelled against her nurturing - and later against her criticism of his work.

To friends, he referred to her as "the bitch." She died in 1951 at 79.

Marcelline Hemingway was Ernest's older sister and the sibling to whom he

was closest. She maintained a famous correspondence with her brother for many

years. Marcelline died in 1963, two years after Ernest. She was 65.

Ursula Hemingway Jepson, Ernest's younger sister, having survived three

cancer operations, committed suicide with a drug overdose in 1966. She was 64.

Another sibling, brother Leicester Clarence Hemingway, 67, shot himself to

death in 1982 after a series of health problems.

Carol Hemingway Gardner, Ernest's youngest sister, was estranged from her

brother after he objected to her choice of fiance and she married the young man

anyway. She today is the last surviving Hemingway sibling.

Madelaine Hemingway Miller, nicknamed "Sunny," typed portions of her

brother's novel "A Farewell to Arms," and later played the harp with the

Memphis Symphony. She died in 1995 at the age of 90.

Jack Hemingway, Ernest's oldest son, had a pretty interesting life in his

own right. His godparents were Gertrude Stein and Alice B. Toklas, whom Ernest

had befriended in Paris in the '20s; his early days were recounted in his

father's "A Moveable Feast"; he was a decorated World War II veteran who spent

six months in a German POW camp; and he wrote several books, including one

about his father, and three on fishing. He died in 2000 of complications

following heart surgery. He was 77.

All of Hemingway's former wives are deceased. Martha Gellhorn, his third

wife, died most recently, in February 1998. Gregory's mother, Pauline Pfeiffer

Hemingway, died in 1951 at age 56 of an undiagnosed tumor.

Actress/model Margaux Hemingway, 41-year-old daughter of Jack, died of a

drug overdose in 1996. Her younger sister, Mariel, continues to appear in films

and on TV.

Hemingway's sole surviving child is son Patrick, born in 1928. He continues

to promote his father's memory as a member of the advisory board of the

Hemingway Foundation of Oak Park.

-Chicago Tribune

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