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Wine-pairing dinner at Jamesport Manor Inn

NORTH AND SOUTH

Jamesport Manor Inn, which earned a three-star rating last year, hosts a wine-pairing dinner on March 12 featuring wines from Wölffer Estate in Sagaponack. The cost of the North Fork-South Fork event is $70.

Chef David Intonato's menu includes hamachi carpaccio with a sea-urchin souffle; a peeky-toe crab galette; a salad with frisee, poached egg and Cabrales blue cheese; a Crescent Farm duck pot-au-feu with shaved black truffle; and a pastel de tres leches, with Oaxacan chocolate sauce. The dessert is paired with Wölffer's 2007 Late Harvest Chardonnay; the duck, with the winery's 2004 Estate Selection Merlot.

Dinner starts at 7 p.m. Reservations are required. Jamesport Manor Inn is at 370 Manor Lane, in Jamesport; 631-722-0500.

- PETER M. GIANOTTI


BETTER BISQUE

Finding excellent lobster bisque turns into a challenge on Long Island, as it does almost everywhere else. Just because we're surrounded by water and reach land's end in Montauk guarantees nothing.

I've had the tepid, brothy, floury, and sometimes ones without a hint of lobster. It has made me skeptical about ordering it except in the line of duty.

But on a busman's holiday at Legal Sea Foods, I tasted a winner. It didn't have the deep-coral color that you'll find in a stellar French restaurant. But it had the right flavor and the right texture, plus nuggets of sweet shellfish.

There are two branches of Legal on Long Island: in Nassau, at Roosevelt Field, 630 Old Country Rd., Garden City, 516-248-4600; and in Suffolk, at Walt Whitman Mall, 160 Walt Whitman Rd., South Huntington, 631-271-9777.

- PETER M. GIANOTTI


MAIN STREET BRUNCH WOWS

We've been a little star-struck lately with chef Michael Mignano, who owns the Main Street Bakery in Port Washington and wowed us just before Valentine's Day with a secret-recipe chocolate bar so good that Oprah raved about it on TV. While Mignano is busy making bread and pastries and about 70 of the chocolate Main Street Bars a day, he also serves brunch on Sunday from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.

A friend and I split the spinach and goat cheese frittata and the buttermilk blueberry pancakes and were seduced by the mouthful. Also on the menu are challah French toast with strawberries poached in maple syrup and sauteed pencil asparagus with poached eggs, served with melted Brie and fresh dill.

What's so nice about the bakery is that it has a SoHo feel to it, and food and baked goods a cut above the rest. Main Street Bakery is at 170 Main St., Port Washington; 516-304-5214.

- MARJORIE ROBINS


NO MORE EGG PIZZA

Boo-hoo, I'm so blue. And it's all because Jimmy's Pizza in Centerport stopped offering its amazing breakfast pizza (a crisp-crusted wonder topped with egg, cheese and crunchy, salty bacon). The pizza guy I spoke to blamed the state of the economy, adding, "It just didn't catch on."

- JOAN REMINICK

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