Yet there are still a few holdouts from days gone by. And they seem to be going strong:
Having just celebrated its 50th birthday, this granddaddy offers "one from column A, one from column B" family dinners. Flaming pu pu platters, moo goo gai pan, and pepper steak and lobster Cantonese are all accounted for.
Since 1967, the Wong family has owned this pagoda-topped landmark, where the veteran crew is on a first-name basis with much of the clientele. Old favorites abound: egg drop soup, spareribs, chicken with cashews and roast pork lo mein, to name a few.
HY TING, Riverhead
A Riverhead fixture since 1974, this dark and modest-looking place will soon undergo a physical makeover. Its menu, though, will retain all the classics, among them spareribs, roast pork lo mein and shrimp with lobster sauce.