Moby's arrived well after Memorial Day, relocating from Montauk into the sprawling space that has housed restaurants as different from each other as Spring Close House, Farmhouse and the Laundry.
And it's gathering crowds even as Labor Day signals the season's unofficial finale. Besides, wood-fired pizzas are forever.
You'll find very good ones here, including a satisfying number topped with eggplant and an even better one capped with coppa. The kitchen also sends out excellent grilled Montauk swordfish, finished with salsa verde; and tasty orecchiette pasta tossed with lobster meat, sweet corn, heirloom tomatoes and basil. Those heirlooms partner neatly with the burrata appetizer, too.
A root beer float dessert suits this noisy, partying spot, where you may dine indoors or alfresco on picnic tables. But as September starts, the blueberry parfait, with Balsam Farms berries, demands attention.
The white whale, of course, is the restaurant's symbol. No wonder reservations are so madly pursued.
Moby's, 341 Pantigo Rd., East Hampton; 631-527-5388.