Sunny, unpretentious and fairly priced, a mainstay in the neighborhood, serving fine New American fare.
Open for dinner every day, from 5 p.m. Lunch, Monday to Friday, noon to 3 p.m.
One-level main dining area.Website Email Add an event Correct this listing
388 has your number. The buoyant, New American eatery covers enough territory to satisfy almost everyone at the table. Sunny, unpretentious and fairly priced, it's already a mainstay in the neighborhood.
The new spot took over the address previously occupied by Riodizio Churrascaria, that protein-and-cholesterol capital of skewered meats. The decor has been updated and brightened; the long grills and side-dish displays gone; TVs added, noise level definitely heightened.
Carnivores still are welcome. And, yes, vegetarians have some choices, too, from a menu that balances homey fare and more contemporary productions.
Nibble on bruschetta while scanning the menu. The tasty tomato-and-basil version vies with a ricotta-and-prosciutto number. You win either way. "Thin-crust specialties" is the title given to semi-pizzas. Somewhere between tortilla and flatbread, they're surfaces for some very good toppings: fontina and prosciutto, Gorgonzola and potato, mozzarella and arugula. There's fine tuna tartare, spiked with anchovies and olives, atop house-made crostini. And tempura-style shrimp arrive crisply in a paper cone, ready for soy- and rice-wine dipping sauces. Two hefty sliders with sliced tomato could be a mini-main course. Lobster pot pie, very much like chicken except for the central character, is savory and appealing, under a gilded lid. The juicy New York strip steak: easily recommended. Order the "sea salted" French fries and the creamed spinach, too. For dessert, consider the banana split, cheesecake, cannoli and, for old time's sake, a vintage tortoni.
Crab-and-lobster cakes need more seasoning. Likewise, the modest chicken-and-ginger dumplings. "388 wings" benefit from whipped blue cheese, but they're overcooked. Routine sauteed chicken with basmati rice, artichoke hearts and sun-dried tomatoes. The standard-issue "classic Caesar" with jawbreaker croutons doesn't deserve the adjective. Bland fish and chips, slightly overdone chargrilled red snapper, too-sweet baby back ribs. Dry bread pudding.
THE BOTTOM LINE
Mix and match.