Feed Me

The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene.

Good, no-frills eating defines the new Madina Kabab House in Bethpage. The casual counter-serve offshoot of the nearby Madina Market features a simple Afghani kebab-centric menu.

 We began a recent lunch with potato bolani ($1.99), flaky pastry squares enfolding deftly spiced mashed potatoes. So very comforting. A chicken tikka platter ($8.99) starred two skewers of juicy marinated grilled white-meat chicken pieces.  Then, there were chicken and beef kofta kebabs ($8.99), with ground seasoned meatballs threaded onto skewers and grilled to savory succulence. Platters included brown rice pilafs strewn with carrots and raisins, along with perfunctory iceberg-cucumber-tomato-onion salads.

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The place has only a few tables and no decor to speak of. But for a fast and fine lunch — or takeout — it has what it takes to hit the spot.

Madina Kabab House is at 599 Hicksville Rd., Bethpage, 516-597-5222.