TODAY'S PAPER
Overcast 25° Good Afternoon
Overcast 25° Good Afternoon

Ristegio's review

Pan-seared Montauk yellowfin tuna is a recommended main

Pan-seared Montauk yellowfin tuna is a recommended main dish at Ristegio's restaurant in North Patchogue. Photo Credit: Yvonne Albinowski

LOCATION INFO

641 Rte.112 North Patchogue, NY 11772

631-731-3663

Cost

$$$ (Expensive)

Ambience

Good

Service

Excellent

Description

On a dim stretch of Route 112 in North Patchogue is Ristegio's, a restaurant that ... More »

Richard Lanza is throwing a homecoming party in North Patchogue.

Lanza, who starred at Blackstone Steakhouse in Melville, grew up in the Patchogue-Medford area. His first food job was in the neighborhood. And he's definitely back.

Lanza's stage is a big, brick-and-stone monument, rising on a dim stretch of Route 112. As a restaurant, it stands out like Vegas in the desert.

The name Ristegio's is a combination of the owners' names, as in Richard, Steven and Joseph Lanza. Inside, theirs is a sprawling, hard-surface, often noisy space, with two dining rooms, a sushi section and a centerpiece bar with four TVs so no major sporting event goes unnoticed.

One wall, with a window on the wine room, features enough stone-like facing to deplete Home Depot. The best way to describe the artwork: assertive. But there are subtler touches, too.

Most important, they stem from the professional service and the inviting food. General manager Andy Kormendi, who ran the long-gone, much-missed Louis XVI in Patchogue, expertly steers the staff here. And Lanza smoothly segues through New American, French, Italian and Japanese cuisines.

His sherried, coral-shaded lobster bisque is a refined opener. But equally recommended is the husky stew of Nueske's slab bacon and beans with brown sugar, tomato and pomegranate molasses -- a deluxe pig-out.

Pretty good tempura-battered artichokes are backed by lemon-garlic aioli. Crabcakes could be crabbier but get a boost from roasted-corn salsa and sauce rémoulade. A tasty flatbread with prosciutto, caramelized pear and Fontina cheese; or one with plum tomatoes, basil and mozzarella, could be shared while you're deciding the rest.

There's hefty, satisfying baked macaroni and cheese finished with Black Forest ham; and an outstanding main dish dubbed "stuffed pasta pillows," light, plump and savory packets with a four-cheese filling in a meaty, first-class spin on Bolognese sauce.

Chile-rubbed, bacon-wrapped pork medallions and the "8HR" braised short rib are equally generous. Roasted corn, edamame and purple-potato succotash support nutty, pan-seared diver sea scallops. Black forbidden rice buttresses respectable, sesame-crusted salmon; couscous and roasted tomato vinaigrette, pan-seared, rosy Montauk yellowfin tuna.

Ristegio's sends out traditional sashimi, sushi and sushi rolls. Notable choices include the fluke and yellowtail. The house's namesake roll combines tuna, yellowtail, salmon, and avocado; the 112 roll, spicy crabmeat, cucumber, shrimp and spicy mayo.

Artful cheesecake, flourless chocolate cake and Greek yogurt panna cotta with "brûléed" figs top the desserts.

Join the festivities.

More news

Sorry to interrupt...

Your first 5 are free

Access to Newsday is free for Optimum customers.

Please enjoy 5 complimentary views to articles, photos, and videos during the next 30 days.

LOGIN SUBSCRIBE