Great European train stations stir my wanderlust. In Munich, about to catch a train, I stand under the station's towering steel and glass rooftop and study the big schedule board. It lists a dozen departures. Every few minutes, the letters and numbers on each line change as, one by one, cities and departure times work their way to the top and then disappear. I'm surrounded by Europeans on the move -- businessmen, teenagers, families, porters pushing handcarts.
For many tourists, the pleasure of journeying along Europe's well-organized rail system really is as good as the destination. Train travel isn't as flexible as driving, but it's less stressful. I prefer to watch the landscape rather than fix my eyes on the road. On a train, I can forget about parking hassles, confusing road signs, bathroom stops and Italian drivers.
Do the math
A train traveler's biggest pre-trip decision is whether to get a railpass, point-to-point tickets or a mix of both. It pays to do the math by adding up the approximate ticket costs for your itinerary. European rail fares are based primarily on distance traveled, so if you'll be on the train for just short trips, point-to-point tickets are usually a better deal.
The more miles you'll cover on the train, however, the more likely it is that a railpass makes sense. The Eurailpass is the most common multicountry pass, and many countries sell railpasses good for use in their country only. Most railpasses give you a certain number of train travel days to use within a longer window of time (for example, any 10 days within a two-month period).
Online schedule sites can help with planning. Each country's national rail company has its own website, but the site operated by Deutsche Bahn, the German rail company, has schedules for virtually all of Europe (bahn.com).
All over Europe, ticket windows handle your ticket and reservation needs; or you can buy a ticket at a travel agency to spare yourself the long lines. Be sure, when necessary, that your ticket or railpass is validated before boarding. Many express trains require an advance reservation; it's smart to ask.
Wondering whether to splurge for first class? Nearly every train has both first- and second-class cars -- each going at precisely the same speed. First class is cushier, generally with three seats across and fewer passengers. Second class comes with four seats across and more people. But today's trains are so comfortable that the new second class feels as slick as the old first class -- at a third to half the cost.
No. 1 with a bullet
Nowadays, the old clackity-clackity rhythm of the rails has been replaced by the nearly silent swoosh of bullet trains. These superfast trains are making European rail travel more time-efficient than ever.
Take the speedy Eurostar train, which barrels between Paris and London in about 21/2 hours via the Chunnel. Within minutes of departure, the train is zipping at 180 mph across the French countryside. The train travels so fast that, where the tracks parallel the highway, the cars you pass seem to be standing still.
Sleeping while rolling down the tracks can save time and money. With night trains, you can easily have dinner in Paris, sleep on the train and have breakfast in Venice, Munich, or Madrid. Sleeping cars require a paid reservation beyond the regular ticket price, but for less than the cost of a simple hotel bed, you get your own bunk with clean linen. What you miss in scenery is more than made up for by the entire extra day you gain for sightseeing.
Across the Continent, train stations are being remodeled into gleaming transportation hubs. Whether old or new, each station is a temple of travel. Just pick a platform ... and explore Europe.