In a few weeks, New York's newest posh, hotel-based restaurant will begin turning out food at The Pierre on Fifth Avenue, under the direction of Le Cirque ringmaster Sirio Maccioni.
Shortly after that, Adour, Alain Ducasse's New York home at the St. Regis, will serve its last meals.
Time, then, for a preview and revisits to a few of the city's best-known dining spots, where, if you're inclined, you can stay for the night.
Filippo Gozzoli is a classic Italian chef who will serve classic Italian food. Expect braised beef cheeks and porcini risotto and, somewhat frighteningly, spaghetti carbonara with seafood.
Inside The Pierre, Sirio's interior takes inspiration from Federico Fellini's "La Dolce Vita." The carpeted room, narrow as a model's waist, features a long bar and photographs from Maccioni's heyday. If you're in one of them, you probably won't need a reservation.
WHERE 795 Fifth Ave.
INFO 212-940-8195, siriony.com
Jean Georges continues to offer a bargain $38 lunch (well, it's a bargain for food at this consistently high level). The offerings include sea scallops with caramelized cauliflower and a caper-
raisin emulsion, and sublime goat cheese gnocchi with baby artichokes, lemon and olive oil. The pea soup here, silken and simply spiked with Parmesan cheese, can make you swoon.
The four-course prix-fixe dinner is $118; the tasting menu is $168. Dinner dishes include sense-smacking licorice-braised sweetbreads with baby carrots, ginger and shiitake mushrooms, and turbot with bok choy, black bean vinaigrette and chervil.
WHERE 1 Central Park W.
INFO 212-299-3900, jean-georges.com
For five years, the St. Regis has been the only New York establishment where diners can sample the haute cuisine of Alain Ducasse, the multiple-Michelin-starred chef.
Adour offers a $125 five-course menu, along with a la carte classics such as lobster thermidor ($46) and Dover sole a la grenobloise ($65). Ducasse is at his best with vegetables, which he happily does as part of a $90 tasting.
Just don't wait: This very good restaurant will serve its final meals on Nov. 17.
WHERE 2 E. 55th St.
INFO 212-710-2277, adour-stregis.com
The Chambers Hotel in midtown is the site of David Chang's only New York restaurant that's not in the East Village. Ma Peche is also Chang's only proper Manhattan spot to use chairs with lumbar support.
High-rolling groups can order the $450 halal-style street meat package. More reserved patrons will opt for the $15 trout roe and a deeply musky hanger steak ($32).
The best dessert? Foie gras with sarsaparilla gel ($18). Tastes like root beer.
WHERE 15 W. 56th St.
INFO 212-757-5878, momofuku.com