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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene

Lemongrass in Oceanside: First bites

Tom kha gai, or chicken coconut soup, at

(Credit: Newsday / Joan Reminick)

It's midday at the attractive new Lemongrass Thai & Chinese Restaurant in Oceanside. And the place has me at the tom kha gai.

So often, the Thai chicken coconut soup turns out to be cloying, flowery. And filled with tough, stringy pieces of chicken. The version here, though, gets the classic Thai balance of sweet-sour-salty-spicy just right. And, on top of that, the sliced chicken is ultra-tender.

Less...

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Cinque Terre in Huntington Station: First bites

Cinque Terre in Huntington Station serves a fritto

(Credit: Newsday / Erica Marcus)

Cinque Terre, the long-awaited restaurant now in the former home of Panama Hatties, is a warm, traditional addition to Long Island's ever-growing number of Italian spots.

It's decorated with evocative photos of the Cinque Terre, five towns that cling to the dramatic coastline between Genoa and Pisa. But this Cinque Terre is more generally Italian than specifically Ligurian.

Cinque Terre...

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Open in New Hyde Park: Sushi Republic

Sushi Republic has opened in the New Hyde

(Credit: Newsday / Erica Marcus)

Sushi Republic has opened in the Hillside Avenue building that, until April, housed Ara Sushi & Grill, a pan-Asian restaurant noted for its Korean cuisine. Ara’s predecessor, Imperial Seoul (2010-13) also had a large Korean menu.

Sushi Republic’s menu looks to be about half sushi, with entrees ranging from $15 to $22, signature rolls around $12. The rest of the menu is a blend of Chinese,...

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Crabcake gyros at Greek restaurant in Floral Park

Pita Park is serving gyros, moussaka and grilled

(Credit: Pita Park)

Have you ever heard of a crabcake gyro? How about an Irish one with corned beef, spicy mustard and onions? Those are two of the gyro pita sandwiches ($6-$9.95) now on the menu of Pita Park in Floral Park.

The table-service Greek restaurant is co-owned by married couple Brittany and Mina Avlonitis. Brittany is the chef; her husband, who was born in Greece and worked at Crabtree’s Restaurant...

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Closed in Huntington: Chicken Coop

Grilltisserie chicken, plus sides, from the new Chicken

(Credit: Newsday/Joan Reminick)

Chicken Coop, a little Huntington takeout known for its Portuguese spin on chicken, has closed. It was under the same ownership as the Portuguese restaurant Fado, located a few blocks away.

Massive construction on an adjacent building had made the place virtually unreachable. Posted on the eatery’s Facebook page were these comments:

“Due to the enormous construction project, no parking...

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Fairway Market opens in Lake Grove near Smith Haven Mall

Hundreds of people waited in line to be

(Credit: Newsday / John Paraskevas)

Fairway Market opened its first location in Suffolk County Wednesday, in the DSW shopping center directly across from the Smith Haven Mall in Lake Grove.

At 50,000 square feet, the new Fairway is smaller than the Plainview store (55,000) that opened in 2001 and the Westbury store (68,000) that opened in 2012. It is Fairway’s 15th store in the New York metro area.

The new Fairway is less...

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New chef at Pentimento in Stony Brook

Massimo Fedozzi at Vero in Amityville. (Jan. 6,

(Credit: Yana Paskova)

Massimo Fedozzi, who earned accolades as chef at the now-gone Vero in Amityville and Palio in Jericho, is the new executive chef at Pentimento in Stony Brook.

Owner and long-time chef Dennis Young said that Fedozzi is in charge of the kitchen and will develop new menus for the popular restaurant, which earned a three-star rating in Newsday.

Young said he expected that the new menus will...

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The Arden in Port Jefferson opening Thursday

The Arden is a new, stylish spot to

(Credit: The Arden)

The Arden, a destination for dining, dancing, live music and entertainment, is slated to open Thursday in Port Jefferson.

The restaurant is offering a tapas-style menu, with dishes such as duck tacos, root-beer braised short ribs, flatbreads, sushi rolls and larger plates such as a 24-oz. Tomahawk rib-eye steak, fish and chips and herb-rubbed tuna.

From the bar menu: tuna nachos, pork...

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Lunch at Boomy's New York Deli in Plainview

Half a corned beef sandwich on the left;

(Credit: Newsday / Joan Reminick)

The high point of a recent lunch at Boomy’s New York Deli in Plainview was its pastrami sandwich ($9.99), starring properly peppery and fat-frilled meat.

But the deli, no longer kosher, came up short in several other respects: Flavorless matzo ball soup. A wincingly salty tongue sandwich ($11.49) that tasted mainly of cloves. (Cloves?) And fries ($4.29) previously frozen and characterless.

On...

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Knife sharpener makes house calls

Richard De Vito of Sunrise Sharpening of West

(Credit: Sunrise Sharpening )

Richard De Vito is taking his knife-sharpening act on the road. The owner of the West Babylon shop Sunrise Sharpening has duplicated his equipment and loaded it into a customized van. Most weekdays, he roams Long Island in search of dull blades.

De Vito, who opened Sunrise Sharpening in February 2014, charges $1 per inch of blade length. There’s an additional $1 charge for a serrated knife....

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