Drainage Problems? Get Well Soon
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Q. The drywell for our washing machine backs up a little,
usually after we've had a little bit of rain. I'm assuming the drainage area
surrounding the drywell is saturated. We've been in our house for 16 years, and
the drywell was in place when we moved in. I intend to replace it in the
spring. When I do replace it, are there any other products I can use to build
the new drywell other than cesspool blocks or a 55-gallon drum?
-Rich Scofield, Sound Beach
A. Rich, you need to enter the 21st century when it comes to drywells and
drainage systems. Using stacking blocks and steel drums for household waste
water went out in the 1970s. We're going to help you, but before you do
anything, contact the Suffolk County Department of Health Services (631-
852-2100). It offers a free pamphlet, "Home Sewage Disposal Systems in Suffolk
County," that covers standards for construction of sewage disposal systems for
single-family residences. That way, when you replace the drywell for your
washing machine, you'll have current information. While you're at it, you
should learn a little more about your septic system. If it was installed in the
1970s, there's a chance it was made of stacking cesspool blocks and could be
on its last legs. The Suffolk County Department of Health Services inspects
septic systems for new construction only, however, so check with the
department, as well as your town or village, about guidelines for installing a
drywell.
Many newer septic systems take both "graywater" and "blackwater" discharge.
Graywater is the term used for household discharge from washing machines,
sinks and dishwashers. Blackwater is household discharge from toilets. However,
homes like yours can have separate tanks for each kind of discharge. It's
common for one small drywell to handle the discharge from just the washing
machine.
Today's drywells are made from either precast concrete or durable
plastic.The precast models for graywater discharge generally are round, 4 feet
high and 4 feet in diameter, and weigh nearly 1,800 pounds. Jim Harris of
Harris Precast in Kings Park sells them for less than $200, excluding delivery.
Usually, "delivery" means to the street front of the installation location. So
you'll need heavy equipment - a tractor or loader - to move the precast
drywell.
The plastic drywells are sold by a couple of companies, including Cultec
(www.cultec.com; 203-775-4416) and Infiltrator Systems (www.infiltrator
systems.com; 800-718-2754). Gina Carolan, president of Cultec, says a Model
330 Recharger could be used for graywater discharge and is comparable in
capacity to a 4-foot-round precast drywell. The plastic models are much, much
lighter - the 330 weighs about 75 pounds - and can be moved by a couple of
people. Installation is similar to precast models. Visit the company Web sites
for installation and technical information. Cultec drywells are available
through Blackman Plumbing Supply.
Here are a couple of other Web sites that provide valuable septic tank
information: Septic-Info.com (www .septic-info.com) and the Septic Information
Web Site (www.inspect-ny .com/septbook.htm).
Q. I recently purchased a 75-year-old home in Middle Village that has
ornamental metal radiator covers. One of the covers has been painted with many
coats of enamel and is peeling in large chunks. Is there a paint-stripping
product I can use that is not terribly toxic?
-Toni Beers, Brentwood
A. Twin Chemicals Inc. in Woodstock, Ga., actually sells a soy-based paint
stripper called Pronto Supersoy ($280 for a 5-gallon pail). I'm not sure how
well it works, though. You can it buy online at www.twin-chemicals.com or by
calling 800-442-4958. The stripper should be used in temperatures above 60
degrees. If you've ever stripped paint from wood or metal, you know you're in
for quite a job. It might take as many as five coats of the soy-based stripper
to complete the job, according to the folks at Twin Chemicals.
Another nontoxic option might be to use washing soda, a sodium carbonate
powder that can be found in the laundry soap aisle at supermarkets.
According to Annie Berthold-Bond, author of "Better Basics for the Home"
(Three River Press, 1999), an effective paint stripper can be made by mixing
the white washing soda with water to make a thick paste. Spread the paste over
the metal covers and let it work into the paint for several hours, even
overnight. Wear rubber gloves and spread the paste with a plastic putty knife.
Keep the paste moist by misting it with water. The next day, rinse with water
and try peeling the paint.
You probably should spot-test this on a small area of the cover, perhaps on
the inside portion.
Another option would be to take the lids to a shop that specializes in
furniture repair and restoration. These shops often use several kinds of paint
strippers and probably have the necessary equipment to strip your covers to
bare metal.
A little warning: If you are stripping paint from woodwork, walls and
radiator covers, you're probably going to uncover some lead paint along the
way. Up until the 1960s, most paint contained lead, which can be harmful to
children and pregnant women. Lead paint test kits are available at home centers
and hardware stores.
Q. We had a new second-floor bathroom installed, including wall-to-ceiling
tile, a new tub and toilet. The tile installer told us to caulk around the tub.
I always hated caulking around the tub. It never looked good. Mildew always
seemed to grow and the caulk often needed replacing. I happened to mention this
to the plumber and another tile installer who were working at a friend's
house. They both said they do not caulk around tubs, where the top meets the
tile. They just said to make sure the grout line was in one piece. What should
I do?
-Caroline La Scala, Oakdale
A. Personally, I think the guys who told you not to caulk are crazy. Grout
is cement and sand and color. When hard, it has very little elasticity. When
your tub is filled with water and a bather, it moves ever so slightly. This
movement, as well as temperature and humidity changes, lead to the grout line
separating and the growth of mildew.
Here's what I do: I make sure to use a grout with a latex additive (for
elasticity) and then I always use a silicone caulk around the tub. Depending on
how often the tub is used, I might have to clean and replace the caulk line
two or three times a year. To get rid of any mildew that develops, spray the
area with a 50-50 mix of chlorine bleach and water and let it set. The mildew
will be gone the next time you shower or bathe. To remove old caulk, use
Caulk-Be-Gone by DAP (about $5 a tube). The gel softens the old caulk in as
little as two hours so it can be scraped away with a plastic putty knife. You
also can use a single-edge razor blade to scrape remaining caulk off the tub or
tile. When it's clean, rinse with water. I also use a hair dryer to blow the
gap free of debris and dry the area. When it's dry, lay a new bead of caulk.
Here's a tip: Create a seam for the new bead with masking tape. Run a strip
of tape along the bottom row of tile, about 1/16 inch above the tub edge. Run
another strip on the tub, about 1/16 inch from the tile. You'll be left with
an exposed area, about 1/8 inch wide. Carefully run the new bead of caulk
into the exposed area, then set the bead with a wet finger. Let the bead set
for a few minutes, then remove both strips of tape.
Although he cannot always respond, Gary Dymski welcomes letters. Write to
him in care of Newsday Home Work, 235 Pinelawn Rd., Melville, NY 11747-4250 or
e-mail gary.dymski@ newsday.com. Include your community of residence.
