Keep plugging away at stopping basement leaks
Other Columnists
During heavy rains - only in the winter - we get two
basement leaks. One is at a window well on the driveway side. The well fills up
with rainwater. To try to fix this, I placed a pipe into the ground in the
window well to act as a dry well. I filled the window well area with sand and
sealed the sill. On the inside, at the wood frame, I chopped away concrete
around the frame and put in water-plug cement. This seemed to help. But how
does the well still leak above the level of the sand? The other leak is
stranger. I have a 10-foot concrete patio against the house that is pitched
away from the foundation. Along the inside wall, there is a leak. How can water
travel with enough pressure to go through a concrete wall that is 10 feet away?
Ed Cybulski, Bethpage
First, I don't think you've found the best solution to your problem, but
I'll get to that. When water saturates soil, hydrostatic pressure is created.
As this pressure increases, cracks and crevices can be created in foundation
walls and basement floors. Water, seeking an escape, finds these openings.
Sometimes, water is absorbed into the concrete like a sponge; if foundation
cracks are above ground level, it's not unusual for water to seep through the
cracks. With the sloped patio, even though water is draining away from the
foundation, it is still saturating soil under the patio and against the
exterior of the foundation wall. This saturated soil is the real problem. In
winter, when the soil freezes, surface drainage is poor, and water rushes to
foundation openings.
Partially plugging the leaks, as you have done, doesn't keep water away
from the foundation. Over time, the concrete wall and floor can deteriorate.
Among the more vulnerable areas is the cove, which is the joint where the
foundation wall meets the floor. This joint, under continual hydrostatic
pressure, starts to separate.
Let's first assume you've done all the minor, inexpensive things to make
sure roof water drains away from the foundation. This would include correctly
grading the soil and installing leak-free gutters and downspouts. Since your
driveway and patio apparently rest against the foundation wall, it will be
difficult to create a drainage system by digging out soil from against the
walls. Try creating a drainage system around the patio, the exposed edge of the
driveway and the other "open" foundation walls. In this way, you'll reduce the
hydrostatic pressure around the entire foundation.
Dig out soil around the outline of the patio and driveway - get at least 2
to 3 feet below the slab - and install 4-inch perforated pipe in an envelope of
gravel. Do this around the exposed foundation walls, too. This could be a
difficult do-it-yourself job because you'll have to dig below the basement
floor.
Also, fill in the joint where the patio and driveway meet the foundation
walls with an asphalt-type expansion joint (available at masonry and building
supply stores). Properly sealing this gap will keep water from seeping directly
to the foundation wall.
My column of Feb. 12 dealt with basement flooding and foundation problems.
Another source is a publication by the University of Minnesota Extension
Service, "Moisture in Basements: Causes and Solutions" (Item FO-07051). To buy
the $2 pamphlet, plus $1.50 shipping, call 612-624-4900 or 800-876-8636. Or
read it online at www.extension.umn.edu/ distribution/housingandcloth
ing/components/7051-04.html.
Several years ago, ceiling tiles were installed on wood furring strips.
After many years, the tiles buckled. How can I fix this without taking down the
whole ceiling? The portion that buckled was not attached to furring strips.
Laura Napoleon, Little Neck
These acoustic tiles once were popular for hiding plaster flaws in
ceilings, but I haven't seen them used for quite a while. They aren't too
difficult to repair, however. You can trim pieces with a utility knife and
stick them directly to the ceiling with a quick-dry construction adhesive. If
necessary, nail wood blocks the same thickness as the furring strips to the
ceiling, then glue the tiles to the wood blocks. Several companies, including
Armstrong, make these tiles, which can be painted. For installation
information, visit www.armstrong.com/ resceilingsna/article5222.asp.
I live in an old house in which the bathroom window is over the tub. The
woodwork on the window eventually peels off. I have tried painting the wood
with boat enamel, but I still have the problem.
Marie Johnson, Floral Park
Perhaps after all these years, the wood just can't absorb any more paint. I
assume the main problem is the wood frame and molding around the window. Two
solutions: The first is to have a new vinyl window installed. This weatherproof
window, with vinyl molding and sill, won't need paint - ever. A friend of mine
did this recently, and the cost, including installation, was about $500. I
think this is the best way to go. Pulling out the old window will allow the
installer to check behind the window frame for mold or rotted wood. In the long
run, you'll be better off.
Another alternative is to frame the window with a new PVC trimboard made by
Azek or KOMA. These trimboards are made from the same material as plastic
pipe, and they don't rot, chip or crack. It's a neat product that can be milled
to look like wood. It comes in a flat white finish, and you don't have to
paint it.
Check with a lumberyard to see whether it can recommend a carpenter to
install new molding around the window.
E- mail: gary.dymski@ newsday.com.
