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The dish on Long Island's restaurant and food scene

Long Island restaurants: New reviews

Chef Richard Desmond's pumpkin tiramisu is boozy, airy

(Credit: Newsday / Joan Reminick)

In this week’s Newsday, Joan Reminick follows the dulcet tones of chef-operatic-tenor Richard Desmond to his new gig at Fargiano’s Pizza & Pasta in East Islip. The decor of the pizzeria is modest, but Desmond hits the high notes with a fragrant eggplant-basil bisque, delectable meat lasagna, made with hand-rolled pasta and a “pumpkin tiramisu with drifts of freshly whipped cream that is boozy,...

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Chef exits Gurney's in Montauk

The refurbished dining room is a refreshing highlight

(Credit: Gordon M. Grant)

Seth Levine no longer is the executive chef at Gurney's Montauk Resort & Seawater Spa. Jennifer Oz LeRoy also has departed as food and beverage director.

They were brought in with much fanfare earlier this year as the landmark resort, formerly Gurney's Inn,  continues to undergo a major overhaul under new management. Sucessors to Levine and LeRoy have not been named.

A spokeswoman...

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Jamesport Manor Inn's $29 fixed-price dinner

The Jamesport Manor Inn is tucked away on

(Credit: Kirsten Luce)

If you're headed out to the North Fork for a festival or a wine tour, know that the Jamesport Manor Inn is offering a $29 fixed-price "fall harvest" dinner on Wednesdays, Thursdays and Sundays from 4:30 p.m. to 6:30 p.m.

Appetizer choices may include a roasted beet salad with bacon, goat cheese, orange and roasted pistachios; or a mixed greens with shaved Parmesan cheese.

Main dishes...

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Open in Freeport: The Texas Ranger

The Texas Ranger is reborn in Freeport at

(Credit: Newsday / Joan Reminick)

The Texas Ranger was an on-and-off presence on the Freeport eating scene from the 1940s through the 1990s. Over the years, the place accrued a loyal following for two signature items, its chili and its  “Ranger burger,” topped with shredded cabbage, tomato and a “special” sauce.

Now, The Texas Ranger has launched at a new Freeport address under new ownership.

When I stopped in,...

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Shake Shack to open in New Hyde Park

Long Island's first Shake Shack opened in November

(Credit: Jin Lee)

Shake Shack, the wildly popular burger-and-shake chain, is opening a branch in the Lake Success shopping center. It will occupy the space that, until earlier this year, housed Deli King. Long Island’s first Shake Shack, in the Gallery at Westbury Plaza (in Garden City) opened in November 2012 and has been busy pretty much every since.

Edwin Bragg, Shake Shack’s director of marketing, said...

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Epic bun fail at Cheeburger Cheeburger

Cheeburger Cheeburger in Farmingdale now offers a honey-wheat

(Credit: Newsday / Erica Marcus)

Aside from using quality beef, here’s what a burger joint needs to do to completely satisfy me:

* Cook burgers to order

* Use good hamburger buns

* Have good, hand-cut French fries

* Serve good shakes

Bobby’s Burger Palace is, currently, the only major chain that’s batting 1000. Despite the fine fries, Five Guys won’t serve a rare burger and has no shakes (though it...

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Open at Smith Haven Mall in Lake Grove: Bonefish Grill

Interior of the new Bonefish Grill at Smith

(Credit: Bonefish Grill)

Bonefish Grill has opened at Smith Haven Mall in Lake Grove, joining the branch of the Florida-based seafood chain that debuted a few months back in Rockville Centre.

The capacious restaurant, located near Barnes & Noble, has seating for 295 people. It features an open kitchen and a large bar area with communal tables, as well as two private dining rooms.

On the dinner menu: Bang...

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Long Island chefs join in New York City Burger Bash

Chef Ralph Perrazzo is the owner of BBD's

(Credit: Newsday / Alejandra Villa)

Three Long Island chefs will be among the participants in a "burger bash" at the New York City Wine + Food Festival, which starts Thursday and goes through Sunday.

Ian Russo of Plainview's Dirtyburger, Ralph Perrazzo of BBD's in Rocky Point and Sag Harbor's George Hirsch, host of "George Hirsch Lifestyle," will take part in the Friday burger session, hosted by Rachael Ray, from 7 to 10 p.m....

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Grillmark in Albertson: First bites

A combination of chicken and pork gyro is

(Credit: Newsday / Joan Reminick)

Grillmark, a sleek new counter-serve eatery, occupies the Albertson strip mall spot that last hosted Prime Burger and, before that, Deli on Rye. Here, the rule is healthy Mediterranean-style eating. Grilled skewered meat, poultry and fish – called “sticks” – share the menu with salads, side dishes and cold-press juices. On a recent visit, I found moderate prices and a level of satisfaction far beyond.

What...

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Portuguese wine dinner at A Taberna, Island Park

Patrons dine at A Taberna, a Portuguese restaurant

(Credit: Newsday / Robert Mecea)

A Taberna, the seven-year-old Portuguese restaurant on Austin Boulevard in Island Park, is hosting a dinner Oct. 22 that highlights the wines of Herdade do Esporão in Portugal’s Alentejo region. Chef Wilfredo Acosta has composed a menu both gutsy and refined:

To start: Herdade do Esporão Sparkling White

Grilled shrimp, clams Portuguese and Portuguese sausage

Arco do Esporão Red

Swordfish...

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