July 24, 2008
Chain Link Fence Repair
THERE'S NO NEED for a sagging, rusting chain link fence. Repairs are relatively simple, and replacement parts are readily available through most fence companies.
So why are so many fences out of shape? Homeowners are intimidated, says Kelly Ralph, a manager at Pipe-Line Fence in Smithtown. They don't realize how simple the repairs really are, she says.
"We get lots of calls from homeowners for repairs," says Ralph, who has worked at Pipe-Line for 15 years. "Because of insurance rates in our industry, the hourly labor rate for what can be a minor repair tends to be very high. So we often tell homeowners - then show them - how they can make the repair themselves."
Ralph also says Pipe-Line staff can help homeowners identify replacement parts. She suggests that homeowners bring along damaged parts when shopping, and that they know the size of pipe (the posts and the top rail) used to build the fence. In most cases, the posts are 2 1/2 inches in diameter and rails are either 1 3/8 or 1 5/8 inches in diameter. In fencing, posts and rails are measured for outside diameter.
A chain link fence basically is a piece of metal fabric stretched across a row of posts. Tension bands and brace bands, which attach to the end posts, help keep the fabric taut. Top rails are linked to posts by rail loops, and end posts are finished with post caps. Along the rails, the fencing is attached with tie wires.
One repair tip is to check the hardware on your fence often. Nuts and bolts used to hold bands can loosen, and tie wires along the rails can become detached. This can cause the fencing to sag. When tightening or replacing bolts and tie wires, have a helper stretch the fence back into place. If neither you nor your helper is strong enough, a come-along - a pulley device used to stretch fencing in installation - can be purchased or rented. This device should be used to stretch long runs of fencing, and a tension bar is placed in the middle of the run to help with the process. For short runs (10-20 feet), try stretching by hand with the help of heavy-duty nylon cable ties. Once all the bands are in their proper places and the bolts have been tightened, the cable ties can be removed.
Before making your repair, check a portion of fence that is intact for correct placement of bands and caps. Where fencing is attached to an end post, the construction is pretty standard. The post features two brace bands, one at the top, just under the post cap, and another at the bottom. The top brace band connects the top rail and the end post with a rail end cup. The bottom brace band usually holds a tension wire in place. This wire runs along the entire bottom row of fencing. The three middle bands along the end post are called tension bands. They attach to a thin tension bar. This bar is parallel to the post and is woven into the fencing.
One common request Pipe- Line receives from homeowners is to replace a damaged top rail, Ralph says; usually, a fallen tree has caused the damage.
The rail can be removed using a hacksaw. Cut the rail into a couple of smaller pieces, then pull it out of the fencing.
Determine the length of the replacement rail (measure between the end posts). To get as close a match as possible, bring a piece of the old rail with you to the fence supply store. Some manufacturers have rails that fit together for longer runs. Other manufacturers make sleeves that allow rails to fit together. You can cut to fit using a hacksaw.
To replace the rail, remove the post cap, brace bands and tension bands from one end and slide the rail through the rail caps. The ends of the rail attach to rail cups, which bolt to brace bands. Attach the pieces, but do not overtighten. Stretch the fence back over the posts. Finish by slipping the tension bar into the fencing and attaching the tension bands. Use new tie wires (the old ones might be brittle) and check that all hardware is tight.
When buying parts, look to see if you can identify the manufacturer or find the name of the installer. It's a good bet the installer will be able to sell you replacement parts.
A caveat: Digging without knowing the location of underground power and gas supply lines can be dangerous. Most utility companies help homeowners and contractors locate these lines free of charge. On Long Island and in Queens, homeowners can call Before You Dig at 800-272-4480 to have their underground power and gas lines marked before excavation takes place. To be safe, make this call about 10 days before work is to be done.
Copyright © 2008, Newsday Inc.
