How to make a Cubano sandwich

Every now and then, I crave a really good sandwich. I admittedly don’t eat many sandwiches these days. Maybe that makes me appreciate, and occasionally crave them, even more. It should come as no surprise, then, that the other day when I was making pork tenderloin for dinner, all I could think about was what a mighty fine Cubano the leftovers would make. So, I did what any overly hungry person would do and cooked two tenderloins instead of one.

First, a word about Cubanos: A Cubano is a pressed sandwich that is generally filled with sliced pork, ham, cheese, and pickles, then pressed and grilled. (I neither have nor want a panini press: I simply cook the sandwich under the weight of a cast iron skillet.)

Cuban bread, shaped like a wide baguette, is ideal. The soft, slightly sweet interior and crusty exterior add great flavor and texture. But I’ve also used Italian bread, which squishes down nicely when pressed and has a slight sweetness to it as well.

Purists might gasp at my use of low-sodium ham, but there is plenty of saltiness in the sandwich from the pickles, mustard, and cheese, and I see no reason to consume even more. Similarly, a traditional Cubano is made with pork leg or shoulder, but I use a quick-cooking pork tenderloin which is not as rich, but lower in fat. If you plan well, you can throw an extra tenderloin on the sheet pan for dinner one night, and use it within two or three days for your Cubanos.

Cubanos

1 12-ounce pork tenderloin

¼ cup yellow mustard, divided

½ teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon ground cumin

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 garlic cloves, lightly crushed

1 (10 to 12-ounce) baguette Cuban bread, or 4 large Cuban rolls*, split

4 ounces thinly sliced Swiss cheese

6 ounces low sodium deli-sliced ham

12 “sandwich style” pickle slices

1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Coat a baking sheet pan with cooking spray.

2. Combine the pork, 1 tablespoon of the mustard, garlic powder and cumin in a bowl. Add the pork tenderloin and toss to coat. Transfer to the sheet pan and roast until a thermometer inserted in the center of the thickest part reads 145, about 23-25 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and allow to rest 5 minutes before cutting across in thin slices.

3. While the pork roasts, combine the olive oil and smashed garlic in a small saucepan and place over medium heat for 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow the mixture to sit at room temperature.

4. Spread the cut side of the bread with the remaining 3 tablespoons of mustard. Build the sandwiches: layer half the cheese, pork tenderloin, ham and pickle slices on the bottom halves of the bread. Top with the remaining cheese and close the sandwiches. If you are using a baguette, slice it across into four even pieces.

5. Brush the outside of the sandwiches lightly with the garlic oil. Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium and add the sandwiches (work in batches if necessary). Top the sandwiches with a heavy skillet (such as cast iron) and press down to help them flatten. Cook 4 to 6 minutes per side, or until the bread is golden and crisp and the cheese is melted.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS