Best restaurants in Greenport: Critics' picks

Greenport beckons diners today as readily as it used to lure whalers in the 19th century. The New England-y hub on the North Fork has undergone a boomlet of restaurants, either new or remade, during this decade. Enjoy the harbor view, take in the antique carousel in Mitchell Park and make the rounds on Main Street and Front Street. When your appetite calls, here are some eateries to visit.

Anker

47 Front St.

Anker goes full steam ahead on local fish and a gill-to-tail ethos that yields lemon-rosemary fish collars and swordfish bone marrow. Mussels mingle with big chunks of roasted fennel and leeks, lots of fresh dill and parsley and a broth made with smoked fish stock, caramelized plums and black pepper. Shareable big plates include grilled whole black sea bass and hickory-smoked lamb brisket. But you can get a lobster roll, New England clam chowder, fish and chips and a locally-focused raw bar, too. In fine weather, dine on the roof overlooking Greenport harbor. More info: 631-477-1300, ankerny.com

Green Hill Kitchen

48 Front St., Greenport

Barbecue with a side of live music comes in this two-story space. The meat-centric place in the style of a German beer hall serves housemade smoked sausages, steaks, roast chicken and burgers at rustic wood tables. Booths are comfortable for family and friends. A large bar encourages socializing. More info: 631-477-4900, greenhillny.com

Lucharitos

119 Main St.

The rollicking taco and tequila bar named for the colorful Mexican wrestlers known as luchadores. Their fearsome countenances adorn the walls while terrific tacos adorn the plates. Filled with meat, fish, shrimp or even mushrooms, they come cradled in soft-corn tortillas and topped with salsa verde, pickled radish, chopped onion and cilantro. Long Island duck stars, carnitas style, in nachos and quesadilla. More info: 631-477-6666, lucharitos.com

Bruce & Son

208 Main St.

The modern breakfast-brunch-lunch spot that uses as much local produce as possible. Dishes include spiced apple pancakes with real maple syrup, gooseberries and seeds; egg sandwiches and a pastrami burger. More info: 631-477-0023, bruceandsongreenport.com

1943 Pizza Bar

308D Main St.

Matt Michel started off as an itinerant pizzaiolo, driving his mobile "Rolling in Dough" wood-burning oven around Long Island. Then he set up shop in Greenport's Stirling Square and named his pizzeria after the 1943 K-6 International Harvester truck that had once been his only place of business. This casual spot — with tables both inside and out — is a favorite of locals and visitors. Try red or white pies in myriad combinations, or build your own from toppings that include hot cherry peppers, basil pesto and buttery mashed potatoes. More info: 631-477-6984, rollingindoughpizza.com

Kon Tiki

437 Main St.

Taking summer residence in the boutique Gallery Hotel, the Asian-fusion restaurant delivers diversely with flair. The choices include tuna poke, ceviche, noodles and kimchi fried rice crowned with a sunny-side-up egg. More info: 631-477-4007, kontiki-gp.com

Ellen's on Front

38 Front St., Greenport

Chef Jennie Werts' full-service restaurant in downtown Greenport serves up American comfort food with Asian and Latin twists. In addition to her famous sweet tea-brined fried chicken, the menu includes Korean fried duck wings and General Jennie's Cauliflower with a sweet and spicy chili sauce. More info: 631-333-2743, ellensonfront.com 

Claudio's

111 Main St., Greenport

Perhaps the most recognizable landmark in town, this historic group of Greenport restaurants was purchased by new owners in 2018. Patrons can enjoy the renovated first and second floor of Claudio's Restaurant, which includes the restored 1920s bar downstairs, a wine cellar for private dinners, and a new pizza outpost. Claudio's Waterfront features new bar seating and a new stage for live music as well as a retractable pergola. The changes aren't only cosmetic. The wharf has been rebuilt with updated docks and bulkhead. The restaurant's new culinary program emphasizes local and seasonal produce along with North Fork-brewed beers, local spirits and wines. More info: 631-477-0627, claudios.com

D'Latte Cafe

218 Main St.

At this Greenport institution, you'll find classic French pastry (try the croissants and Key lime tarts), fresh Italian gelato, good old American muffins and scones, well-executed sandwiches and soups. Grab a table outside or, if it's open, in a backroom that used to be the insurance office of one Joseph L. Townsend. It's now a combination salon-museum with old prints and maps depicting Greenport's history. More info: 631-477-4060, dlattecafe.com

Olive Branch Restaurant & Café

120 Front St.

The ambitious eatery-market took over three storefronts in the shopping center across Front Street from Mitchell Park. The menu blends traditional Turkish recipes with French, Italian, Greek and American influences. There's hummus, baba ghanoush and stuffed grape leaves, but roasted carrots star in one of the tarators, a yogurt-based appetizer. In fine weather, Olive Branch Café offers outdoor seating in the brick-paved plaza. Tables are shaded by giant umbrellas, and the charmingly mismatched dishes are served on huge brass trays. More info: 631-333-2444, olivebranchgreenport.com

Stirling Sake

477 Main St.

Chef-owner Yuki Mori's rice wine list hopscotches through multiple styles and is dotted with unusual choices, such as an earthy, gently sweet sake from Hiroshima called Kamoizumi Kome Kome. The sushi bar focuses on omakase (chef's choice), but before you dive into raw fish, don't overlook the izakaya-type snacks. Kaburamaki, or slivers of salmon, shiso and avocado wrapped in paper-thin turnip, is dotted with spicy miso sauce; if tempura cod is a special, grab it. Ramen, udon and donburi (rice bowls) round out the menu. More info: 631-477-6782, stirlingsake.com

Little Creek Oyster Farm & Market

37 Front St.

The North Fork is Long Island's U-pick capital; now it boasts the Island's first U-shuck. At Little Creek Oyster Farm & Market, you are supplied with a kit containing a few oyster knives and a knife-proof glove and offered instruction in the art of shucking oysters. Owners Ian Wile and Rosalie Rung also own Little Creek Oyster Farm, which is raising oysters in Hog Neck Bay in Southold. The market features these mollusks, as well as oysters and clams (and pickles, beer and wine) from other local producers. More info: 631-477-6992, littlecreekoysters.com

American Beech

300 Main St.

The gracious, beech-shaded structure that anchors Stirling Square has been completely overhauled and five luxurious guest rooms have been installed on the building's second floor. There's indoor and outdoor seating for dinner and weekend brunch; the New American menus encompass seafood, steak and creative vegetarian dishes. More info: 631-477-5939, americanbeech.com

Greenport Creamery

142 Main St.

More than 20 ice cream, yogurt, Italian ices and nondairy ice cream flavors are on offer. All products are made in house, many incorporating local ingredients such as honey, apples and strawberries. A loyalty program, where every dollar spent earns you points toward a free ice cream, will be appreciated by repeat customers. More info: 631-333-2818, greenportcreamery.com

Aldo's

103-105 Front St.

When Aldo Maiorana started roasting beans in Greenport, many of Long Island's artisan roasters still weren't old enough to drink coffee. Since 1987, Aldo's has had numerous incarnations (even a sushi bar), and has moved back and forth across Front Street a few times. The hours are inconsistent, but here's what hasn't changed: Aldo's serves some of the best coffee and biscotti you'll ever have. More info: 631-477- 6300, aldoscoffee.com

The Frisky Oyster

27 Front St.

Chef-owner Robby Beaver's cooking makes lavish use of local produce and fish. Specialties include oysters "friskafella" with garlic-infused spinach, chipotle and Parmesan aioli, and a dessert billed as "the best Key lime pie." The hip dining room makes for a romantic meal, with nary a tacky fish net or lobster trap in sight. More info: 631-477-4265, thefriskyoyster.com

Brix & Rye

308A Main St.

Talk about an underground location. In the basement of the building adjacent to 1943 Pizza Bar, Matt Michel and master bartender Evan Bucholz have created a convivial speakeasy specializing in craft beers and local wines, small-batch whiskeys, homemade mixers and live music. You can also order a pizza from upstairs. More info: 631-477-6985, brixandrye.com

Crazy Beans

2 Front St.

Occupying the corner where the Coronet luncheonette reigned for decades, the new resident offers sufficiently homey fare so anyone in need of a nostalgia chaser will be content. Expect ample omelets, oatmeal, breakfast burritos, egg sandwiches, French toast, "cheesy" biscuits, corned beef hash and the like. Then, in the afternoon, segue to lunch wraps, Reuben and Cubano sandwiches. More info: 631-333-2436, crazybeansrestaurant.com

Noah's

136 Front St.

Noah Schwartz's seafood restaurant is both a neighborhood magnet and destination spot. The look is slightly industrial, very sleek and in fine weather the dining room spills onto the wide sidewalk of Greenport's main drag. Among recommended dishes: Long Island clam chowder, crab-stuffed deviled eggs, Tasmanian red crab tacos, warm lobster roll, and fish and chips with Atlantic cod and Greenport Harbor beer batter. More info: 631-477-6720, chefnoahs.com

Billy's by the Bay

2530 Manhanset Ave.

This casual spot prepares plenty of shellfish, from steamers and oysters Rockefeller to oyster tacos and lobsters up to 4 pounds. Lobster rolls, hot or cold, are available. And if you're on patrol for Cajun-spiced flounder, Billy's has it. More info: 631-477-8300, billysbythebayrestaurant.com

First and South

100 South St.

The casual bar and grill emphasizes local produce and wines. Dine inside or outside on the wide porch and try the accurately described "really good burger" or South Street chowder (with smoked cod, applewood bacon, potatoes and clams), and don't pass up the fine, hand-cut fries with housemade ketchup (Heinz available on request). More info: 631-333-2200, firstandsouth.com

Alpina

45 Front St.

This sliver of a restaurant-wine bar devotes itself to the gastronomy and viticulture of Switzerland, whence comes its owner, Christoph Mueller, and the far north of Italy. Chef George Musho serves a beef tartare made with meat from the prized ancient Piedmontese breed, housemade Swiss sausage, tagliatelle with duck confit ragu and Wiener schnitzel which, come to think of it, is pretty much the same as veal Milanese. Don't miss the walnut-rich Alpine tort. In addition to little-seen Swiss vintages, Alpina’s wine list is a great introduction to the wines of the Piedmont, which include some of the world’s greatest, Barolo and Barbaresco; the most drinkable, Barbera and Dolcetto; and the sparklers Asti and Brachetto. More info: 631-477-2600, alpinany.com