Peruvian restaurant Candela Bistro opens in Hicksville

Candela Bistro, a chic new Peruvian restaurant, has opened in Hicksville. It takes over the South Oyster Bay Road space that had been the gluten-free Jac’s Bakeshop & Bistro.

Candela Bistro is the third restaurant from this family of restaurateurs. La Candela Restaurant, on South Broadway in Hicksville, opened in 2008; a second La Candela opened in West Hempstead in 2012. The first two locations, said partner Elvin Paulino, concentrate on fish and, in particular, Peruvian ceviche. The new Candela Bistro focuses on meat.

Rotisserie chicken, a Peruvian specialty, is served here whole ($36 with three sides), halved ($16 with fries and salad) or quartered ($11 with fries and salad). You can also get chicken deep-fried, grilled, skewered or pulled ($14 to $18). The menu also features steak, ribs and something called the Parilla Bistro for two: steak, ribs, pork chops, sausage, chicken and beef heart plus two glasses of wine, $56.

There are also ceviches and tiraditos — both made with citrus-marinated raw fish, the latter a little closer to sashimi — and a few other seafood dishes, plus pastas and chaufa, the Peruvian take on fried rice. Only a handful of menu items top $20.

Paulino’s wife Elizabeth is the driving force behind the décor and the menu; most of the recipes are from her family in Ica, Peru. Elvin, originally from the Dominican Republic, worked for many years in Glen Cove at La Pace (and, later, La Pace with Chef Michael) alongside his father, the pasta cook, and his brother who was, like Elvin, a waiter.

Candela Bistro is at 600 S. Oyster Bay Rd., Hicksville; 516-342-9165, candelabistrony.com