Food Street, Hicksville

In just a few months' time, the new Soni Centre strip mall in Hicksville has become a suburban community hub. The parking lot was packed during a recent evening and much of the commotion was centered around the first Long Island location of a beloved Pakistani street food chain. Food Street originated in Secaucus, New Jersey, in 2024 and now has four locations and a rapid franchising expansion plan. Nearly every table seemed to have a bulbous color explosion called the gappa chaat, a giant puffed wheat cracker as big as an orange, filled with all manner of spicy and yogurty sauces and starches. The idea is to crack open the delicate mound with your fork, and let the potatoes and chickpeas spill out. The halal menu is short and concise, with not many more than a dozen food items, most of them burgers, paratha rolls and snacky chaat street foods. Food Street also served what may be the best spicy chicken sandwich on Long Island.

The Bay Butcher, Oyster Bay

The Bay Butcher, a new butcher shop from the L'Etoile restaurant team, in Oyster Bay.

Oyster Bay residents may have noticed that the space next to L’Etoile, once used as its storage space, as well as a Max & Mina's pop-up last summer, has sprung back to life. The restaurant’s executive chef saw an opportunity for the space that the Milanas — the family behind L’Etoile and Stellina restaurants — couldn’t refuse: The Bay Butcher, a new meat shop, debuted in June. Behind the counter is executive chef Bryan Dedcovich, who has been cooking professionally for more than 20 years, alongside butcher Angelo Monticello, who spent the past seven years of his career cutting meat for Iavarone Bros. in Woodbury; Uncle Giuseppe’s before that. The beef is sourced from Omaha, via Allen Brothers, and ranges from 28 to 60-day, dry-aged prime to regular prime to black Angus. Monticello cites his biggest sellers as A-listers like rib eye, porterhouse, sirloins, and T-bones that they are dry-aging in house.

Tulum Taco Stand, Long Beach

Tulum Taco Stand has opened on the Long Beach boardwalk, adding a bit of Mexican flair to this summer's beach days. The stand at 198 Boardwalk is the takeout component attached to owner Nicolas Geeraerts' soon-to-come high-end Mexican steakhouse, Hacienda Tulum. The stand is serving a small menu of six taco flavors, six playa bowls, churros and beverages, such as frozen margaritas, from a walk-up window on the boardwalk.

The Local Table, Syosset

One might think the team behind luxe omakase spots 236 in Syosset, House of Yoshin in Huntington, Sora in Stony Brook and the growing Kashi and SUP empires, Japanese and Vietnamese respectively, didn’t need another restaurant to manage. And yet, The Local Table opened in Syosset in June, the WH Group’s latest high-end spot, this time with a focus on local seasonality rather than Japanese whiskey and omakase. The summer menu, which will change often, according to Steven Tsang, one of the primaries of WH Group, is wrapped in a green ribbon that opens into a three-sided spread spanning snacks, starters, small plates, mains and vegetables — which include wild mushrooms, grilled cabbage and a farmers market selection. And while it’s not a study in rigid seasonality, chef Isaac Olivo, a Relais & Châteaux chef whose most recent tenure was at Cape Cod’s Chatham Inn, is creating some innovative, tasty plates.

Bread and Butter Market, Riverhead

Bread and Butter Market, a compact shop in Riverhead, is poised to meet any and every takeout, grocery and retail challenge. Need pancakes for breakfast, a pressed panino for lunch, a grab-and-go salad for dinner? Or are you looking for a loaf of sourdough, a gluten-free muffin, a well-pulled espresso or a scoop of homemade gelato? Perhaps you need a box of Saltines or Inés Rosales olive oil tortas or brownie mix or Special K, a can of beans, a frozen pizza, a truffled salami or a package of pasta. You ran out of laundry detergent or Benadryl. You are on your way to a birthday party and you need a gift (how about a candle?), a gift bag and a card. You forgot diapers, a toothbrush, a beach tote. Chef Marco Pasos runs the kitchen and presides over the deli counter, where sandwiches range from a simple BLT to the Iron Pier Hero (prosciutto, salami, pepperoni, mortadella, roasted peppers, arugula and mozzarella on a semolina roll) and the Dune Panino (vegan meatballs, marinara, melted mozzarella and Parmesan on a panino roll). His chicken salad already has a following as do the "pop-top parfaits," deconstructed desserts — such as banana cream pie or strawberry shortcake — whose components are layered into a transparent pop-top "can."

Low Tide Bean, West Babylon

West Babylon's new Low Tide Bean opened at the former South Swell Taco spot.

A new waterfront cafe, Low Tide Bean, opened in West Babylon just in time for the summer rush. The Bergen Avenue cafe connected to the Bergen Docks is a sister outpost to four Bean Coffee Shops, in Babylon, Bay Shore, Sayville and North Babylon. Co-owner Julia Lagerstedt worked at the Babylon spot for six years before opening Low Tide Bean in the former South Swell Taco location. The space is open for outdoor dining only, with tables lined along the water. The menu includes classic deli breakfast favorites, such as bacon, egg and cheese sandwiches, acai bowls, overnight oats and bagels. There are also muffins and cookies for those who prefer a sweet treat. Lunch options include a double patty smashburger with fries, pickle brine wings and chicken tenders and fries.

Benvenuti Salumeria, Manhasset

Bevenuti opened for business in June after three years of planning. It’s a tiny shop packed to the rafters with provisions of the highest quality, from tuna fillets packed in oil and frozen pizzas direct from Naples to house-roasted long hots (peppers) and, of course, lots and lots of salumi (Italian cured meats). It’s a passion project for its two owners, Bruno Carusone and Luca DiCiero. They hooked up with manager Nino Gagliardi, chef-owner of the well-regarded Brooklyn trattoria Peperoncino (2004 to 2018) after which he managed locations for Felice and Il Mulino. Gagliardi and his team prepare eggplant Parmesan in the Southern Italian style (not individual cutlets of eggplant, but a layered casserole cut into portions for serving), lasagna, pollo con patate (roast chicken with potatoes), broccoli rabe with sausage, farro salad. He has also designed 18 sandwiches including the Rustichella (pancetta, smoked provola, pickled mushrooms and arugula on focaccia), the Campania (salami, provolone, and marinated eggplant on baguette) and the vegetarian Orticella (grilled zucchini and eggplant, sun-dried tomato, stracciatella on seven-grain bread). If those sound promising, consider that they all come on bread from Manhattan’s great Sullivan Street Bakery. That commitment to quality underlies every item in the store. Many are produced in Italy — pasta from Mancini, Garofalo, Dii Martino; tomatoes from Mutti, La Fede and Rega; olive oil from Diamante Verde and Lorenzo (Sicily), Guglielmi and Ogliarola (Puglia); prosciutto di Parma and a range of great cheeses such as pecorino and scamorza, Fontina and Gorgonzola.

Novah, Great Neck

Here’s hoping the third time’s the charm. The Pashalis family, operators of about two dozen Mediterranean restaurants, have taken over the old Seven Seas Diner location in Great Neck. And, according to Dean Pashalis, they believe their plan will succeed where two others — Paros Grill and Americana Eatery & Bar — have failed. Among the family’s venues are the Greek Anassa Taverna (in midtown and downtown Manhattan, and Astoria, Queens) and Dear Margo, which opened in March on the Upper East Side. Pashalis said that the menu at Novah would be very similar to that of Dear Margo, focusing on the Levantine traditions of the Eastern Mediterranean. Chef Efraim Naon, who will oversee both restaurants, has an impressive resume that includes Taboon, a trailblazing Middle Eastern restaurant that opened in the Theater District in 2004, as well as Motek and Barbounia.

Elisha, Great Neck

The chicken schnitzel challah sandwich is the dish to order at Elisha in Great Neck.

There's grocery store hummus, and then there's this hummus. Silken and nutty from the tahini, the chickpea spread is spiked with a vibrant green zhoug sauce of peppers and herbs. The spicy spread slathers beautifully on the fluffy pita bread. The hummus is a mainstay at Paprika, the acclaimed Israeli party spot in Great Neck Village. But now you can get it in a slightly more casual setting at Elisha, couple Roni and David Zaken's new order-at-the-counter shawarma spot in Great Neck. The left side of the restaurant features two impressive shawarma spits behind a Chipotle-style counter of spreads and veggies. The chicken shawarma is made from legs and dark meat, while the beef spit is made from thinly-sliced Argentinian rib-eye steak with ground lamb fat to hold it together. Elisha's menu is small and concise, with build-your-own shawarma that you can get wrapped in laffa bread, tucked into pita pockets or as a plate. Each option comes with an array of flavorful salads and spicy condiments. But the more popular item during a recent visit was actually a chicken schnitzel sandwich in a mini loaf of challah bread.

Off The Wheel, Bellport

Jennifer and Collin Preziosi had both worked in hospitality since they were teenagers — she in the front of the house, he in the back — but after they got married last year, they set about putting into action their plan of working together in a family business. Everything came together when they opened Off the Wheel, specializing in fine cheese and charcuterie, things made with them and things that go with them. The main floor of Off the Wheel is devoted to dozens of international cheeses and cured meats. Highlights from the cheese collection include 12-month aged Manchego from Spain, 24-month-old Parmesan and Taleggio from Italy, Gruyère and Ossau-Iraty from France, Stilton from England, Humboldt Fog from Harvest Moon from New York’s Hudson Valley. On the charcuterie front are Spanish chorizo, Italian prosciutto (both di Parma and di San Daniele) and Italian-style bresaola, capicola and soppressata from Salumeria Biellese (the Manhattan deli whose production facility is in New Jersey). Upstairs is a small butcher counter where you’ll find a small selection of grill-ready items such as steaks, burgers and franks, and wild cards such as Moulard duck breasts. There’s also a selection of specialty grocery items such as cultured butter, crème fraîche, blini, imported tomatoes, pasta (Martelli), olive oil and more.

Dolcino Caffé, Sea Cliff and Farmingdale

What was once a home decor store in Sea Cliff, Restoration Oak, was transformed into a dessert and coffee shop collaboration in 2023 — Dessertino and The Crafty Spoon. This week, the two brands have evolved into Dolcino Caffé, a similar idea with the addition of savory toasts and breakfast sandwiches. Plus, a second location opened in Farmingdale off Hempstead Turnpike. There are coffee drinks from simple cups — drips, dirty chais, lattes — to elaborate clouds (topped with foam), and signature lattes like Nutella, Biscoff, pistachio. For non-java drinkers, try the frubas, Taiwanese boba teas made with fruit, or refreshers like guava mango lemonades and Arnold Palmers. Additionally, there are juice-based smoothies and ice cream shakes. Peruse the plentiful, colorful sweets on display behind glass cases at both locations, with different cultural sweets sourced from Long Island bakers. In addition to the sweet treats, both Dolcinos carry a selection of savory and sweet toasts — the crunchy PB&J topped with banana, strawberries and pistachios was a peanut lover’s dream — as well as croissants, pastries, cookies, and breakfast sandwiches including bacon, egg and cheese options, plus Argentinian empanadas, egglet bites, quiche and chicken kebab rolls wrapped in naan.

Hampton Coffee Company, Quogue

A veggie burger and fries from Hampton Coffee Company in Quogue.

The brew is piping hot for Hampton Coffee Company, which opened its eighth location, in Quogue, less than a year after its Hampton Bays debut. The historical building it took over on Quogue Street is almost 100 years old, according to co-owner Jason Belkin. Belkin owns the Southampton-based roaster with his wife, Theresa. The building was previously a pharmacy, an ice cream and soda shop, and later, a luncheonette. Now the coffee shop, it includes indoor and outdoor seating for 54 diners. The menu features classic breakfast and lunch favorites, such as the veggie burger, served on a toasted brioche roll with lettuce, tomato, pickle, fries or coleslaw. The menu also includes a Mexican grill section with a grilled chicken whole wheat quesadilla and carne asada platter, which is marinated skirt steak served with guacamole, pico de gallo, rice and beans. Local beer and wine offerings include Riverhead’s Twin Forks Beer and Co. Bridgehampton’s Channing Daughters Winery.

Smuggler's Cove, Greenport

One of Greenport’s loveliest berths has a new occupant: Smuggler’s Cove has replaced Porto Bello (est. 1992) at the Safe Harbor Stirling marina. In the kitchen is chef Vincent Pomara, who cooked most recently at Seven Beach Lane in Westhampton Beach. His menu is a pleasing, seafood-centric blend of Italian and New American. At dinner, starters include fried provolone with basil pesto and balsamic drizzle, New England clam chowder, confit Long Island duck wings and grilled octopus with fregola, tomatoes, olives and preserved lemons. Mains include grilled local striped bass with charred eggplant, a Wagyu burger with Guinness-caramelized onions and Gruyère (served with truffled Parmesan fries), Berkshire pork chop with parsnip puree and Swiss chard, linguine with clams and pinwheel lasagna Bolognese. The weekend brunch menu features eggs Benedict (on sourdough toast instead of English muffin), sourdough French toast and an asparagus salad with hard-boiled eggs that can be boosted with shrimp, chicken, steak or anchovies.

Lava Diner, New Hyde Park

The menu at the new Lava Diner looks pretty typical — until you get to Page 7, where you'll see dishes like lamb shawarma, chicken biryani and fattoush salad. The diner is located in New Hyde Park, just a block away from the Queens border to be exact, on a stretch of Indian restaurants, markets and sweets shops, and next door to the Hillside Islamic Center. What may be Long Island's first halal diner, the Lava Diner has just gone into a storied building that most recently held the New Hyde Park Diner. Before that, it was the Gateway Diner, and before that, the County Line Diner, which dates back to the 1950s. Most of the menu seems unchanged, until the end where you get several new pages of Arabian and South Asian specialties. In addition to the shawarma, there's also the iconic Egyptian macaroni and lentil plate koshari Jordanian mansaf lamb and rice, and Palestinian chicken maqluba.

The Pizzeria, Yaphank

Vinny Martell hefts a Tri-Fecta (marinara, vodka, pesto) pie at The Pizzeria in Yaphank.

The Pizzeria can’t stop, won’t stop. The 6-year-old chain opened its eighth and easternmost outpost in Yaphank at The Boulevard, a 322-acre mixed-use development comprising retail, restaurants and about 700 residential units. The Yaphank menu has everything you’d expect to find at a pizzeria, from round and square pies to rice balls and wings, pasta and Parms, heros and wraps. There's also the chain's version of the MVP pizza, the Tri-Fecta, topped with marinara, vodka and pesto sauces. As at the chain’s larger locations, there’s a full bar with signature cocktails and well-chosen wines and beers.

PopUp Bagels, Westhampton

After several successful pop-ups in Amagansett, PopUp Bagels finally has a permanent home in the Hamptons, in Westhampton Beach at 130 Main Street. The Westhampton opening confirms PopUp's continued popularity on the Island and will serve the same hot bagels and rotating cream cheese and butter schmears. For those unfamiliar with PopUp Bagels, they offer a menu of smaller, more compact bagels than many Long Island bagel shops. More dense, with a chewy center and crispy exterior, PopUp Bagels are served warm alongside requisite cream cheese cups. Guests are encouraged to use their hands to "grip, rip and dip" the hot bagels into their chosen schmear.

Encanto Crepes & Cafe, Greenport

Colombian hot dogs, in Greenport? Foodies can now find it at Encanto Crepes & Cafe’s newest location on Main Street. Husband and wife duo, Gustavo Acero and Yuri Acero, opened Encanto’s first location on Valentine's Day in 2023. They opened a new, larger location on Greenport’s Main Street in the former Di Angela Goods & Accessories. The eatery — a full cafe with a variety of espresso and caffeinated drinks — has substantially expanded its menu to 12 crepe flavors, 45 varieties, all made in an open kitchen. For a crepe with Colombian flavor, there's the Colombian extraordinaire made with dulce de leche, guava paste and mozzarella cheese. More savory options include the pulled pork crepe or the chipotle chicken crepe and for seafood lovers, there’s the salmon crepe or the shrimp salad crepe. Authentic Colombian goodies such as arepas or corn griddle cakes, almojabanas or Colombian cheese bread have also been added to the menu. Loaded hot dogs are a standout; particularly the Colombian hot dog, made with onions, a pineapple topping, mozzarella cheese, potato chips and chipotle sauce.

Brody's Coffee, Westhampton Beach

The honey lavender espresso and a croissant from Brody's Coffee in Westhampton Beach.

Most pet owners show their furry best friends love with treats and playtime, but Vincent Greco went the extra mile — he named his new Westhampton Beach cafe after his beloved 8-year-old black Labrador mix, Brody. Brody’s has 10 syrups and four signature lattes: a banana bread latte with a banana cream cold foam, cookie butter latte, pistachio cream latte with pistachio cream cold foam. and a honey lavender matcha or espresso. He works with a couple of bakers to offer croissants, cookies and macarons. On the weekends, a baker makes rotating flavors of sourdough bread, offering plain loaves, Italian-herb or Cheddar and jalapeño.

Peri Peri Guys, Selden

If Zee Shan has anything to do with it, spicy-savory peri-peri chicken is going to be the next hot fast-casual trend on Long Island. Marinated overnight for flavor and tenderness, then baked and, finally, grilled to order, it's the signature item at Peri-Peri Guys, a 20-seat eatery that opened last week in Selden Plaza shopping center. The 2020 founding of Peri-Peri Guys in Hicksville added Nassau County to its passport, and partners Shan and Umar Farooq are the franchisees who have brought it to Suffolk. The long marination process of a Peri Peri chicken means that even the white meat is moist and flavorful. Bone-in folks have their choice of two pieces, four pieces or eight pieces. Wings range from five to 20 pieces. There are also large-format platters for feeding crowds. Not feeling the bones? Try skewered thighs, butterflied breast or six tenders. All chicken is halal. You can have your chicken in a wrap, sandwich or bowl or eschew chicken entirely with falafel or a vegan burger. Sides include fries, mac-and-cheese and rice.

Cement Coffee Company, Bayport

Cement Coffee is redefining the term "coffee bar" with a new outpost in Bayport’s People’s Pub. The coffee vendor opened at the historic Bayport Avenue building, serving signature lattes like the maple brown sugar cinnamon and the Earl Grey blueberry. The menu also includes coffee and tea, such as lavender mint tea or the cortado, and pastries from Long Island’s Pat’s Bakehouse, like the Earl Grey cookie or the blood orange and black sesame muffin. The goal of this partnership is to bring more life to the popular pub, which only functions Wednesday to Sunday evenings, during the day, Cement Coffee owner Jake Leone said.

Mugs at Schmidt's, Quogue

After a successful three-year run in Riverhead, popular cafe Mugs on Main is pouring into a second location, in Quogue. The cafe’s new outpost is inside Quogue at Schmidt's Country Market at 164 Jessup Ave. The cafe opened on Riverhead’s Main Street in 2023 and is known for its broken bacon, egg and cheese, a deconstructed version of the favorite breakfast sandwich served in a mug. Also on the menu: the churro latte, the la Azteca or the Over the Rainbow, which is the latte version of the popular rainbow cookie. Smoothies include pineapple, mango and banana, strawberry and raspberry, with add-ins from vegan or whey protein to spinach, chia, almond butter and peanut butter.

Mama's Italian, Carle Place

Mama’s of Copiague celebrated 50 years in business this month by opening a second location in Carle Place. Long owned by the Sala family, siblings Nora, Adam and Ahmy will be at the helm of this bigger new spot. Beyond the takeout counter, the dining rooms are airy and open, clubby in decor, with dark wood tables and chairs, accented by brown banquettes of varying hues. A 60-seat patio complete with bar will offer seasonal live music as the weather warms. The menu in Carle Place will replicate what Mama’s of Copiague has been doing for decades. If it’s pizza you’re craving, they have plain and novelty slices, from grandma to broccoli spinach Alfredo to shrimp pesto. Pastas can be made with over 10 sauces, from vodka to clam to Bolognese. There are 'roni rolls and eggplant rolls, calzones and chicken cutlet heroes. Main dishes range from marsala to scarpariello, parmigiana to piccata, and seafood ranges from shrimp scampi to filet of sole Francese to a seafood risotto. For dessert? Favorites such as tiramisu, cannoli, a variety of cheesecakes — but don’t miss the signature pistachio.

American Times Restaurant & Tavern, Oakdale

The Montauk Highway eatery, which used to be the Village Idiot Pub, opened last month. The interior of American Times American Times Restaurant & Tavern has a modern take on the classic tavern look, with wood finishes, lighter wallpaper and new leather seating. The bar also has 1920s-style milk lights over the bar. The attached enclosed patio has also been renovated to keep up with the classic tavern ambience. While the menu now features more entrees and upgraded cocktail and wine offerings, some Village Idiot Pub favorites remain, such as the steak tidbits and chicken wings . My choice was the hot honey deluxe handheld served on a toasted bun and made with buttermilk fried chicken, drizzled with hot honey and topped with pickles and coleslaw. The cocktail menu includes the melon drop martini made with Cîroc summer watermelon vodka, watermelon puree and fresh lime and an American old-fashioned made with great jones bourbon, maple cinnamon syrup and orange bitters.

Lale, Lindenhurst

Stuffed cabbage is one of the homestyle specials at Lale Turkish Restaurant in Lindenhurst.

Long Island’s Turkish restaurants are generally of a very high caliber, but Lale stands out both for its renderings of standards (eggplant salad, doner kebab, etc.) and its commitment to daily specials drawn from the repertoire of home cooks. You might happen upon braised flat beans with bits of beef, or delicate fingers or stuffed cabbage or a crackling sunburst of fried anchovies. Lale comprises a market with a takeout counter and a modest but attractive dining room. Chef Mustafa Aydim’s kebab production starts on the cutting board, where he takes apart a fresh leg of lamb: The leanest parts will become shish kebab, the shank will get braised, the trimmings will be ground, extravagantly seasoned and finger-pressed into spicy Adana kebabs. Some of the fat will be layered with slices of beef for doner kebab (gyro) that can be enjoyed as a sandwich or platter or draped over homemade bread and covered with yogurt and tomato sauce for the great Iskender kebab.

Crispy Karma, New Hyde Park

Simple concepts don’t come easily to Jay Jadeja and Raquel Wolf Jadeja. Their 6-year-old Sea Cliff restaurant, The Onion Tree (on both Newsday's Top 50 and Top Pizza lists), is a modern tavern serving regional Indian specialties inspired by Jay’s mother. Crispy Karma, a fast-casual eatery that opened in May in New Hyde Park, offers fried chicken with Indian flavors. Crispy chicken thighs (certified halal) are the main event here. The signature preparation, Fiery Karma, employs a marinade of tamarind, ginger and Thai chilis and, the menu warns, is "not for beginners." Milder, but no less flavorful, is The Parsi, flavored with cilantro, chili and lime. There are also three meat-free options: roasted paneer, grilled portobello mushroom and vada pav, the iconic Mumbai fried mashed potato patty. Once you "choose your karma," decide whether you’d like it on a potato bun topped with papaya-cabbage slaw and two chutneys (includes hand-cut fries) or in a bowl with salad or basmati rice. There are also wings and tenders (fried Fiery Karma or roasted Butter Chicken) and bone-in chicken pieces. Plus spiced fries, dosa-battered onion rings, slaws, salads and, for dessert, cookies.

Punjabi Bites, Rockville Centre

A new Rockville Centre restaurant makes a case that Long Island's Indian scene is getting even better, especially on the South Shore. The small spot is called Punjabi Bites and it's one of those strip mall storefronts on Sunrise Highway that's easy to just drive right by. The space, which previously held the original Flour Shoppe Cafe, is now owned by business partners Param Singh and Gagam Singh. Param says he owned an Indian restaurant in Easton, Pennsylvania, but recently sold it and set his sights on Long Island, specifically Rockville Centre. After three or four months of kitchen renovations, he opened in March with a menu that features Southern Indian, Indo-Chinese and Northern Indian dishes from his native Punjab. An appetizer of Amritsari fish features heavily spiced nuggets of white fish battered in crunchy chickpea flour.

UDee Thai Bistro, Plainview

Pad Thai with shrimp at the new UDee Thai Bistro in Plainview.

UThai Bistro became a quick-hit for Nassau-residing Thai food fans when it made its Woodbury debut in 2022. Now, owner, Apikorn "Joe" Lombardi, has used a similar playbook to launch his second Long Island eatery, UDee Thai Bistro, in Plainview's Morton Village Shopping Center. The comprehensive menu includes a Thai list of classics, from starters like tom yum soup to chicken satay with silky peanut sauce to papaya salad to larb gai, or minced chicken tossed with mint, red onions, scallion, lime, all of which gets loaded into oversized lettuce leaves. For mains, pad thai to basil stir fries and coconut milk-based curries, to which diners can add their choice of proteins including chicken, tofu, beef or shrimp. There are pages of regional specialties, including those from the central and southern regions, plus Lanna delicacies from the north and Isan dishes from the northeast.

Carmela's Pizzeria, Franklin Square

Though Carmela’s Pizzeria & Restaurant in Franklin Square has reopened under new ownership, the business is staying in the family. Rick Calia, a cousin of the former owners, Bart and Carmela Calia, has taken ownership along with his son Rick Calia Jr., and his brother-in-law Michael D’Alessadro. Calia retained 80% of the staff who worked at the pizzeria when his cousin owned it. The menu stayed the same, Calia said. Gourmet pizza options include the Quattro Gusti — made with black olives, mushrooms, ham and artichoke hearts with tomato and mozzarella — while grandma and Neapolitan are among the traditional pies. For dinner, there's the pasta e fagioli made with ditalini pasta, kidney and cannellini beans, and prosciutto in broth, eggplant rollatini and veal Sorrentino, made with medallions of veal topped with sliced eggplant, prosciutto and mozzarella in a brown sauce.

Lucky Dumplings, Great Neck

Great Neck may just be the dumpling capital of Long Island, with destination spots for Chinese wontons, Korean mandu, Thai kanom jeeb and Jewish matzo balls. Now we welcome another dumpling newcomer, Lucky Dumplings, which recently opened on Northern Boulevard just east of the Queens border. Lucky Dumpling's interior may be minimalist chic, but the menu brings the energy with its selection of Northern Chinese dishes, for way less money than you'd expect. One highlight is the Northeastern style zhajiang noodle, which features a dark brown, porky sauce made from fermented soybean paste. It's a signature dish from Beijing, but is hard to find on Long Island. Lucky Dumplings also has a decent selection of stir fries and other dough-less dishes from the Northern Chinese, Sichuan and Cantonese-American playbooks.

Dolce Bella, Smithtown

A selection of flavored cannolis from Dolce Bella's second store in Smithtown.

Friends Brandyn Williams and Tim "Big Red" Downey and their colorful cannoli began as a TikTok sensation with roots in a simple Italian ice cart that Williams was running on his own up until 2022. Fast forward four years and to the addition of stuffed, flavored cannoli — the stuff of Long Island dreams — the guys are onto their second shop. Joining the original in Oceanside, a new Dolce Bella cannoli storefront has opened in Smithtown. With so many irresistible options, give in to your inner Italian child and order a three-, six- or twelve-cannoli sampler. Mix and match flavors like rainbow cookie, Reese’s (peanut butter cup), Nutella, birthday cake, cookies and cream, fudge cookie butter, pistachio, or for purists, original with plain cannoli cream and chocolate chips adorning the ends. If you just want the cream, there are cups, plus gelato and Italian ice — from The Lemon Ice King of Corona, in Queens. Wash it all down with a dirty soda.

Crown of Spices, Levittown

Tucked back into the depths of a Levittown strip mall, the new Crown of Spices is a hidden gem spot for South Indian food. You can tell that partners Ajin Sekhar and Gunasekaran Gounder are pulling out all the stops for their first restaurant in the United States, which opened last month. The partners, from Tamil Nadu, India, also own two restaurants in the Indian cities of Salem and Kanyakumari, according to Sekhar. The cavernous dining room has a flashy look that matches its maximalist menu, which spans more than a dozen pages and will have your head spinning by the time you reach the biryani section. Thalassery fish curry, Andhra fish curry, Gongura mutton curry ... many of these hard-to-find dishes hail from the southernmost states of Kerala and Tamil Nadu, which is a tropical region with dishes sharing some similarities to Sri Lankan cuisine.

Griffin Kitchen & Bar, Roslyn

Long Island native Pasquale Abatiello cut his teeth in local kitchens (among them Porto Vivo and Red in Huntington and Barrique in Babylon) then spent years commuting to Westchester where he was the executive chef of the six-restaurant Wood & Fire group. He and his partners opened Griffin Kitchen & Bar in Roslyn in early May. Abatiello is joined by Frances Cappi, a veteran not only of Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s ABC Kitchen in Manhattan but also Ceriello’s Fine Foods, the great Italian specialty market in Williston Park. The two men put together a menu that blends comfort and sophistication. Starters include mussels with white wine, mustard and tarragon; fried Rhode Island calamari and rock shrimp with cherry peppers and aioli; burrata with homemade focaccia, Spanish ham and balsamic vinegar. You can craft a casual meal from one of the salads and / or sandwiches such as the grass-fed Griffin burger, the fried chicken with slaw and Cheddar or the French dip with rib-eye, horseradish cream and jus.

Aunt Jake's, Huntington

Malfada with spicy vodka sauce at Aunt Jake's in Huntington.

In the 11 years since they opened their first Aunt Jake’s in Little Italy, Manhattan, restaurateur Nick Boccio and his partner, chef Carmine DiGiovanni, have been through the wringer, opening and closing locations and, in the wake of COVID, focusing on group classes to satisfy an audience hungry not just for Italian dining, but for experiences. At the new Aunt Jake’s in Huntington, pasta will once again be front and center. The kitchen produces eight homemade shapes, each of which can be paired with one of eight sauces. DiGiovanni’s non-pasta items tend to be less traditionally Italian than the pastas. Starters include an avocado-grapefruit salad with shaved fennel, pickled red onions and sesame; roasted carrots with lemon yogurt and sunflower seeds; mussels in a Champagne-cream sauce; roast potatoes with pecorino aioli. Mains include crisp-skinned salmon with citrus gremolata and fennel salad; roasted (mostly boneless) half chicken with garlic, broccoli rabe and polenta; bone-in short rib with muffuletta relish, artichoke risotto. Pasta-making classes will be held in the second-floor dining room (which can also be configured for regular service). For that price you get 75 minutes of pasta-making instruction and a ball of dough to take home plus a three-course meal drawn from the regular menu.

Gasalong Thai, Great Neck

Great Neck is already the place to go for Chinese food and sushi, but a new restaurant is making it a hotspot for regional Thai food as well. Gasalong Thai opened in April after a process that took more than a year. The stylish restaurant serves dishes from Thailand's northern city of Chiang Mai, joining other new wave Thai restaurants, like JaydSiri and Prode down the street in Little Neck. There's a selection of clay pot dishes, which are known for being a signature of Hong Kong. The goong ob woon sen consists of glass noodles that are steamed in a clay pot with shrimp and bacon slices.The biggest find was a plate of phenomenal kanom jeeb dumplings, which go by the name Gasalong dumplings on the menu. But the dumplings are hard to find locally, but actually a well-known Thai riff on Cantonese siu mai, the pork and shrimp wonton dumplings at dim sum houses.

Smart'Wich, Syosset

Syosset sandwich fans can finally rejoice. Smart'Wich, the artisanal sandwich shop formerly located inside Francesco’s Bakery in Hicksville, has moved, expanding to a proper storefront in Syosset on Jackson Avenue, taking over the former Tommy Tacos, For Smart'Wich chef Michael Guerrieri — who was born in Naples, Italy, moved to New York, then Lisbon for 17 years, then back to New York again — Smart'Wich is about wholesome ingredients and simplicity. Just like in Hicksville, the menu has a 12-sandwich spread, all made on handmade Portuguese bread. Menu highlights include an octopus Smart'Wich with onions and peppers, another with crumbled sausage, chopped kale, cooked tomato, mozzarella and homemade Portuguese Piri Piri oil, still another with house-pickled Portuguese sardines and cilantro, not to mention an omelet sandwich with mozzarella. For the less adventurous, there are smart'wiches of tuna, bacon, sausage, turkey and roast beef. And for those with a sweet tooth, there's a spread of Nutella on warm pao saloio sprinkled with powdered sugar.

3 Sons Ice Cream, Kings Park

Mint chip, black cherry and coffee chip ice cream in a waffle cone at 3 Sons Ice Cream in Kings Park.

When the storefront in between Rock Massa's 3 Sons Delicatessen and 3 Sons Pizza Kitchen in a modest Kings Park shopping center became available last year, there was no question that it would be subsumed into the growing 3 Sons empire. Rock wanted to create a space that welcomed the community and he succeeded, with a spiffy-retro blue-and-white decor and seating for 16. He doesn’t skimp on ingredients: Real coffee for the coffee ice cream, Bordeaux cherries for the black cherry, Dutch process cocoa for the chocolate, dark chocolate Barry Callebaut chunks wherever chips are called for. There are always around 35 flavors on offer (including dairy free and no sugar added) plus soft-serve chocolate and vanilla, shakes and custom cakes.

Bull Moose, Oyster Bay

Fresh off the heels of The Comet Club opening in Westbury, Jesse Schenker and Claudia Taglich’s Lush Life Hospitality has unveiled its latest project: Bull Moose, a members-only speakeasy-style lounge that offers fans of the Oyster Bay chef and his restaurants priority access and perks within his empire. The draw of joining Bull Moose is clearly a luxury — with a one-time initiation fee of $5,000 and annual fee of $1,200. Clubby and sleek, the lounge has a taxidermied moose head centered on one of the walls, doubling down on the hunting theme Roosevelt embraced in his own spaces. Add to that a compact yet extensive collection of top-shelf spirits for shaking or stirring the perfect cocktail. With room for about 20 people, the lounge is available for members' private use. As far as food goes, Bull Moose serves "fun, little noshes," like spring rolls, a pressed Cuban sandwich, truffled grilled cheese, oysters and caviar service. The specialized cocktail program will feature mixologists pouring "perfect martinis, and classics like Manhattans, executed at a high level," Schenker said. There will also be specialized ice.

Via Cuma Sourdough Pizza & Cucina, Oceanside

Since Luca Schiano Di Cola opened Via Cuma Sourdough Pizza & Cucina, his gastronomic ode to Naples, in 2024, he has labored to fit all his ambitions into a tiny Valley Stream storefront. (It worked: Via Cuma is a Newsday Top Pizzeria.) His new Oceanside pizzeria, which opened last month, has more than twice the capacity, exponentially more parking and, very soon, a full bar. . There are almost 20 varieties of pizza, from the simple Margherita, made not only with Italian San Marzano tomatoes but with imported mozzarella, to the cheese-free Napoletana, topped with cherry tomatoes and anchovies from Cetara on the Amalfi coast. More elaborate specimens include the Capricciosa, a Margherita gussied up with ham, olives, artichokes and mushrooms; the Patate, Porchetta e Provola, a white pie topped with cubes of roast potatoes and pork; and the Genovese, named for the Southern Italian sauce of braised beef and onions. Pies come in 12- and 16-inch sizes, and many varieties can be made into a panuozzo, a sandwich made with pizza dough wherein the topping becomes the filling.

Adana Grill, Bohemia

The Adana kebab, served with rice, bulgur and salad, at Adana Grill in Bohemia.

There’s one dish you have to order when you’re at a place called Adana Grill, a new Turkish eatery, and that’s the Adana kebab, made of minced lamb and seasonings that include hot chili peppers and sweet bell peppers. This specimen, savory and succulent and not terribly spicy, came with a fresh salad liberally sprinkled with tart sumac. Usually, you choose between white rice and bulgur tinted red by pepper and / or tomato paste but, at Adana Grill, both are standard sides for the grilled kebabs that also include chicken Adana, lamb and beef shish kebab, kofte (meatballs) and Beyti kebab (ground meat wrapped in flatbread and finished with tomato sauce). All the meats are featured in dozens of formats and combinations — wraps, combination platters and even contemporary bowls. You’ll find traditional Turkish starters such as eggplant salad, feta-filled fried phyllo "cigars" and cubes of fried liver along with pan-Mediterranean items like hummus, tabbouleh and falafel.

Dawat, Port Washington

Long Island is in the throes of a full-blown upscale-Indian boom — the latest entry being Dawat in Port Washington. The driving force behind Dawat is chef-owner Santokh Singh, a native of the Punjab in India whose first job in the U.S. was at Dawat (est. 1986), the pioneering Manhattan restaurant that was one of the first to serve authentic regional Indian cuisine in a luxurious setting. Singh’s kitchen draws from all over the subcontinent. Among the starters is paalak patte ki chaat, a northern street snack that might be best described as a fried spinach salad dressed with yogurt and chutneys; bhagari jhinga, a curry of prawns in a creamy tomato sauce that originated in the coastal south and Hyderabadi pathar kabab, stone-seared slices of marinated lamb from ... Hyderabad, India. Among main dishes are the classic northern Banjara mutton, rich with a caramelized onion-tomato-ginger sauce, and the vegetarian paneer caldine, fresh cheese in a spiced coconut-milk sauce from Goa, India. The extensive menu also includes biryani, meats roasted in a tandoor oven or seared in a cast-iron "tawa," plus a variety of vegetables and breads.

Kadoya, Westhampton Beach

The 29-year-old restaurant Sushi 1 was a standard-bearer for the kind of classic Japanese cooking that is increasingly rare on Long Island, and it closed at the end of 2024. At the time, chef-owner Kimi Osaki said another Japanese restaurateur was taking over the spot. Toyo Kamatani, a partner at Suki Zuki in Water Mill, has now resurrected it as Kadoya. Kadoya (Japanese for "corner house") has retained Sushi 1’s modest decor and traditional menu. Starters include oshitashi (blanched spinach), agedashi tofu (deep fried and served in broth), karaage chicken (deep-fried nuggets), hamachi kama (grilled yellowtail jaw), gyoza and shumai dumplings. The sushi menu comprises set platters — sushi and sashimi (regular and deluxe), chirashi, unadon, tekkadon — as well as a la carte nigiri and sashimi and about two dozen rolls, from California, negihama (yellowtail-scallion) and spicy tuna to the Kadoya roll (lobster, avocado tobiko, cucumber with spicy sauce) and roll-adjacent "tuna sandwich" (spicy tuna, tobiko, scallion, tempura flakes) that is a signature item at Suki Zuki.

Mighty Fine, Huntington

A DIY peach-blueberry pie at Mighty Fine in Huntington.

The concept behind Mighty Fine in Huntington started with Daria Lamb’s desire to take pie to another level, but neither her imagination nor her ambition could be contained within a 10-inch crust. Her pie-centric "all-day-cafe" opened with sweet and savory pies, quiches, sandwiches, roast chickens, cookies, coffee, a full bar, a kids’ play area — all contained in the stately old house that, for more than 30 years, was Finley's of Green Street. Her most innovative idea might be the design-your-own-pie bar: Choose your crust (7- or 10-inch) and then, Chipotle-style, direct a server to scoop in your desired fillings from buckets of fruit in the repurposed ice-cream display case. Next, would you like your pie topped with crumb or streusel or more pastry? Or with no topping at all? Forty-five minutes to an hour later (depending on the size) your pie is ready to be eaten or taken home.

LA420, Great Neck

It was a long time coming for LA420, a New American restaurant that recently opened along Great Neck's car-centric Northern Boulevard. Its predecessor, 420 North, closed in 2013, and it got on the radar of new owner Tina Huang around 2022. It's not her first restaurant. She also has two locations of Mihana Japanese Bistro in Woodbury and Commack, as well as K-CITY BBQ hot pot & sushi in Levittown. She and her partners spent nearly four years renovating the space. The menu is like a greatest hits of bistro cuisine, with dishes such as seafood linguine, herb-crusted chicken, a wagyu burger and a tomahawk steak. The menu is particularly heavy on small plates, including crabcakes, a plate of three nicely cooked scallops in a miso creme sauce and a duo of slow-cooked beef ribs topped with a crunchy rosemary potato mix.

Han, Port Washington

By the Port Washington train station, the takeout spot Lee's Korean Kitchen has now become a sit-down restaurant named Han with an ambitious young owner who's making some excellent kimchi. First-time restaurant owner David Lim took over the tiny restaurant after 18 years working different jobs in the hospitality business. He's particularly proud of his kimchi, which he prepares himself. His menu is like a greatest hits of Korean cuisine, with a sizable selection of Korean fried chicken, hot stews, stir fries and Korean barbecue skillets. He plans to add more traditional items like grilled fish very soon. The sizzling short rib dish LA Galbi hit the spot, with its nubby meat bits that you gnaw off the bone. Han is also one of the few spots where you can find honey butter chicken wings, a newer flavor trending on TikTok.

Lim's Kitchen, Port Washington

Honey butter wings is a popular new style found on the menu at Han in Port Washington.

The new Lim's Kitchen looks nothing like the previous tenant, a bohemian Argentinian sandwich spot named Caminito, and before that, a lauded Chinese restaurant, The Ivory Kitchen. Now the room is dark and minimalist, with little golden lamps and tablet menus on every table. Lim's also has locations in Astoria, Queens, and Manhattan, as well as a separate concept, Gimbap Story by Lim's Kitchen in Astoria. But this is its first on Long Island. The menu here is also a scattershot of bar-friendly items, such as rice cake and sausage skewers, plus Korean barbecue dishes, bibimbap rice bowls and a decent selection of noodles. Try the yukgaejang, which is a spicy shredded beef stew with a broth that's livened up with gochugaru chili powder, or a plate of pork bossam. This is an appetizer for the ages. The succulent hunks of boiled pork belly are arranged in something resembling a color wheel, with the fattiest bits leading around to the meatiest. Some of the pieces were fattier than others, but once you wrap them in the lettuce with the ssamjang paste and top with stringy oyster radish kimchi, you'll feel like you can eat anything.

The Gluten Free Treat Shop, Massapequa

Jenna Vanacore had always enjoyed baking but when she was diagnosed with celiac disease 12 years ago she went into overdrive. From baking for herself, Vanacore went on to selling her products on Etsy and at local farmers markets, to adding wholesale accounts in 2022 and then, in October, launching her Massapequa shop, The Gluten Free Treat Shop. It’s a light-filled, welcoming space, done up in pastels and white marble. One signature item at the shop is the big, diner-style cookie covered with sprinkles, plus traditional chocolate chip and dark chocolate cookies with white chocolate chips. The shop's offerings change with the season and her whim, but you’ll always find platters of rainbow cookies, individual cakes, packs of biscotti, muffins, bagels and breads.

Off the Bay, Sayville

Sayville Bait & Tackle has officially become Off the Bay, a new seafood-focused concept keeping the oceanfront-inspired charm of the former eatery that closed in February after a five-year run. While the space at 220 N. Main St. has had new owners since Jan 1., Michael Jordan and partners Shaun Ihne and Rob DelGiorno kept the character of the space, including the decorative ceiling-fan oars. The trio also owns Whiskey Neat in Patchogue and Frankie’s Table in Commack. Start with appetizers such as a lobster roll slider or the smash burger slider. Off the Bay’s raw bar includes a shrimp cocktail or Long Island oysters. Entrees includes a shrimp po-boy, steak frites and what the crew has branded as "the best chicken on the block."

Patrizia's, Westbury

St. Joseph's Pescatore linguine with seafood and toasted anchovy breadcrumbs at Patrizia's in Westbury.

"The same, but different" is how Tony Luisi described Patrizia’s in Westbury, which opened this month in the old AG Steakhouse just south of Samanea mall. It’s the fifth Long Island link in the metro area chain and, with a capacity of more than 300 seats, unquestionably the biggest. The sister restaurants in Hicksville, Massapequa and Hauppauge all share a big, crowd-pleasing, family-style Italian American menu and a boisterous, singalong vibe. (The Patrizia’s Marquee that opened last year in Commack is a bit more subdued and upscale.) Despite its size, the Westbury layout actually feels more intimate since it is divided into four spaces that, aside from a main dining room that accommodates 120, can provide a more intimate experience — or can be cordoned off for private events. The menu is about 30% smaller than at the other locations. There are a number of dishes exclusive to Westbury. In addition to Patrizia’s signature fioretti money bags (homemade "purses" in a mushroom-prosciutto cream sauce), the kitchen is making truffle-fig money bags that can be ordered as a big platter or tossed tableside with a creamy cheese sauce in a hollowed-out wheel of Parmigiano-Reggiano (can "start" a table of four). Or, dive into the seafood extravaganza called St. Joseph’s Pescatore: clams, mussels, shrimp, octopus on a bed of linguine topped with toasted anchovy breadcrumbs.

The Comet Club, Westbury

The Comet Club is anchoring The Vanderbilt luxury apartment and hotel in Westbury. The sprawling 5,000-square-foot space blends New York’s Gilded Age with the cocktail-glam of 1920s Miami and Havana, with about 120 seats and a large outdoor patio. And it has chef Jesse Schenker, whose Long Island restaurant portfolio has, until now, been focused on Oyster Bay. Despite the grandeur of the space, The Comet Club’s menu is approachable and familiar. There’s a raw bar that includes caviar, shrimp cocktail and oysters. Or start with deviled eggs with roasted red pepper and pickled onion relish, guacamole or chicken liver mousse. Light eaters will appreciate the salads with add-on proteins like shrimp, steak, chicken. There’s a French dip, a Cuban press, and an excellent burger made with 10 ounces of Schenker’s in-house beef blend, topped with Cheddar cheese on a brioche bun with fries. Fish includes grilled local tuna and whole roasted trout, while there's a range of steaks, chops and a full or half-roasted chicken. In an ode to The Comet train, from which the restaurant derives its name, dessert carts and trolleys circulate with a variety of pies, cakes and seasonal sweets.

Green Eats, Glen Cove

Two Glen Cove natives decided their town needed more healthy food options and, instead of complaining about it, they decided to do something. Simone Castillo and Edward Villatoro took over the Bridge Storefront that had briefly been Nelly’s Empanadas and established Green Eats, specializing in smoothies, bowls and more quick-serve options. Castillo and Villatoro are bullish on vegetables and whole grains and are equally mindful of sourcing. Bestsellers include the Green Paradise smoothie (pineapple, mango, passion fruit juice, spinach, kale and agave), the Bliss Bowl (brown rice, lentils sweet potatoes, corn, kale, whipped feta, pickled red onions, poblano cream and chipotle-Caesar dressing), the Spring Pea Salad Wrap (arugula, radish, peas, carrots, cabbage, feta and blush dressing) and the Green Eats quesadilla (kale, spinach, feta, Monterey Jack cheese, pickled onion and chipotle chicken).

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