Models show off designs by Calvin Klein during Fashion Week....

Models show off designs by Calvin Klein during Fashion Week. (Feb. 14, 2013) Credit: AFP/Getty Images

Statement coats with strong defined cuts and big, solid gold buckles gave more than a hint about what Francisco Costa was thinking for fall 2013: Military.

After his show on Thursday afternoon, Costa said he was inspired by the Andrei Tarkovsky 1962 Russian movie, “Ivan’s Childhood,” about one boy’s traumatic journey through World War II. Of the collection he said, “It’s male-female and very architectural”

But though Costa referenced military and menswear throughout the lineup, there was a powerful jolt of femininity here. It evoked strength and classiness without a knee-jerk attempt at aggression that has been rampant on the runways this season.  Best of all...we think women will find much here that is figure-flattering.

We loved: A menswear plaid (yes, plaid at a Calvin show!!) dress, that featured an open side and a touch of shiny vinyl; the open-weave of a wool felt sleeveless coat; the forest green military coat with a shiny, pebbled patent leather hem and a snow sheared alpaca deep v neck shell over a snow cashmere and vinyl skirt. And on, and on.