Curly hair stylist Allison Bridges has been in demand following a major change in New York State's cosmetology licensing programs.

Bridges — the owner of Curl Evolution salon in Babylon who's worked as a guest teacher of curly hair care at Long Island cosmetology schools for the past eight years — says she'll teach textured hair technique classes at 20 schools during the current school year, compared to four last school year. The influx in training interest on the topic is thanks to a bill signed into law last year by Gov. Kathy Hochul encouraging the state’s cosmetology schools to prepare students to work with all types of hair, including curly, coiled, coarse and thick hair.

As many as 65% of people have a curl or wave to their hair, Bridges says. "If they want to learn to wear it curly, their stylist should be able to support them. Up until now, that was not necessarily the case."

The bill, S6528A,which went into effect in May after being signed in November 2023, stipulates that the state’s cosmetologists should have the skills and knowledge necessary to confidently consult and work with clients with a range of hair textures. The ultimate goal of the legislation, according to the bill, is to pave the "way for consumers of all ethnic backgrounds to feel welcomed, valued, understood and seen when getting serviced by hairstylists."

Danielle Mitchell, 37, of Bellport, gets her hair done by Allison Bridges, owner of Curl Evolution in Babylon. Mitchell says she "lives" with her hair curly.

"We're definitely seeing an uptick in people reaching out, looking for how they can get more educated," says Bridges. "The fact that it's becoming a lot more mainstream is really great for clients."

Bridges also teaches curl care classes at local high school, BOCES and adult continuing education centers. She also teaches over Zoom to stylists around the country to address what she calls a "huge gap across the country of curl specialists." She teaches both the in-person and virtual classes on a volunteer basis to address this gap.

Carolyn McKillop, a human appearance enhancement/cosmetology educator and evening supervisor at Eastern Suffolk BOCES — which oversees a cosmetology program for adults — says "our industry is about catering to everyone." Eastern Suffolk BOCES recently updated its curriculum to ensure "that every hair texture is covered comprehensively."

LONG OVERDUE

Efforts to bring equity to hair salons is long overdue, according to educators and stylists. Men and women with textured hair have had to tread carefully in the past when going into a salon, as many working stylists simply weren’t trained to style, treat and care for textured hair. A bad salon experience could leave a customer with damage to their hair that could last for years. That fear may be slowly on its way to becoming a thing of the past as more current cosmetology students, now being trained on care, enter the workforce.

Alexandra Brunetto, a senior at Sachem High School North who is in the cosmetology program, says her teacher informed her class about curriculum changes as a result of the bill.

"Our class has been receiving more education, through different seminars we’ve had, outside educators come in showing us different hair textures, and how to style, care and maintain," says Brunetto, who is currently working in the industry and hopes to pursue a career as a stylist focused on coloring after she graduates. "I do believe when I enter the industry after graduating high school, I will be prepared, having been exposed to various types of hair textures."

New manequins show cosmetology students how to care for textured hair.

Still, the bill has already made an impact on two particular groups: working stylists who may be encouraged to learn about natural hair care and beauty supply companies such as Aveda, Devacurl and L’Oreal, which supported the bill as members of trade organization The Professional Beauty Association. And soon, the customer, as these trained individuals begin to infiltrate the workforce.

Christine Cotto, lead educator at the Long Island Beauty School in Hauppauge and teacher at Sewanhaka High School in Floral Park, confirms that one impact of the bill has been the reshuffling of cosmetology program budgets, with educators seeking upgraded textbooks that feature textured hair care as well as mannequins. Students have appreciated the focus on textured hair, she adds, because it helps them feel more included as well as confident.

Holtsville-based Burmax, a leading manufacturer, importer and distributor of beauty, barber, nail and spa supplies that deals extensively with beauty schools across the country, has seen this change firsthand.

"Our biggest selling products in the past were more straight hair mannequins," says Melanie Silveri, Burmax’s northeast schools sales consultant. "I’ve seen a definite increase in the amount of textured hair mannequins that have gone out versus the year past," especially in New York.

She adds there’s been rising interest in Burmax’s "Keke" mannequins (named after singer Keke Palmer), which features four different hair textures, divided into quadrants, so students can get a feel for each. Silveri has also seen a higher demand for the company’s textured hair care education program for cosmetology instructors, which was launched in anticipation of the law passing last year.

MORE TO DO

Cosmetology professionals say that while the bill is a good first step, as it has served to raise awareness about textured hair care, the state could further implement natural hair care into the curriculum, including it as part of the state exam.

"The law itself is fine. It's just not comprehensive. It's just not giving the next steps," says Erin Maybin, a cofounder of The Natural Hairstyle & Braid Coalition, a nonprofit that seeks to rename and strengthen New York’s existing Natural Hair Styling license. "Integrating texture into the state board test would be ideal."

The office of State Sen. Jamaal T. Bailey(D-Baychester), who sponsored S6528A, did not respond to a request for comment. The governor’s office deferred comment on updating the bill to the State Education Department, which did not respond.

"Long term, [the bill will] make a huge difference," Cotto says. "At the moment, we have certain salons for certain services. Moving forward, you’ll probably have salons that anyone will feel confident walking into."

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