Garden columnist Jessica Damiano shows you how to create a gorgeous garden.

Things to Do

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Why don't my hydrangea plants have flowers? I have had two plants for three years, and each year they come in nice and green but no flowers. I prune them in the fall. -- Carolyn Grunner, <a href="/topics/Melville%2C_NY">Melville</a> 
I have a large hydrangea plant, all green, but no flowers. What do I need to do? I have been feeding it Miracle-Gro, but still no flowers. -- Kathleen Moffettone, <a href="/topics/Wantagh%2C_NY">Wantagh</a> 
&nbsp;I get at least three questions about nonblooming hydrangeas every week, so I think it's time for a primer. Hydrangeas can fail to bloom for a few different reasons - too much shade, too much nitrogen fertilizer, too much or too little water. But in my experience, the most common cause is improper pruning. Some hydrangeas bloom on old wood, growth from the prior year or two, while others bloom on new stems from the current year's growth. If you have a species that blooms on old wood and you prune it in early spring, you're removing all the flower buds and sabotaging your plant. 
To know when to prune your hydrangea, you first must know which species you have. Here's a handy guide - just <a href="http://www.newsday.com/lifestyle/home-and-garden/which-hydrangea-is-yours-1.1436967">compare your plant with the photos</a> and check the advice. 
Hydrangea macrophylla 
Prune in late summer, as soon as the flowers fade, but never after September. Remove weaker stems from the base of the plant, being careful to retain several stems of old wood, which will produce buds for next year's flowers. 
Hydrangea arborescens Grandiflora 
Cut to the ground in late winter/ early spring. 
Hydrangea paniculata Grandiflora (Peegee) 
Simply remove spent flowers and thin or cut back last year's growth in late winter/ early spring. 
Hydrangea quercifolia (oakleaf hydrangea) 
Remove dead wood at the base of the plant in early spring. 
Hydrangea anomala petiolaris (climbing hydrangea) 
Unruly vines can be shortened in summer. Otherwise, pruning is seldom necessary. 
PHOTOS: <a href="http://www.newsday.com/lifestyle/home-and-garden/which-hydrangea-is-yours-1.1436967">Identify your hydrangea species</a>

Columnists

LFDAMIANO13

Hydrangea pruning guide

Hydrangea paniculata

I like the idea of transforming garbage into free mulch and fertilizer. It's a win-win situation when I can save money and keep my eggshells, coffee grinds and weeds out of landfills. Compost is the single best additive available for improving any soil. Soil too sandy? Add compost. Too much clay? Add compost. Lacking nutrients? Compost. No wonder gardeners call it black gold. 

ny-home-howto-compost

Decide on a container

lfCOMPOST18

Add 50 percent (or more) of browns

Add 50 percent (or less) of greens

Keep it moist

Get cookin'

How to make compost

Late winter is the perfect time for pruning most woody plants. 
They're still dormant, you can better see what you're doing because your view isn't obstructed by leaves, and it's when plants heal fastest. If you're unable to prune before April 15, wait until July, which is the next-best time to prune. 
There are two types of pruning - selective and rejuvenation. 
Selective means what it sounds like: You select certain branches to remove, and you have a reason for doing so. 
Rejuvenation pruning is the extreme cutting back of overgrown, unproductive shrubs, but plants must be healthy to withstand it. To rejuvenate, you have three options: Sever the whole plant at the crown, where the stem meets the roots; prune all the branches at unequal heights all at once, or prune a little each year over the course of a few years. The latter method is the least severe but requires the most patience. The first method is actually the best, but it requires a certain level of intestinal fortitude. Plants should be fertilized well after undergoing any rejuvenating pruning. 
Broadleaf evergreen shrubs (laurels, rhododendrons, etc.) should undergo only selective pruning, and they can take it at any time of year. 
Narrow-leaf (needled) evergreens should undergo selective maintenance pruning only. Always remove more from the top than from the bottom, which will allow sunlight to reach the base of the plant. Take care not to overshear or cut holes into narrow-leaf evergreens; with the exception of yews, they won't ever fill back in. 
When it comes to hedges, there's only one basic rule: The bottom must remain wider than the top. If the plant thins out at the bottom, the only way to correct it is to cut the entire hedge down to 6 to 8 inches from the ground and wait for it to grow back. You don't want to go there. 
When pruning shrubs and trees with thin branches, use pruners to remove dead wood, crisscrossed limbs and branches that are growing into the tree's canopy. But when removing a branch with a diameter of more than one inch, never make a flush cut, which would remove the branch collar and create a bigger wound. Instead, use your saw and the three-cut method (pictured at right). 
Pruning notes and exceptions 
For lilacs and similar spring bloomers, it's best to wait until after their flowers fall so as not to remove flower buds and spoil the season's show. 
Forsythia should be pruned every year right after flowering. 
Spirea and weigela should be pruned every two to three years. 
Clethra and cotoneasters should seldom be pruned. 
Butterfly bush (Buddleia) should never be pruned in fall, or it will die. Instead, cut it all the way to the ground every year in early spring. 
Deadhead rhododendrons and mountain laurels only if they aren't full enough, and do it immediately after flowering. Waiting even a week will defeat the purpose, and the plants will remain leggy. 
Hydrangeas are in a class all their own - actually, in several classes. Here are the basics: 
Hydrangea macrophylla: Prune in late summer, as soon as the flowers fade, but never after September. Remove weaker stems from the base of the plant, being careful to retain several stems of old wood, which will produce buds for next year's flowers. You can prune now, too, but it will cost you flowers this year. 
Hydrangea arborescens Grandiflora: Cut to the ground in late winter/early spring. If it survived the winter nicely, however, and you'd like it to grow better, do a light selective pruning, cutting branches at varying heights. 
Hydrangea paniculata Grandiflora (Peegee): Simply remove spent flowers; thin or cut back last year's growth in late winter/early spring. 
Hydrangea quercifolia (Oak-leaf hydrangea): Remove dead wood at the base of the plant in early spring. 
Hydrangea anomala petiolaris (climbing hydrangea): Unruly vines can be shortened in summer. Otherwise, pruning is seldom necessary. 
The three-cut method 
Use this for branches with a diameter of 1 inch or more. 
1 Cut the branch halfway through from underneath, a few inches from the trunk. 
2 Move your saw a few inches farther out on the branch, away from the trunk, and cut the whole branch off from the top. This eliminates the weight of the branch and prevents tearing. 
3 Make the third and final cut just outside the branch-bark ridge, sawing through the entire branch to the outside of the collar. If you were to make this complete cut without having done steps 1 and 2, the weight of the branch would cause it to rip just before separating, and the tree would have a difficult recovery and a larger area through which disease could enter.

ny-home-pruningguide

The ultimate pruning guide for trees and shrubs

Pruning guide for trees and shrubs

NY-PRUNERS-PIC

If you haven't saved cell packs from last year's plants, you can purchase inexpensive ones from your local nursery. (If reusing last&nbsp;year's packs, disinfect them for 10 minutes in a 90/10 water/bleach solution.) 
Or you can start seeds in clean yogurt containers, egg cartons or even eggshells (rinse shell half and carefully poke a tiny hole in the bottom with a pin). 
1 Fill your container with moist, soilless seed-starting mix (never use garden soil; it's too dense and can contain organisms that could lead to disease) and sow three or four seeds per cell, pressing gently. 
2 Keep moist. Watering through holes poked in the bottom of containers will avoid accidentally washing away seeds and greatly reduce the odds of fungal&nbsp;diseases. This is easily done by placing containers in a tray filled with water. Cover cells tightly with plastic wrap. 
3 Set in a warm, cozy spot, out of direct sunlight. (The top of your refrigerator is ideal.) Check periodically and water as necessary. Keep an eye&nbsp;out for "damping off," an airborne fungal disease that thrives when seed trays&nbsp;are kept in cool, damp, dark locations. You'll recognize it by a characteristic white mold layer on the soil surface. If this happens, scrape it off and allow medium to dry completely between waterings. 
4 When seedlings pop up, remove the plastic wrap and place containers in bright sun or, even better, under fluorescent lamps, for 14 hours daily. Temperatures of 65-75 degrees will ensure best results for most plants. Remove&nbsp;weakest seedlings. 
5 A week before transplanting into the garden, begin to "harden off" plants by placing them outdoors each day. Pick a shady spot protected from wind and&nbsp;start with a half-hour, adding an hour of exposure each day until they're&nbsp;getting eight hours of outdoor exposure daily. Continue watering. 
Recycle to create seed pots 
You can save money by recycling newspapers into seed-starting pots. It's easy, it's free and planting the entire biodegradable pot will virtually eliminate chances of transplant shock. (Newsprint ink is generally nontoxic.) Here's how: 
&nbsp;1 Fold a newspaper sheet in half lengthwise. Fold it again. 
2 Place a tomato paste can along one edge of the newspaper, a couple of inches from the bottom. Roll the newspaper tightly around the can. 
3 Fold the excess newspaper at the bottom of the can into the newly created tube. 
4 Set the wrapped can right-side up and press down on it, twisting a bit, to shape the bottom. 
5 Remove the can. 
Danger of frost dictates start time 
Some seed packets advise starting seeds indoors a set number of weeks before the average last frost date, and depending on where you live - even within <a href="/topics/Long_Island%2C_NY">Long Island</a> - that date varies. 
In western <a href="/topics/Nassau">Nassau</a> County and <a href="/topics/Queens">Queens</a>, the average last frost date is April 10. 
In Eastern <a href="/topics/Nassau_County%2C_NY">Nassau</a> and most of <a href="/topics/Suffolk">Suffolk</a>, the average is April 20. There's a small part of <a href="/topics/Suffolk_County%2C_NY">Suffolk</a>, in the center of the Island around the pine barrens, that remains cooler. Folks who live there should wait at least a week longer. 
Now that you know your average last frost date, count back the number of weeks recommended on your seed packet. That's when you should start your seeds indoors to ensure they grow big and strong enough to transplant outdoors at the right time, allowing a week or so for hardening off. 
But if the instructions read, "When the danger of frost has passed," that's a different story, as the average last frost date doesn't guarantee anything. 
In our area, the danger of frost is considered to have passed in early to mid-May in Nassau and mid- to late May in Suffolk. 
I like to wait until <a href="/topics/Memorial_Day">Memorial Day</a>, just to be safe. As a coincidental bonus, you have a nice long weekend to get the garden going.

LFDAMIANO

How to start seeds indoors

xliSUN25

Thinking of replacing your lawn? Here's everything you need to do to ensure your ground cover will flourish.

ny-home-groundcover-gallery

How to plant ground cover

Keep your money in your wallet: propagating plants with cuttings is easier than you might think. Here's how: <object height="294" width="485"> <param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/-WK0Oj6NZG0?hl=en&amp;fs=1"> <param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"> <param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"><embed height="294" width="485" src="http://www.youtube.com/v/-WK0Oj6NZG0?hl=en&amp;fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true"></object>

Garden Minute video: Save money on plants

Garden Minute video: Make plants for free with cuttings

As I browsed through the myriad garden catalogs piling up on the horizontal filing cabinet that doubles as my dining room table, looking for interesting new plants and products, the exorbitant price of some new planters really made an impression. 
 A shabby-chic whitewashed terra-cotta pot -- just 6 inches in diameter -- was being peddled for $68. A "handcrafted" painted number (admittedly very pretty) was going for $89. 
 So this puts me in an awkward position: I don't want to spend that much for glorified terra-cotta, but I don't want to settle for ho-hum clay pots, either. What's more, I certainly don't have time to painstakingly handcraft anything, and I'm guessing you don't, either. 
 But Natalie over at <a href="http://natalme.com" target="_blank">natalme.com</a> showed me that I can save a bunch of money and make some real lookers in less than the time it would take to drive to the garden center or boot up my computer for an online shopping spree. Here are three of my favorites. 
 The boring before: an 8 1/4 inch pot ($2.98 at <a href="/topics//Home_Depot,_Inc.">Home Depot</a>) 
 Ombre pot 
 Ombre, the fading of one color into another, is most evident these days on the heads of young girls and celebrities. When it's brown fading into blonde at the ends, it looks like someone is in desperate need of a root touch-up. When it's a natural color of any shade fading into, say, magenta or green, it's clear this was deliberate. When it's on a planter, it's expensive. But not if you make it yourself. 
 Using three somewhat related shades of spray paint, spritz the top and bottom of the pot with two different colors, all the way around. When dry, hold the pot at the top rim and slowly rotate as you spray the middle with the third color. (If you don't like the result, no harm done: Just let it dry and start over.) 
 Twine pot 
 Twine lends an earthy, rustic vibe to planters. Step one: Hold pot. Step two: Glue the twine on. Step three: Done. (Natalie recommends using Gorilla glue because glue-gun glue tends to melt in the sun, but if you're making this for indoor use, use whatever adhesive you want.) 
 Distressed whitewashed pot 
 Dip a very damp rag into white latex paint. Rub the rag in straight lines around the pot in an advancing spiral from top to bottom (or bottom to top). Immediately apply a second layer. Allow to dry, then -- here's the fun part -- rub a handful of soil over the paint. 
 Garden club of the week 
 American Rhododendron SocietyMeets:MonthlyLocation: Planting Fields Arboretum 
 Dues: $40 annually 
 Contact: 631-689-9498, <a href="http://nyrhododendron.org/" target="_blank">nyrhododendron.org/</a> 
 The Long Island-based <a href="/topics//New_York_(state)">New York</a> chapter of the national society aims to encourage interest in and share knowledge about rhododendrons and azaleas through education, publications, scientific studies, research, meetings (September-May) and other activities. Members participate in seed exchanges, tour local gardens, participate in plant sales, volunteer for various group initiatives, hold an annual flower show and attend an annual convention.

LFDAMIANO10.WEB

Garden Detective: super-easy pretty pots

Twine pot

twine-CROPPED

The people behind my house have poison ivy growing on their property. It has reached my 6-foot stockade fence and has climbed over to my property. We are highly allergic. Is there something I can do to kill what is on my fence and property? -- <a href="/topics/Pat_Burke">Pat Burke</a>, Medford 
&nbsp;Poison ivy (Toxicodendron radicans) is a nasty vining plant that contains urushiols, which cause an itchy, blistering dermatitis to those unfortunate enough to brush up against it. The urushiols remain a threat all year long, even on dormant plants that have lost their leaves, and can be transmitted to humans via gardening tools, clothing and pets. Even bona fide dead vines contain the toxin. It's good to know, though, that regardless of how ugly and contagious the rash looks, you can't catch it from touching someone else's rash. The plant grows on a vine just under the soil surface and can climb as high as 30 feet up trees and walls and along fences, attaching itself via aerial roots. 
<a href="http://www.newsday.com/lifestyle/home-and-garden/identifying-poison-ivy-1.1691413">&gt;&gt;Photos: Poison ivy in every season</a> 
The first step in avoiding the plant is being able to identify it properly. Look at the photos on this page. Notice the leaves are made up of three leaflets apiece (hence, the childhood rhyme: "Leaves of three, let it be.") Even so, identification can be a challenge to the uninitiated. Though the leaves are always composed of three leaflets, their shapes can vary, and their edges can be smooth, lobed or toothed. 
If you're certain you're dealing with poison ivy, you'll need to approach your neighbor about removing it, because pulling up the portion of the plant that has invaded your property will provide only a short-term solution, and it will only be a matter of time before it works its way to your side of the fence again. 
The most effective means of removing poison ivy is to uproot it in March, after the freeze-thaw cycles of winter have softened the ground. Since you're allergic, this is not something you should take on yourself. You also should be careful to avoid contact with any tools or clothing used during the job. Long sleeves, pants and gloves should be worn, and all clothing carefully removed afterward, so as not to allow it to come into contact with skin. Clothes should be put directly into the washer and the handler should take a shower immediately. I recommend washing with Tecnu soap, which does a good job of removing traces of the resins. 
Proper disposal is critical. Poison ivy should never be burned because the smoke would contain toxins that, when inhaled, would cause what would amount to a poison ivy rash in your lungs. It's not pretty. Bag the ivy up tightly and set it out with the trash. 
Nonselective herbicides containing triclopyr or glyphosate can be used to kill the plant when it begins to grow in spring, but be aware that they also will kill every other plant in the area, including grass. Generally, the sprays are applied to leaves, which should wilt within a day, turn brown in three days and die within a couple of weeks. But repeat applications are often necessary. Always read and follow label directions carefully. 
If you have a lot of poison ivy, consider calling in a poison ivy removal expert to protect yourself and to ensure its complete eradication.

LFDAMIANO10

How to eliminate poison ivy

lfDAMIANO

This week, let's look at the best way to plant tomatoes to ensure you grow healthy plants and reap the biggest harvests. And after you've grown your whopper, be sure to join the 2011 Great Long Island Tomato Challenge, which will be held at 7 p.m. on Friday, Aug. 26, at Newsday headquarters in Melville (235 Pinelawn Road). All you have to do is show up with your biggest tomato. I'll weigh each entry personally and you might be crowned Tomato King or Queen. 
<iframe height="294" frameborder="0" width="485" allowfullscreen src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Nrkh9ygv6VA"></iframe>

Gardening Minute: How to plant tomatoes

Gardening Minute video: How to plant tomatoes

Growing tomatoes on Long Island can be quite a challenge because our weather conditions are so inconsistent. "Since weather conditions in Long Island seem to have extreme fluctuations and seasonal differences," tomato growers are often at the mercy of the climate, Julie Seghrouchni, horticulture educator for the Cornell Cooperative Extension of Nassau&nbsp;County, explained. But, she added, "you can have success by following best growing practices and cultural conditions." 
Tomatoes are sun-loving plants, and direct, unobstructed sunlight for a minimum of 6 hours daily is essential for the best fruit production. The cloudless days, strong heat and bright sunshine this year were ideal for growing tomatoes successfully, she said - if gardeners were diligent about keeping the soil evenly moist at all times. Seghrouchni warned that keeping the soil soggy or allowing it to dry out between waterings would lead to disappointing results. Consistency is key. 
Cold, hard or poorly drained soil will not grow a good crop, she said. To get a good crop in the parts of Long Island with heavier clay soil, like that throughout much of the North Shore, soil should be amended with large quantities of organic matter like compost or well-rotted manure before planting. 
And Long Island soil tends to be on the acidic side, so a soil pH test always should be conducted before planting, and dolomitic lime added, especially if the pH registers below 6.2. If the vegetable bed is near a fertilized lawn, Seghrouchni cautioned, plants could be subjected to excess nitrogen, which would boost plant growth at the expense of fruit production, so gardeners should consider either relocating the bed or adjusting fertilizer treatments.

LFCOVBOX05

How to grow tomatoes on Long Island

lfCOVtomato

You can save money by recycling newspapers into seed-starting pots. It's easy, it's free, and planting the entire biodegradable pot will virtually eliminate chances of transplant shock. (Newsprint ink is generally nontoxic.) Here's how:

Video: How to make a newspaper seed pot

This week's Gardening Minute video: Make a newspaper seed pot 

newspaper seed pot 

Herbs are fragrant, they're useful in the kitchen, the medicine cabinet and in commerce, and the best part is they're really easy to grow. Whether they're annuals or perennials, just give them neutral soil, plenty of sun and a well-drained site, and they'll reward you with intoxicating scents as you walk past them, delicious culinary ingredients to cook with and essential oils to de-stress with. Some even can repel pests. No need to fertilize or fuss in any way. Just plant, water and enjoy. The most challenging part will be deciding which to grow. 
Here's how to start your own herb garden this spring, in three easy steps: 
Test your soil. Herbs grow best when the soil pH is neutral - around 7.0. Test kits are widely available, but it's best to let master gardeners at <a href="/topics/Long_Island%2C_NY">Long Island</a>'s Cornell Cooperative Extension offices test soil for you. For a nominal fee, the test comes with horticultural advice so you'll know exactly what amendments to add and how much, if necessary. (Call 516-228-0426 in <a href="/topics/Nassau_County%2C_NY">Nassau</a>; 631-727-4126 in <a href="/topics/Suffolk_County%2C_NY">Suffolk</a>). 
Decide where to plant. Choose a site that gets full sun (a minimum of 6 hours of direct sunlight daily) and has soil that drains well. If your soil tends to be soggy, you can improve drainage by incorporating a generous helping of compost if the problem is mild or, for severely soggy soil, by digging down at least a foot, adding a layer of crushed stone topped with a layer of a sand-and-compost mixture and then replacing the soil you removed. The soil level should be a bit higher than when you started because it will settle over time. 
Plant seedlings or sow seeds. Some herbs can be started indoors or planted by seed directly into the garden, while nursery-grown transplants are preferable for others that don't germinate well (See list below). Either way, simply plant according to the spacing requirements on the plant tag or seed pack and water as necessary, keeping in mind that most herbs do best when soil is on the dry side. 
<h3>11 great herbs to try</h3> 
Basil. Annual. Frequently used as an ingredient in tomato dishes and in Italian recipes. Also repels asparagus beetles, bean beetles, flies and mosquitoes. Grow from seed or transplants. 
Chamomile. Annual. Pick tiny daisylike flowers and brew into a tea to soothe an upset stomach or calm nerves. Grow from seeds pressed into soil but not covered, or from transplants. 
Chives. Perennial. Flowers and stems are used in salads and whenever an onionlike flavor is desired. Repels aphids and Japanese beetles, protecting grapes, roses, carrots and tomatoes. 
Dill. Seeds and leaves are edible, often used in Greek recipes, in sauerkraut, sour cream dips and with cucumbers, fish and meat dishes. Very easy to grow, but snip with scissors for the best flavor. Repels cabbageworms, cabbage loopers and tomato hornworms, so plant with cabbage, lettuce, onions and tomatoes, but keep apart from fennel; they don't play nice together. 
Garlic. Annual. Peel cloves and use whole or crushed in meat, poultry and fish dishes, sauces and in Italian, French and Asian recipes. Separate cloves (but don't peel) and plant each individually in fall. Plants will sprout in spring and be ready for harvesting in July. Repels aphids, Japanese beetles, rabbits, spider mite and vampires. 
Lavender. Perennial. Great for making sachets and potpourri, for baking into cakes and cookies, and for flavoring tea. Propagate by cuttings or buy transplants because seeds don't always come true. Trim lightly after flowers fade or cut back to new growth in spring. 
Mint. Everlasting perennial that will take over the world if permitted. Really. Keep mint contained in a pot, and keep the pot away from soil, because it has been know to escape. Once mint gets into the garden, it spreads by underground runners that send up new plants, and can be difficult to eradicate. Use to make jelly and mojitos; cook with peas, carrots or potatoes; and add leaves to iced tea. Try banana, ginger, grapefruit, pineapple and chocolate mint. Repels ants, flea beetles and mice. 
Parsley. Annual or biennial. Vitamin rich and flavorful, parsley even freshens breath when leaves are chewed. Best grown from purchased transplants. Repels asparagus beetle, carrot flies. 
Rosemary. Perennial, but often not hardy in <a href="/topics/Long_Island%2C_NY">Long Island</a> gardens. Used in poultry, pork and lamb dishes. Repels bean beetles, carrot flies and mosquitoes. 
Sage. Annual and perennial varieties available. Used in poultry, duck, pork sausages and stuffings. Repels cabbage loopers, cabbage maggots and carrot flies. 
Thyme. Perennial. Cooked in meat and fish dishes. There are many different varieties, including a ground cover and lemon and lime scented thymes. Repels cabbageworms, cabbage loopers and whiteflies.

News

LFDAMIANO23.WEB

How to grow an herb garden

DEAR JESSICA: I've been noticing since spring that many lawns appear to have small circles of brown spots. Do you know what the cause and treatment might be?Fran Abbott, Mount Sinai 
DEAR FRAN:Several factors can cause brown spots on the lawn, so I can't say with any certainty what the cause and treatment might be for what you're seeing. But I can provide information on some common reasons this could be happening, and then you can do your own sleuthing. 
Let's start with the simplest possible culprit and work our way up: Do you have a dog? Households with canine family members, especially female ones, often have brown spots all over their grass, caused by the ammonia content in urine. 
My lawn is one of the many on Long Island plagued with such spots, which I've just learned to accept. The spots can be countered by hosing the area immediately after it's sullied or by applying a small dose of lime to the spots each and every time your dog does its business. The most practical solution is to walk the dog on a leash, which I, for one, am not willing to do. 
Common turf problems 
Brown patch is a disease of rye, tall fescue, fine fescue and <a href="/topics/Kentucky">Kentucky</a> bluegrass turfs. Symptoms include brown patches that range between six and 20 inches in diameter that may have a purplish-gray "smoke ring" border or "frog-eye" pattern with green grass in the center. This can be exacerbated by overuse of nitrogen fertilizer. Preventive measures include aerating the lawn, watering deeply and infrequently (versus a daily light sprinkling), and ensuring proper drainage. 
Dollar spot manifests as silver-dollar size straw-colored spots on a freshly mowed lawn (the shape will appear more irregular on longer grass). Telltale signs include a white fungus that resembles cobwebs early in the morning when dew is present, and straw-colored lesions with reddish-brown borders on grass blades. To help prevent dollar spot, don't mow grass too short; keep it at 3 to 4 inches, and never mow more than one-third its length in one mowing. Water only early in the day and don't overfertilize. 
Leaf spot usually rears its ugly head during cool, cloudy, wet springs and falls. It presents as reddish-purple spots on leaves that create a gradual browning and thinning appearance in the lawn. As spots grow bigger, their color fades to light brown or beige, sometimes surrounded with a dark border. To help prevent leaf spot, follow best mowing and watering practices (see above) and avoid overfertilizing. 
Pythium blight, also called cottony blight, can appear to come out of nowhere during hot, humid weather. This isn't likely what you noticed in spring, but it can be identified by a telltale slimy or greasy water-soaked lawn and the presence of patches that are less than 6 inches in diameter. Blight-causing spores can hitch a ride on shoes and, worse, on lawn mowers, to infect other parts of your lawn or other lawns entirely. To help prevent pythium blight, avoid mowing grass when it's wet, don't cut too short, water only in the morning and apply a balanced fertilizer (not a high-nitrogen product). Check the soil's pH and maintain a level in the neutral to slightly acidic range, between 6.0 and 7.0.

Garden Detective: Treating lawn brown spots

DEAR JESSICA: I have potted outdoor hibiscus plants that I bought this past spring. Right now each plant looks like a small tree with dead green leaves. I wanted to know if they will come back next spring. If it’s not too late can I winterize them if necessary? 
— Lisa Heymann, 
Plainview 
 
DEAR LISA: To answer your question — it’s too late. Hibiscus are tropical plants, which, by definition, means they won’t survive our winters. Your plant should have been brought indoors in September, before the threat of frost. Given the weather we’ve had this past month, it’s a safe assumption your plants are dead. 
 
DEAR JESSICA: I read your reader’s concern about oak trees holding onto their leaves this late in the season. I also have oak trees on my property and have been a long-suffering homeowner who cleans leaves into January. You stated in your column that young trees hold the leaves as a protective mechanism. My trees are very mature and probably 60-plus years old. You also mentioned “infertile soil.” What does this mean and how can I find out if my soil is not in good condition? 
— Craig Torswick, 
Levittown 
 
Dear Craig: I’m glad you asked before going ahead and applying fertilizer around your oaks, as it’s important to confirm the soil is lacking the trees’ required nutrients first. Each plant has specific nutritional requirements, and what’s beneficial to one species may cause problems with another. For instance, too much nitrogen, a main component of many fertilizer products, could force an abundance of structurally weak growth, which could make your oaks susceptible to damage and disease. 
Because neither of us knows the nutrient makeup of your soil, it’s important to have it tested before proceeding. I recommend you send a sample to Agro-One Soil Laboratory in upstate Ithaca, which will provide an analysis of your soil, as well as recommendations for correcting any imbalances. Visit <a href="http://dairyone.com/analytical-services/agronomy-services/soil-testing/">nwsdy.li/soiltest</a> or call 800-344-2697 to order a mailing box, obtain instructions for soil collection and submission, and get information about fees. 
 
DEAR JESSICA: I read your article earlier this month about wrapping fig trees, and I am somewhat confused. You stated to unwrap it on a cloudy day in April, after the last frost. I was always told that the last frost meant May 15 on Long Island. That is when the tomatoes and hot peppers go in the ground. Was I misled by my nurseries all these years? 
— Eric S. Rosenblum, 
Levittown 
 
DEAR ERIC: You weren’t misled, and it’s true that tomatoes, peppers and other summer vegetables should not be planted unprotected until at least the middle of May, which is when the danger of frost is considered to have passed. I should have specified that mid-April is when the “average” last frost date falls on Long Island, which is different. That date, specifically April 15, is applied to the rule for uncovering figs, because the earlier this is done, the greater the chances that the tree will mature all its fruits. It’s a balancing act, to be sure, because if uncovered too early, a spring frost could damage or kill the fruit.

LFDAMIANO1224

Where to send a soil sample, when is the average last frost and is there hope for a frozen hibiscus?

Testing soil for nutrients can help troubleshoot problems

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DEAR JESSICA: I am wondering if you can help me out with some information on this plant. I received it about three years ago, and it has hardly grown. I don’t know what kind of plant it is or how to care for it. I did have it in my office, out of direct sun, but now it is in my home. Please help, as this plant has a special meaning to me.
— Nancy Labella,
Mastic
DEAR NANCY: What you have is a Beaucarnea recurvata, commonly known as ponytail palm. Despite its moniker, your plant isn’t a palm at all; it’s in the asparagus family.
Ponytail palms are commonly grown as house or office plants in small pots, oftentimes in shallow pebble-topped dishes, such as yours. However, if allowed adequate outdoor space and time (and the right climate), they will develop into full-grown trees.
If you chose to keep your plant small, I would advise you to keep it in a small, shallow pot, which would ensure it remained stunted. But because you point out that it hasn’t grown in three years, my assumption is that you’d like for it to be full-sized, which, as a house plant, would be about 6 feet tall. Still, you should know that this is a slow-growing plant and that it will take many years to reach maturity.
In spring, repot the plant into a slightly larger container using rich, well-draining, fresh potting mix. Avoid the temptation to jump straight to a large pot, which would deliver too much water at a time to the drought-loving plant. Ponytail palms benefit from being a bit root-bound, and thrive when repotted every spring (or every other spring) into a pot that’s only 1 or 2 inches wider than its current container.
Provide the brightest light available, but take care not to overwater. Plunge your finger knuckle-deep into the soil to check for dryness at root level and water only when needed, roughly once every 7 to 14 days during the growing season and about once a month over winter. Apply a slow-release fertilizer once in spring, or feed with a liquid product regularly during the growing season, according to package directions.
DEAR JESSICA: I have four Knockout rose bushes, which seem to be growing wild. When is the best time to trim them or shape them? I also have a rambling rose bush that I would like to trim down. Any advice?
— Violet Sardo,
Woodbury
DEAR VIOLET: Knockout roses are pretty tough and can typically handle a light trimming any time during spring or summer, but extensive pruning should be done only in late winter or very early spring, just before the plants come out of dormancy. You can reduce the length of each cane all the way down to 12 inches, if necessary, making cuts at 45-degree angles, one-quarter inch above buds. To further control their height, you can cut them back again — by one-third their size — immediately after the first bloom.
Rambling roses can be tidied up in late summer, but, again, full prunings should be reserved for late winter or very early spring. Completely remove one-third of the oldest stems, and cut side shoots back by two-thirds of their length. If the plant is severely overgrown and requires a complete overhaul — called a rejuvenation pruning — cut most of the branches down to ground level, leaving just six strong, healthy stems. Cut down those remaining stems by half, which will encourage branching and result in a fuller plant, then tie them to supports.
Fertilize and mulch pruned plants in spring, as soon as they begin to come out of dormancy.
DEAR JESSICA: I have two Hydrangea macrophylla plants that were attacked by the early frost before the leaves had a chance to dry up and fall off naturally. The leaves are dark and limp, and I don’t think they will fall off. I’m not sure if I should remove the leaves or let nature take its course. I tried removing a couple of them, and part of the leaf started to peel down the stalk. Any suggestions?
— Patricia Beck,
North Babylon
DEAR PATRICIA: Let nature take its course. In spring, when new growth begins, you can remove any dead plant matter.

LFDAMIANO1217

How to care for a ponytail palm houseplant, when to prune roses and how to help frost-bitten hydrangeas

How to care for a ponytail palm, more

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Fig trees are very sensitive creatures:
<ul>
 <li>Sensitive to the cold, so they need winter protection;</li>
 <li>Sensitive to drought, so they need regular supplemental water;</li>
 <li>Sensitive to nitrogen, so as long as your tree is growing a foot or two per year you should minimize it;</li>
 <li>Sensitive to nutrition, so you should definitely fertilize with phosphorus and potassium (the last two numbers in the ratio on the package label) at a rate of one pound per year of age or height of tree, up to a maximum of 10 or 12 pounds annually, divided into two feedings (once when buds swell and again at the end of May). </li>
</ul>
Couple this with the reality that they are Mediterranean plants and we don’t live in a Mediterranean climate, plus the prevalence of many varieties, some of which simply don’t do well on Long Island for many reasons — and some growers simply throw up their hands.
Still, many other plants are capricious, a lot of them more so than the fig, and they are grown regularly and successfully on Long Island, so none of the above should serve as a deterrent.
First, be sure you select a variety that will thrive here. “Brown turkey” and “Celeste” are common choices. Buying a tree or taking a cutting while on vacation in Florida isn’t likely to yield successful results. When in doubt, have a chat with your nursery professional.
Plant during spring in well-draining soil in a protected spot (up against a wall or fence is ideal) with a southern exposure. Test the soil’s pH before planting, as figs require a reading between 6.2 and 7.2. If your soil tests lower, incorporate dolomitic lime according to package directions.
Apply a couple of inches of mulch in a circle around the tree, taking care to start 3-4 inches from the trunk and extending out at least as far as the canopy. Provide a constant supply of moisture throughout the growing season, and fertilize with a 5-10-10 or 0-10-10 slow-release fertilizer twice per season, as indicated above.
Trees must be protected over the winter, or they may die back to the ground — or die entirely. If they die back merely to the ground, new growth will resume in spring, but the plant will focus its energy on regrowing, leaving little to none for fruit production.
The ideal time to wrap a fig tree is during Thanksgiving week. Here’s how (never use any plastic materials for any part of the process):
1. If your tree is large, pull all branches inward and tie them together with soft but strong rope. Be sure the rope and branches are completely dry before wrapping. Wait a few days after rainfall, if necessary.
2. Wrap the tree completely from top to bottom with burlap, securing the burlap to itself with pins or staples to keep it from falling off. Be careful not to pin or staple the burlap to the tree.
3. Next, wrap some heavy brown paper, typically sold in rolls, around the burlap and tie it into place.
4. Remove some soil from around the base of the tree.
5. Surround the bottom half of the tree with cardboard. Tie it into place, too.
6. Tar paper is next. Surround the tree with it in such a way that the top of the cylinder is narrower than the bottom so that rainwater will roll off it and away from the tree.
7. Once you’ve completely wrapped your tree, mound up soil around the base.
8. Top it off with a pail to deflect rainwater. Unwrap your fig tree on a cloudy day in April, just after the last frost.
Fruit is produced on the current season’s growth, so during the first few years after planting, trees should be cut back by one-third to one-half their size immediately after unwrapping. This will encourage them to grow into a bushy form, rather than an upright tree, and facilitate care, harvesting and wrapping in the future.
To see my video demonstration of the entire process, visit <a href="https://www.newsday.com/lifestyle/home-and-garden/gardening-101-1.2292851">newsday.com/gardening101</a>.

LFDAMIANO1203

It’s time to wrap the fig tree: Here’s how

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If your grass is looking shabby, a little bit of work now will ensure a thick, lower-maintenance lawn for years to come. The ideal time to renovate your lawn is late August through mid-September, so get cracking. 

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1. Adjust the pH

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2. Core aeration

3. Enrich

4. Seed

ISTOCK

5. Water

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It's time to renovate your lawn -- here's how

Are you paying a premium for granola with half a cup of dried fruit? Tired of picking through the bag to avoid that one dried fruit you don’t like? Don’t bother with that overpriced, over-sweetened dried fruit from a bag, when you can make it healthier and more delicious right at home. 
<a href="http://www.birdsandblooms.com/gardening/fruit-and-vegetable-gardening/dry-fruit-seasons/" target="_blank">Birds &amp; Blooms Magazine</a> has shared three easy steps for drying your own fruit that eliminate the need for fancy dehydrators. All you’ll need is a standard gas or electric oven. 
&nbsp;Here’s how: 
Preparing: Select fruit that is ripe but not overripe and is free of bruises. Apples, pears, peaches, berries, cherries, bananas and apricots all work well. Wash and peel the fruit (cherries and apricots work best if dried with the skins on). Remove pits or cores, then slice fruit to desired thickness; make sure to keep the thickness uniform. 
Drying: Heat the oven to 170 degrees. Position two racks in the center of the oven. Arrange fruit slices or whole small fruits in a single layer on nonstick baking sheets, making sure the pieces aren’t touching. Keep the oven door slightly ajar during drying and stir fruit every 30 minutes. It can take from four to eight hours to dry out fruit, depending on the thickness of the slices and the fruit’s water content. 
Storing: Once the fruit is thoroughly dried, remove trays from the oven and let stand at room temperature for at least 12 hours before placing in storage containers. 
&nbsp; 
&nbsp;

How to make dried fruit at home

ny-dryfruit

For those who prefer the faded color of dried hydrangeas commonly sold at florist shops and home decor stores, waiting until the end of summer to cut and dry the blooms is ideal. But because you want to retain the brightness of the color, you should cut them when the color is at its peak -- and do so in the morning. To dry hydrangeas, simply place in a vase without water and let nature take its course. There is no reason to hang them upside down, as some do, unless the stems are too weak to hold blossoms upright in the vase. This method is the easiest -- and least expensive -- but you should expect a bit of color fading. 
 To retain the brightest color, try drying the flowers in silica gel, which you can find at craft stores. Silica gel is not really a gel; it's those crystal granules that fill the little moisture-absorbing packets that come with shoes and electronics. Here's how to use it to preserve your flowers: 
 Add about an inch or two of silica gel to a plastic food-storage container. The size you use is determined by how many flowers you want to fit in there at once, taking care not to crowd them or their shape will become distorted. You also can use multiple containers, preserving one bloom in each. 
 Snip the stem down to about 2 inches, and place the flower upside-down atop the silica gel. Scoop some granules over the underside of petals, and then carefully add more granules until the container is about half full and the flower is completely covered. 
 Snap on the container lid and leave undisturbed for four days, then gingerly pour out the silica gel and remove the flower(s). 
 Use in wreaths and arrangements as they are; to display in a vase, tape dried stems onto the shortened stems with florist tape.

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Dried flowers: how to do it yourself

lfDAMIANO-CROPPED

When you think of planting spring bulbs in fall, chances are you envision placing them in neat rows or clusters between perennials, under roses or around shrubs. You can do that, for sure, but you also should consider naturalizing them.
To naturalize bulbs simply means to plant them in such a way so they appear to have sprouted without any human intervention. That means no single-file planting (an unfortunate practice even if not naturalizing) or carefully orchestrated groupings. 
Naturalizing can be accomplished in established beds and borders or in barren sections of the yard. Sometimes, if considered carefully, it can even be done right in the lawn. The goal is to keep things informal and maintain the illusion that the whole thing was unplanned.
When planting in the lawn, it’s important to select only bulbs that bloom early or very early because, as with all bulb plants, their foliage must not be cut down until it withers and browns on its own. That’s because leaves serve a vital purpose, working hard to photosynthesize, or produce food to use for energy in order to bloom the following year. If you cut them back too soon, you’ll essentially starve your plants. And since you probably won’t want to be the only neighbor on the block with foot-tall grass because you’re waiting for your tulips to die back before taking out the mower, it’s best to avoid plants that will grow into lawn season.
The best bulbs for naturalizing are ones that will multiply and gradually spread out over the years. Good choices for use in the lawn are snowdrops, white squill, crocus, grape hyacinth, glory of the snow, blue squill and early daffodils, such as February gold.
The simplest — and most fun — way to naturalize is to toss handfuls of bulbs into the air and plant them exactly where they land, with a little readjustment if necessary. The goal is to create drifts instead of rows or clusters. 
To organize the chaos a bit, you might outline an area with a garden hose or rope and stand in it when you toss your bulbs. If you’re creating a mixed bed, toss the larger bulbs first and work your way down to the smallest. Stand back and assess your handiwork. Reposition for spacing, if necessary, and set them pointy end up. For extra informality, set a few bulbs outside the boundary, just for good measure.
When all your bulbs are in place, dig them in, one by one, using a spade, bulb planter or auger, taking care to observe recommended planting depths for each bulb. Add a half-teaspoon of granulated 5-10-5 fertilizer to each planting hole, along with a small handful of crushed oyster shells to discourage squirrels and other critters from disturbing your handiwork. There are no guarantees when it comes to critters, but they do find the texture of the shells irritating and will find it unpleasant to dig there. As a bonus, the shells will leach nutrients into the ground that will nourish the bulbs.
Cover bulbs with soil, tamp down and water well. Then sit back and wait for the compliments to roll in come spring.

LFDAMIANO1009

How to plant bulbs in your lawn for a colorful spring

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With a little care, you can save most tropical plants over the winter for replanting next year. Here's how. 

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Canna, Colocasia (elephant ears), Caladium plants

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Hibiscus, Brugmansia (angel trumpet) plants

Brugmansia (angel trumpet)

Mandevilla

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Banana

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How to overwinter tropical plants

I purchased two &nbsp;"elephant ears" and planted them &nbsp;in the pots I purchased them in. I was told it would be easier to store for the winter, seeing&nbsp;I bought them a few weeks ago. How do you store them for winter? I have read many different ways, and I was wondering in your opinion which&nbsp;is best? --James Hoffman 
 Hi, James!&nbsp; 
 It's easy to overwinter elephant ears indoors. Just bring the pots inside and&nbsp;treat as houseplants near a sunny window, watering often and fertilizing&nbsp;occasionally with&nbsp;ordinary houseplant fertilizer diluted to half strength. 
 If they are large and you don't have enough room to house them, or if they had been growing in the ground, leave them outdoors until the first light frost turns foliage brown, then cut plants down to 6 inches and dig them up. Rinse, "bulblets" and allow to air dry completely, then place in peat moss in a box in which you've cut out some holes for ventilation. Place in a cool, dark place, such as a crawl space or cellar. 
 Check monthly and spritz with water if they look like they're starting to shrivel. Discard rotted roots. Plant outdoors around <a href="http://www.newsday.com/topics/Memorial_Day">Memorial Day</a>, or to give them a head start, pot them up in potting mix in April and set them by your sunniest window or under grow lights, keeping the soil lightly moist. Good luck!

How to overwinter elephant ears

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Because dahlias are tropical plants, they won't survive winter outdoors in New York. So, here in zone 7, we either treat them as annuals or dig up and store their tubers in a frost-free place until spring. If you grew dahlias you'd like to enjoy again next year, overwintering them is easy. Here's what to do:
 
Digging
Wait until just after the first killing frost (you'll notice the top of the plant turning black) and cut plants back to 4 inches and dig up a wide enough area to ensure including the entire root zone.
Clump
Remove soil from root clumps by hand, but don't shake them; they're fragile.
Drying and packing
Place tubers in a dry basement, or outdoors on a screen rack or in a dry shady spot for a few days to dry. Gently wipe any remaining soil from tubers and tag them, if you have different varieties, for easy identification in the spring.
Put four cups of vermiculite, sphagnum peat moss, wood shavings or sawdust into a gallon-size produce bag. These bags have pinholes spaced about a half-inch apart to allow for air circulation. Add tubers.
Pack the bags into a wood, cardboard or plastic box, and cover it to ensure complete darkness. Store at 40-45 degrees.
Check tubers monthly. If you notice any beginning to shrivel, sprinkle water onto packing material. If any of them are more than slightly shriveled, you can try to resuscitate them by soaking them in a pail of water overnight. If they plump up, pat dry and return to storage. Discard rotted or molding tubers and air out the bag and box they were in. Expect to lose 10 percent of all tubers stored.
Plant your dahlias outside around Memorial Day, in a spot that gets at least six hours of sunlight daily. To give them a head start, plant them in pots indoors, kept by a sunny window, about a month before transplanting time.

LFDAMIANO25

Overwintering dahlias in 3 easy steps

Long Island Dahlia Society show 10.10-10.11

A few readers have written about digging up geraniums and storing them indoors over the winter. If you plant a lot of geraniums every year, this can save you a lot of money, but if you've just got two or three in pots by the front door, you might not want to bother. 
You can simply bring the pots inside and treat them as houseplants, but they'll likely grow leggy and sickly, so this isn't your best option.&nbsp; 
Instead, before the first frost, dig them up, shake the loose soil off and place each plant into a paper bag. Take them out once a month over the winter and soak the roots in water for an hour or two, then place them back into their bags.&nbsp; 
In late March, cut the plants back, removing any dead or limp stems, and pot them up. Keep them by a sunny window and resume watering until May, when you can bring them outdoors.

How to overwinter geraniums

ny-geranium

I'm getting a lot of end-of-season gardening questions, so I'm going to dedicate this whole week to the mailbag and share the questions with the most universal appeal. Today's letter comes from Shirley. 
Hi Jessica, 
I bought two fig trees earlier this year and was planning to plant them next year (or maybe waiting until the year after). I have them in my basement right now and was wondering what I have to do to keep them from dying. 
They looked OK when I brought them in, &nbsp;but they are not looking so good now. The leaves are falling off after turning a weird looking yellow. I have not watered them very much either. Do I have to cover them in the basement? The temp stays around 50 degrees all year long. 
Should I feed them or maybe even cut them back? I have zero knowledge about what I would need to do and would like some advice. -- Shirley Hi, Shirley, 
The trees are probably dropping leaves because they're going into dormancy, as they should. It would have been best if you'd left them outdoors until they dropped their leaves naturally, and then wrapped them or brought them indoors around Thanksgiving. But taking &nbsp;them back outside now would mess them up. 
Inside, they should be kept in the dark, so if they're in a basement that you use for other purposes, maybe put them in a closet where they won't be exposed to light. If that's not possible, then wrap them with burlap or towels to block the light. Just don't use plastic. Water very, very slightly over the winter, only when the soil is dry about an inch into the pot (stick your finger in to gauge moisture levels.) 
If this seems like too much trouble, you can move them into the main part of your house, near a sunny window, and water regularly to keep them as houseplants until spring. New leaves should grow if you do this.&nbsp; 
Either way, move them back outdoors in late April and let them slowly adjust to the brighter sunlight by placing them in a protected shady spot for a week. Then move them into an area that's partially sunny for another week, and then into their permanent summer home. Water regularly throughout this process.&nbsp;&nbsp; 
Next year, you might consider doing what I do with my potted figs. I just move them into the garage in late November and drape a blanket over them. No watering or monitoring necessary.&nbsp;

How to overwinter a fig tree indoors

fig tree

Growing figs on&nbsp;Long Island is easy. But getting trees to survive the winter takes a bit of work and dedication. Here's how it's done: 
&nbsp; 
&nbsp; 
Never use any plastic materials for any part of the process. 
1. When the tree is young, for the first few years or two, it’s a good idea to cut it back by half before wrapping. This is safe to do as long as the tree is dormant, which by wrapping time, it should be. 
If your tree is large, pull all branches inward and tie them together with soft but strong rope. Be sure the rope and branches are completely dry before wrapping. Wait a few days after rainfall, if necessary. 
2. Wrap the tree completely from top to bottom with burlap, securing the burlap to itself with pins or staples to keep it from falling off. Be careful not to pin or staple the burlap to the tree. 
3. Next, wrap some heavy brown paper, typically sold in rolls, around the burlap and tie it into place. 
4. Remove some soil from around the base of the tree. 
5. Surround the bottom half of the tree with cardboard. Tie it into place, too. 
6. Tar paper is next. Surround the tree with it so that rainwater will roll off it and away from the tree. 
7. Once you’ve completely wrapped your tree, mound up soil around the base. 
8. Top it off with a pail to deflect rainwater. Unwrap your fig tree on a cloudy day in April, just after the last frost. 
<a href="http://www.newsday.com/lifestyle/home-and-garden/how-to-wrap-a-fig-tree-for-winter-1.1595166">&gt;&gt;See photos of the steps involved in wrapping a fig tree</a>

How to wrap a fig tree for the winter

Wrap in Paper

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