Here's what you need to know to grow and harvest ten fruits that are well-suited for local gardens. -Jessica Damiano

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ny-home-fruit-guide

Fruit is among the most rewarding things a gardener can grow at home. It's nutritious. It's delicious. And in many cases the trees and shrubs are beautiful additions to the home landscape. What's more, you can grow a lot of fruit in a relatively small space. 
Before you plant a fruit-bearing plant or tree, check the plant tag to ensure it's cold hardy to at least zone 7 (6B if you live in the pine barrens area). Otherwise, it won't likely survive winter on Long Island. (The lower the zone number, the higher the cold tolerance.) Select a site that will provide adequate sunlight, and be sure to take into account shade that will be produced by deciduous trees that are currently bare. Remember that fruit plants do not like "wet feet," or soggy roots, so if you have heavy or clay soil, till in generous amounts of compost to a depth of 8 inches to improve drainage. Do the same with sandy soil. And avoid planting at the bottom of a hill or wherever water collects. 
Before planting, take time to eradicate weeds. And, finally, check and correct the soil pH. The listing for each plant specifies the ideal pH range for optimal health and fruit production. If the pH isn't hospitable, the plant will not be able to absorb nutrients from the soil. Keep in mind that it can take a year for such changes to fully work their way into the soil, so ideally, steps to raise or lower pH should be undertaken 12 months before planting, though this isn't absolutely necessary. 
Kits to test for pH are widely available at nurseries and home improvement centers, and local Cornell Cooperative Extension offices will test your soil and provide advice for a nominal fee (call 631-727-4126 in Suffolk; 516-228-0426 in Nassau). Typically, sulfur is added in specific amounts to lower pH (make it more acidic), and lime is added to increase pH (make it more alkaline). Test results will indicate how much should be added per square foot of soil. And if soil is deficient, fertilizers should be added at this time, too, to ensure that nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and other nutrients necessary for growth, pollination and fruiting will be available to the plant as needed. All soil preparations should be done before bringing the plant home. 
Before planting, trim any broken or injured roots. If trees can't be planted immediately, set them in a cool, shady spot and keep watered, but be sure to plant before buds break or leaves grow. If you've purchased a bare-root plant, soaking roots in a pail of water for 6 to 12 hours before planting can be beneficial. If planting a container-grown tree, dig a hole twice as wide but exactly as deep as the pot; for bare-root plants, ensure the hole will accommodate roots in their natural position. Don't skimp on digging. For grafted trees, plant so that the graft union lands 2 inches above ground level. 
Mix more compost in with the backfill and replace soil gradually, periodically stopping to tamp it down firmly as you go. Never add fertilizer to the planting hole; instead, water thoroughly immediately after planting. Incorporate 1 tablespoon of starter fertilizer for each gallon of water. (This is in addition to nutrient corrections made to soil earlier.) Apply 2 inches of mulch around the base of trees, taking care to keep mulch about 2 inches from the trunk. Water regularly throughout the first two growing seasons. 
Be realistic about the amount of time you can dedicate to maintenance: Plants and trees should be monitored daily for pests, disease and moisture levels, and some have other time-consuming requirements such as trellising and pruning. Start smaller than you think you should, maybe with just one or two plants the first year. You'll appreciate a small crop of ripe, juicy, healthy fruit from one tree a lot more than you will cleaning up the rotted, fallen fruit from plants you have neglected because you were overwhelmed. 
Dwarf cultivars are worth considering because they're easier to care for and bear fruit sooner than their full-size counterparts. 
It's important to note that some fruits are self-pollinating; only one plant is needed for fruit production. Others require "male" and "female" plants. (They are noted below.) Many fruits, such as pears and plums, experience "June drop," when developing fruit simply falls from the tree, typically in June. This is not a concern, just the tree's way of reducing an overabundance so the remaining crop can successfully ripen. 
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Columnists

ny-home-fruitintro

What you need to know before you plant fruit

ny-apples

Planting: Best in early spring. After planting a young tree, remove any shoots growing on the bottom 18 inches, and cut the leader, or main central trunk, down to 32 to 36 inches. However, if the tree already has many side branches, cut the leader by only 12 inches from the top. Stake after planting. 
pH range: Apples are adaptable to most soils. 
Years until fruit bearing: 3 to 5 
Pollination: Two or more varieties should be planted to achieve the pollination required for fruit production. 
Pruning: During the first year, when there is about an inch of new growth, choose a strong bud, usually the one just below the leader cut made at planting time, and remove the two or three buds below it, along with any flowers that on the tree. Afterward, when new growth reaches 2 to 4 inches, select several side shoots that are growing from the leader at wide angles, but not directly across from one another, and remove the others. Prune upper branches shorter than lower ones to retain a conical shape that will ensure sunlight reaches every part of the plant. In July, remove any side shoots that are competing with the central leader, and secure the leader to the stake. During the second and third years, again remove any competing side shoots, and if the central leader grew more than 18 inches in the prior season, cut it back by one-forth in late winter or early spring; if not, remove one-third of growth all around the tree. Continue to fasten the tree to the stake as it grows. Thereafter, prune annually, between February and April to remove crowded branches and establish a horizontal growth habit of branches and an overall conical shape. Pruning also encourages the growth of fruiting wood; unpruned trees can become unproductive. Still, be careful not to overdo it. 
Fertilizing: Not required. 
Harvest period: July-November, depending on variety 
Storage: Apples keep best when chilled at 30 to 32 degrees, with a relative humidity of 90 percent (their freezing point doesn't kick in until around 28 degrees). For long-term storage, harvest a week before optimum ripeness is achieved. If you plan on eating within a few days or cooking or baking, allow to ripen fully on the tree. 
Recommended varieties: Gala, Jonamac, Empire, Golden Delicious, Freedom, Priscilla, Sansa, Liberty, Keepsake, GoldRush, Williams Pride 
&nbsp;

ny-home-apples

How to grow apples

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Planting: Plant bare-root trees in fall in a sunny, sheltered location. Plant on the north side of a structure to prolong dormancy and protect from early spring frosts. 
pH range: 6.7-7.5 
Years until fruit bearing: 4; thereafter, expect intermittent off years without fruit. 
Pollination: self-pollinating, but early spring blossoms may require hand pollination. 
Pruning: Annually remove shoots that are too crowded and shorten others to lateral shoots to encourage the production of fruiting spurs. 
Fertilizing: Apply 5-10-5 or 10-10-10 in early spring. 
Harvest period: July-August; ripeness is determined by fruit color. Netting can be used to protect ripening fruit from wildlife. 
Storage: Best to consume within a day or two of harvest if not canning, cooking or freezing. May store for a few day in a single layer in a cool cellar or refrigerator, away from apples and pears. 
Recommended varieties: Alfred, Harcot, Harglow, Hargrand, Harlayne, Harogem, New York 544, Sundrop, Veecot

ny-home-apricots

How to grow apricots

HUNGARY

Planting: Fall or spring, in a spot sheltered from strong wind. Lowbush blueberries, reputably the tastiest, are low-growing spreading plants; highbush blueberries are upright and can be grown as hedges that reach 6 feet tall. Half-high varieties are hybrids that grow 3 to 4 feet. All require full sun and plenty of air circulation, so be careful not to crowd plants. Blueberries require a lot of water. 
pH range: 4.0-5.2 (Plant away from house foundations, walkways and walls, which may leach lime into the soil, raising the pH to unacceptable levels.) 
Years until fruit bearing: 3 to 6 
Pollination: Most are self-pollinating, but planting two or three different varieties will result in bigger berries and a larger crop. 
Pruning: None for the first 5 years. Thereafter, remove old growth and thin as needed in late winter or early spring to allow air to circulate and sunlight to reach the center of the plant. 
Fertilizing: Do not apply nitrogen the first year. Treat each plant with 4 ounces of ammonium sulfate in early spring of the second year. Apply a general fertilizer labeled for acid-loving plants annually, immediately after flowering. 
Harvest period: July-September 
Storage: Blueberries freeze well and remain fresh in the refrigerator for about a week. 
Recommended varieties: Earliblue, Duke, Patriot, Bluecrop, Blueray, Northcountry, Northblue, Bluegold, Darrow, Elliott, Nelson

ny-home-blueberry

How to grow blueberries

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Planting: Early spring, in well-drained, fertile soil. Avoid southern or western exposures, which would promote early blooming and put crops at risk from spring frost damage. 
pH range: 6.2-6.8 
Years until fruit bearing: 7-10 
Pollination: Many are not self-pollinating. For those, plant at least two different sweet cherry varieties for fruit production. 
Pruning: In late spring, after the trees have flowered, when the size of the coming crop and placement of fruit is apparent. Prune employing the method for apple and pear trees but also cut the top off the central leader after the tree has grown 4 or 5 inches in the first year. Thereafter, prune only to remove watersprouts, crowded limbs and those that threaten the vaselike shape of the tree, aiming to keep branches with the widest crotch angles. This may not need to be done for several years. 
Fertilizing: Apply 10-10-10 weekly in early spring until fruit begins to form, and again right after harvest. 
Harvest period: July. Netting may be needed to protect fruit from wildlife. 
Storage: Keep refrigerated for up to a week. 
Recommended varieties: Emperor, Francis, Hartland, Hedelfingen, Royalton, Stella

ny-home-cherries

How to grow sweet cherries

lfDAMIANO

Planting: Mid-April to mid-May, in a spot with very well-drained soil and full sun. Avoid planting in low areas. Space vines 5 to 8 feet apart, and install trellis at planting time. 
pH range: 6.0-6.5 
Years until fruit bearing: 3 
Pollination: Self-pollinating 
Pruning: There are several pruning techniques employed for grapevines, including the four-arm Kniffin system, which requires a trellis consisting of 2 wires, one 30 inches above ground level and a second 24 to 30 inches above the first. These instructions are based on information provided by <a href="/topics/Cornell_University">Cornell University</a> and the Cornell Cooperative Extensions: Prune a dormant vine just after planting, cutting it to 12 inches from the ground, just above a bud. This will grow into the leader, or trunk. In April or May remove the top bud, leave the two buds below it and remove all others. In summer remove all flower clusters and watersprouts. During the first season, two shoots will develop. Allow both to grow, and in early spring of the second year remove the weaker of the two. Prune the stronger shoot to 4-6 buds (2 at bottom wire, 3 at top wire) and tie the cane vertically to the trellis. During the second summer, remove flower clusters and watersprouts as they grow and continue to secure shoots to wires. In early spring of the third season, leave 2 short canes with 3-5 buds each, one along each wire on opposite sides of the trunk; allow one cluster per shoot to bear. Thereafter, prune vines annually in late winter or early spring to support 20-55 buds. 
Fertilizing: Apply one-half to 1 pound of a 5-10-5 product per vine, repeating every second or third year. 
Harvest period: September to October. Color isn't necessarily an indication of ripeness, so taste periodically. Wait until all grapes in a cluster appear ripe, and then cut off the entire cluster, using sharp scissors or pruners. 
Storage: Will keep in the refrigerator for several days if not made into jam, jelly or wine. 
Recommended varieties: Seeded: Alden, Buffalo, Edelweiss, Golden Muscat, Kay Gray, NY Muscat, <a href="/topics/Ontario">Ontario</a>, Price, Seneca, Sheridan, Steuben, Swenson Red, Van Buren, Yates. Seedless grapes: Canadice, Himrod. White wine grapes: Cayuga White, Chardonnay, <a href="/topics/Riesling">Riesling</a>, Chardonnel, Horizon, Seyval, Vidal, Vignoles. Red wine grapes: Baco Noir, Merlot, Concord.

ny-home-grapes

How to grow grapes

lfCOVfruittrees

Love 'em or hate 'em, no one can deny mulberries are delicious. Dissenters complain about the mess the soft, squishy, moist fruits create - littering the lawn, creating a slippage hazard, hitching a ride on shoes and staining carpeting when tracked indoors. But the blackberry-shaped fruits, which can be nearly black, red, purple or white, are extremely sweet.&nbsp;It's best to lay a sheet or tarp under trees in early summer, shake branches and collect fruits after they've fallen. 
Trees, which can grow to 80 feet tall, require full sun, slightly acidic soil (5.5-6.5) and well-drained soil. They're drought-tolerant and easy to grow, with very few pest and disease problems, and there's rarely a need to fertilize them. 
Eat berries out of hand, cook into sauce or bake into pies and tarts.

ny-home-mulberries

How to grow mulberries

These pyramid-shaped trees also are called Hoosier banana, poor man's banana and false banana. They have large drooping dark green leaves that measure up to 12 inches long and 5 inches wide. Interesting but off-smelling, 2-inch-wide maroon flowers grow directly from branches in spring, giving way to heavy 3- to 5-inch elongated, banana-flavored fruits that grow in clusters and become dark and crinkled as they ripen. 
The highly nutritious, creamy fruits are rich in vitamins, minerals and amino acids and can be eaten out of hand or cooked in any recipes calling for bananas. 
A lone tree will not bear fruit; two different cultivars are necessary to ensure the necessary cross-pollination. 
Look for container-grown trees - as opposed to those that have been field grown, dug up and balled and burlapped - because pawpaws have a long taproot that can be damaged when removed from the ground. 
Trees thrive in well-drained, slightly acidic (5.5-7 pH) soil in a sunny to partly sunny area that offers some protection from wind. Provide a 20-20-20 fertilizer monthly in April, May and June. 
Protect young transplants from direct sunlight for the first year or two by setting a light-filtering screen over them until they're established. There are no special care requirements, but you'll have to prune out suckers regularly to retain a tree form and prevent a thicket. &nbsp;

ny-home-pawpaw

How to grow pawpaws

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Planting: At planting time, in early spring, cut the leader back to 8 inches above the first side shoot and shorten the rest of the shoots to just two buds. Remove side shoots growing from the bottom 18 inches, and continue doing this through the first year. 
pH range: 6.5-7.0 
Years until fruit bearing: 4 
Pollination: Self-pollinating, but early spring blossoms may require hand pollination. 
Pruning: Prune hard every year when in flower to ensure vigorous new growth, as peaches produce fruit on year-old wood. This timing will allow you to see how your cuts will affect the current year's crop. In late spring of the second year, cut back the central leader to just above the first wide-angled branch. Select 3-5 scaffold limbs that give the tree a vaselike shape and remove the others. 
Fertilizing: Apply 5-10-5 or 10-10-10 in early spring. 
Harvest period: July-September, when fruits soften at the top. 
Storage: Can be canned or frozen, or kept for several days in a cool cellar or refrigerator. 
Recommended varieties: Surecrop, Raritan Rose, Eden, Harrow Diamond, Brighton, Redhaven, Madison, Canadian Harmony, Cresthaven

ny-home-peaches

How to grow peaches

Planting: In fall or spring, when trees are dormant. Pears are at risk for fire blight, a devastating disease that can prove fatal. Because they are more susceptible under high-nitrogen conditions, it's a good idea to plant trees directly into the lawn, if possible, so that grass will absorb any excess nitrogen in the soil. After planting, remove any shoots growing on the bottom 18 inches, and cut the leader, or main central trunk, down to 26 inches. However, if the tree already has many side branches, cut the leader by only 12 inches from the top. 
pH: 6.5 
Years until fruit bearing: 5 
Pollination: There are three pollination groups of pears. Two or more different varieties from the same pollination group should be planted to ensure a good fruit production, as some varieties will not pollinate other varieties. Check plant tags or consult with nursery personnel for group selections. 
Pruning: As with apples, during the first year, when there is about an inch of new growth, choose a strong bud, usually the one just below the leader cut made at planting time, and remove the two or three buds below it, along with any flowers that on the tree. Afterward, when new growth reaches 2 to 4 inches, select 4 or 5 side shoots that are growing from the leader at wide angles, but not directly across from one another, and remove the others. Prune upper branches shorter than lower ones to retain a conical shape that will ensure sunlight reaches every part of the plant. In July remove any side shoots that are competing with the central leader and secure the leader to the stake. During the second and third years again remove any competing side shoots, and if the central leader grew more than 18 inches in the prior season, cut it back by one-fourth in late winter or early spring; if not, remove one-third of growth all around the tree. Continue to fasten the tree to the stake as it grows. Thereafter, prune annually between February and April to remove crowded branches and establish a horizontal growth habit with an overall conical shape. 
Fertilizing: Annually in spring, after new growth starts, but do not fertilize trees that have a history of fire blight. 
Harvest period: August through October. To prevent a gritty texture, do not allow pears to mature completely on the tree. Pick when fruit is still firm but color has lightened. Ripen indoors at 60 to 70 degrees for about a week. 
Storage: Store only unmarred fruit. Pears will keep for a month or more if refrigerated. 
Recommended varieties: Bartlett, Gorham, Bosc

ny-home-pears

How to grow pears

Planting: Plant bare-root trees when dormant, ideally in October. Container-grown or balled and burlapped trees can be planted in fall or early spring. Stake newly planted trees and secure with stretchable fastener. 
pH: 6.5 
Years until fruit bearing: 5 
Pollination: Some are self-pollinating; others are not. Consult the plant tag for details and ask nursery personnel for companion suggestions. 
Pruning: Prune plum trees in late spring, after the trees have flowered, when the size of the crop and placement of fruit is apparent. Prune employing the method for apple and pear trees, but also cut the top off the central leader after the tree has grown 4 or 5 inches in the first year. Thereafter, prune only to remove watersprouts, crowded limbs and those that threaten the vaselike shape of the tree. This may not need to be done for several years. 
Fertilizing: Apply a 10-10-10 product after flowering in spring. 
Harvest period: July through September, depending on variety, when fruit begins to soften. Remove plums with stems intact to prevent damage. Storage: Will keep in the refrigerator for two to four weeks. 
Recommended varieties: European: Richards Early Italian, Green Gage, French Damson, Stanley; Asian: Shiro, Seneca, Early Golden.

ny-home-plums

How to grow plums

Guide to growing fruit at home

Newsday

Growing fruit at home

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