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AN AUTHENTIC SURPRISE
God works in mysterious ways.
I was hungry, heading south on Route 110 in Huntington Station earlier this week, silently bemoaning the lack of lunch options. Well, I consoled myself, there's always Chipotle. I hung a right onto Old Walt Whitman Road and saw rising (albeit squatly) before me, Los Compadres, a little Mexican spot I had plum forgotten about. Little Miss Authentic Cuisine here could hardly pass up this modest taqueria for the corporate behemoth that is Chipotle.
The place was clean as a whistle, the man behind the counter as jolly as Santa. I was thinking about how I had skipped breakfast that morning. Then my tacos arrived and, lo and behold, the chorizo taco was filled not only with spicy sausage but scrambled eggs, too. A little hot sauce made this a winner. My tongue taco was good, too, if needing a little more juice.
When I noticed that my bottle of Jarritos mineral water wasn't a twist-off, I looked around and, sure enough, affixed to the wall next to the ordering counter was a bottle opener that pried off the cap and provided a receptacle for its disposal. This simple maneuver gave me inordinate pleasure.
Los Compadres is at 243 Old Walt Whitman Rd., Huntington Station, 631-351-8384. - ERICA MARCUS
MEDITERRANEAN NEWCOMER
Cafe Taka, a Mediterranean (mostly Turkish) restaurant, has moved into the small storefront next door to Winnie's Coffee Shop in Bay Shore. Before, the site was home to both Savor Cafe and Mediterranean Grill, neither of which lasted very long.
Signs are good, though, for this newcomer. For one thing, the place has been spruced up and now has comfortable seating and table service. I stopped by for takeout, sampling the rousing rosy-hued lentil soup as well as two very good meze (appetizers) - hummus and babaganoush.
No surprise, then, to learn that the place is owned by a pro - restaurateur Mike Sarac, who also was behind the former Istanbul Kebab House in Lynbrook, Mediterranean Kitchen in Bellmore and Black Sea in Oceanside.
The menu lists such dishes as Adana kebab ($11.95), whole Mediterranean branzino ($19) and chargrilled octopus salad ($12).
Cafe Taka is at 164 Main St., Bay Shore, 631-647-4809 - JOAN REMINICK
THE ORIENT GETS A FACE-LIFT
If you've been meaning to get over to The Orient in Bethpage for some authentic Chinese cooking, you'll have to wait. The restaurant is closing for two months for a much-needed renovation.
True, you won't be able to get a dim sum fix during March or April. But come May 1, says owner Tommy Tan, the place should reopen. And its menu will be the same as before. Which means you'll be able to get the restaurant's amazing garlic fried chicken and whole fish steamed with ginger and scallions once again.
The Orient is at 623 Hicksville Rd., Bethpage, 516-822-1010. - JOAN REMINICK
