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SUREFIRE TACOS

I'm impressionable when hungry. Last week, I overheard the word "taco" and immediately started thinking about where I could stop for one on my way home. Central Nassau is a little light in the taco department, but it does boast one surefire taco hit, Little Mexico in Westbury.

My pal and I both got exactly the same three tacos, lengua (tongue), al pastor (pork shepherd's style) and chorizo sausage; everything was terrific, though pastor always makes me wistful for vacations in Mexico, where al pastor signifies pork that has been grilled on a rotating vertical column in front of a heat source. This is something I've never found on Long Island.

Little Mexico is at 280 Post Ave., Westbury, 516-333-2038. -- ERICA MARCUS

AMICALE CLOSES

Amicale, which overhauled the former Panama Hatties in Huntington Station a year ago and earned a three-star rating in Newsday, has closed. A court notice citing back rent was posted on the front door of the eatery.

Amicale had been praised for its updated continental fare, handsome setting and service. But the number of Long Island restaurants specializing in continental cuisine, which for decades defined fine dining here, has been declining for years. -- PETER M. GIANOTTI

VENEZUELAN CHICKEN

Chicken's Road is the playful name of a new Bellmore eatery that puts a Venezuelan spin on chicken. It opened in the former digs of Gonzo's Mexican Grill.

Venezuela-born owner Wang Wong said her father is a native of Hong Kong, her mother, of Venezuela. "Both had strong beliefs in cooking with flavor," Wong said.

I stopped into the friendly counter-service spot and tried a dark meat quarter chicken ($8.95). It had great flavor but had probably spent too much time on the rotisserie, since it was a trifle dry. Accompanying arepitas -- mini arepas, or corn cakes -- were fluffy and savory; fried yellow plantains appealingly sweet. The hot sauce on the side was a real eye-opener. While I'm usually not a fan of grilled boneless breast, the "chicken Latin flavor" sandwich ($9.25) was a juicy, spicy hit made with lettuce, tomato, onion, spicy cheese and avocado.

Wong said a specialty of the house is gallo rice, a stir-fry of rice, chicken and pork ($9.75).

Chicken's Road is at 2975 Merrick Rd., Bellmore, 516-221-5222. -- JOAN REMINICK

FIRE CLOSES CARACALLA

Caracalla, the Italian restaurant at 102 Jericho Tpke. in Syosset, has closed after a fire. No one was injured. There's no word yet on whether the restaurant will reopen.