4 spots for authentic Italian dining on Long Island

There can never be too many Italian restaurants in Nassau and Suffolk. Tony Colombos Italian Bistro in Rockville Centre is just one of the four recommended. Credit: Bruce Gilbert
There can never be too many Italian restaurants in Nassau and Suffolk. Here are four more that are very comfortable and very good.
645 Middle Country Rd., St. James, 631-265-9228
Full-flavored food is the draw at Spezia, one of last year's Top 10 restaurants. Recommendations include the meat-filled lasagna, rice balls, grilled polenta with sauteed mushrooms, shrimp and tomatoes, stuffed double-cut pork chop, eggplant rollatine, lobster fra diavolo. $$-$$$
51 Cedar Swamp Rd., Glen Cove, 516-801-6700
Claudio's took over the former La Pace site and both overhauled and brightened it. Notable dishes now include tender grilled octopus, house-cured salmon carpaccio, pasta e fagioli, burrata cheese with tomatoes, whole orata, grilled pork chop, mascarpone cheesecake, chocolate mousse cake. $$-$$$
82 Glen Cove Rd., Greenvale, 516-484-3123
Adjoining the popular pizzeria is this dependable, welcoming spot. Winners include the house's flatbreads, rigatoni Bolognese, linguine with white clam sauce, eggplant rollatine, shrimp in spicy red sauce, chicken Milanese and, yes, tuna au poivre. $$
208 Sunrise Hwy, Rockville Centre, 516-678-1996
Tony Colombos in Rockville Centre is the joint effort of chef Tony Colombo, formerly of Cirella’s in Melville, and Art Gustafson, chef-owner of Chadwicks American Chophouse & Bar near the Rockville Centre railroad station. Satisfying choices are the spaghetti and meatballs, rice balls, Beef braciola, pappardelle alla Bolognese, lasagna. $$-$$$
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