Review: Four in Oyster Bay
Langoustine with hazelnut and champagne veloute at Four in Oyster Bay. Credit: Evan Sung
Claudia Taglich and Jesse Schenker’s growing Oyster Bay restaurant empire includes a dining experience unlike anything else on Long Island: a $275 12- to 15-course chef's tasting menu that's delivered on Thursday through Saturday nights only to 10 diners seated at a counter overlooking the kitchen.
Four
Range of entrees: $275 ($110 Wednesday series)
Handicapped accessible: No steps; high seating around the chef's counter
Attributes: Date night
Reservations: Necessary
4 Spring St. Oyster Bay
Four was the second restaurant Schenker opened in town, adjacent to the chic 2 Spring, where the menu changes seasonally.
Four is a fine-dining affair where watching the prep for the next course is the entertainment. In the open kitchen, cooks simmer sauces, sear meats, poach fish and plate dishes throughout the ever-changing menu. A meticulous serving staff pairs wine and clears plates like magicians, elaborating on the bounty of treats that arrive for your palate’s consideration. Bite-sized tartlets, inspired pastas, perfectly cooked Wagyu beef, fish from all regions of the world are creatively prepared.
Diners at Four in Oyster Bay are served a chef's tasting dinner at a 10-seat counter. Dishes might include add-ons such as Kaluga caviar. Credit: Evan Sung and Benny Migs
Last fall’s bite-sized tomato tartlet with triple-cream La Tur and togarashi spices has morphed into a housemate tostada, with braised and grilled octopus topped with white bean purée, salsa verde and cilantro. Wagyu, once served with wasabi, onion and seaweed is now served with black cherry and pepper.
Credit: Evan Sung
Notable dishes
Seasonal tasting menu changes frequently.
Tip:
Four has a pared-down multicourse dining series on Wednesdays that is easier on the wallet ($110) and a bit more whimsical. Themes have included a New York City Chef dinner with classics like Thomas Keller's caviar and pearls from Per Se, a British Pub menu that featured Welsh rarebit, a Scotch egg, and fish and chips, here with halibut, thrice-cooked chips and mushy peas.
Schenker is adept at stuffed pastas, such as a soulful fall riff on ravioli with squash, brown butter, and French comté. Orrechiete with garlic scapes and ‘nduja is a Schenker-esque take on Italian broccoli rabe and sausage. Three dishes are signatures: a decadent, foie gras duck fat croissant; a puffed beef tendon with cured egg and togarashi and kaluga caviar; and dry-aged beef with maitake, or hen of the woods, mushroom and barley. Dinners conclude with petit fours, made daily and sold (along with all the bread service) at Schenker's nearby bakery, Provisions Bread & Cheese.
Indeed this is an affair that involves a splurge on many levels — beyond the base price, diners reserve (and pay for) their seats well in advance. Indulgent flourishes — caviar, foie gras, truffles, uni and Champagne — abound and come at additional costs. Customized wine pairings are offered and encouraged.
Schenker, always a floor presence at his restaurants, is most accessible here, where he shares rousing tales from the trenches. This is what fine dining on Long Island looks like right now and it’s glorious.
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A global freelancer who has checked her suitcase to raise her young daughter on her native Long Island, Marie Elena will always make time for good mezcal, even better tacos and killer conversation. Preferably, in a corner bar seat. She can be found on Instagram at @mariesworldeats.
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