Angie's replaces Publicans in Manhasset

The storied Manhasset pub Publicans has transformed into Angie’s, a contemporary American bistro. Long Islanders may remember the long-running Publicans closed last year after being immortalized in J.R. Moehringer’s bestselling 2005 memoir, "The Tender Bar," and George Clooney's 2021 film adaptation. The new owners said they jumped at the chance not only to continue its history, but also because it’s the rare Manhasset eatery with parking. They also felt an obligation to update the venue for the next 50 years.

"We didn’t just want to give it a face-lift," said partner Joe Ragonese, the former director of operations for the Kyma Restaurants who's teamed with Tom Tsiplakos and Stefanos Vouvoudakis of For Five Coffee, the Queens-based roaster-retailer-cafe. "We wanted to give it the renovation it deserved."

That meant brightening and polishing the space, deploying reclaimed brick, nautical blue upholstery and brass accents to create a contemporary Ralph Lauren vibe. The 20-seat bar still dominates the front room, which also accommodates 40 guests at high tops for dining or drinking. The main dining room seats 50 and there’s a second, smaller room for overflow or parties.

Alex Ordei, the group’s culinary director, reinvents few wheels, but checks most boxes. There’s something for everyone here with starters (most $15 to $25) ranging from spinach-artichoke dip and chicken tenders to swordfish kebabs and "escargot" lobster knuckles wrapped in puff pastry and treated like snails. There’s a Chinese chicken salad ($21) and a Beverly salad (Cobb and Cheddar, $22) and sandwiches ($19 to $30) including a triple smashburger, a Wagyu French dip and the Rachel (Reuben, romaine, cabbage and aioli). Flatbreads ($21 to $24), tacos and quesadillas ($18 to $19) come in many varieties.

Most larger mains such as swordfish Milanese, chicken paillard, vegetarian chicken Parm, spicy rigatoni and, in a nod to the owners’ Greek heritage, seafood youvetsi (baked with orzo) are less than $30 because, Ragonese said, "we want this to be that neighborhood place where you can go a few times a week." Steaks and chops rise in the $40s as does another playful take on lobster, the "lobster frites" ($64), a 2-pound specimen that’s been taken out of the shell, grilled, put back in the shell and served with fries and clarified butter. At lunch there’s a two-course, $19.99 special and a weekend brunch features more breakfast-appropriate fare.

Angie’s, 550 Plandome Rd., Manhasset, 516-627-7722, angieslongisland.com. Open daily from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., Sunday to Wednesday 4 p.m. to 11 p.m., Thursday to Saturday 4 p.m. to midnight.