Apple strudel (and strudel-making classes) return to Baldwin

Apple strudel is famously difficult to make, but Heidi Riegler makes it look easy. The proprietor of Vienna Cookie Company in Baldwin handles the dough as easily as if it were laundry. And she not only makes strudel, she can teach you how to make it too: Her strudel-making classes have resumed for the first time since the pandemic.

Riegler has been strudeling for most of her life but in 2017, a year after she launched her baking business, she added it to the lineup of Linzer cookies, Sandbusserln (“sandy kisses"), Sacher tortes and more. But strudel is only available in the fall.

“I use local apples or at least New York State apples,” she said, so I only make strudel when they are in season.”

Granny Smiths are her top choice because they are tart, crisp and keep their structure. Riegler tosses them with sugar and cinnamon before turning her attention to the dough.

First, she uses a big pin to roll it out into a laptop-sized rectangle. Then commences the stretching. Using her full extended hands — never the fingertips, which could tear the dough — she teases the dough ever thinner until it almost covers the floured tablecloth on which it rests. “Strudel dough has to be hand-stretched,” she noted. “If you use phyllo, you’re cheating.”

The whole sheet of dough is lightly brushed with butter. A few inches away from one long edge, she sprinkles a thin layer of breadcrumbs and then arranges the apples directly on top; the breadcrumbs act as a barrier between apples and dough. Next, she folds the dough over the apples and uses the tablecloth to tighten the package (think making a sushi roll). She butters the top of the emerging roll, then folds it over again, tightens again and so on, until the strudel is complete. “Strudel,” by the way, means “whirlpool” in German.

Riegler also makes three savory strudels (bratwurst-potato, mushroom-feta-rice, potato-leek) and two other strudels (cheese-berry and walnut) whose whirlpools are formed by a thicker dough closer to cookies. All of them are $20 for an 8-inch loaf or you can purchase a 3-slice sampler (sweet or savory) for $25. Vienna Cookie Company ships frozen but you can pick up fresh items in Baldwin on Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Riegler and strudels will also be at the Islip Apple Fest on Oct. 21.

Strudel classes will be offered on Oct. 20 at 6 p.m., Oct. 27 at 11 a.m. and Oct. 28 at 2 p.m. Classes are 90 minutes long and cost $55. Bring an apron and a pizza box and you’ll go home with what Riegler promises will be a great strudel.

782 Merrick Rd., Baldwin; 347-440-9273, viennacookiecompany.com