Cobb salad at Avianna's Carriage House in Melville.

Cobb salad at Avianna's Carriage House in Melville. Credit: Newsday/Marie Elena Martinez

At long last, the former Frederick’s in Melville, which closed in 2015, has been reborn as Avianna's Carriage House. Its name is a wink to the location's history as a trolley stop on the route that ran along Walt Whitman Road from Huntington to Amityville.

Avianna's Carriage House in Melville is along a historic trolley...

Avianna's Carriage House in Melville is along a historic trolley route from Huntington to Melville. Credit: Newsday/Marie Elena Martinez

The once-formal Frederick's is now a cozy comfort food spot with ski chalet vibes (think warm, woody accents with Prohibition details). Owner Leonard Oliva has been working on this project for nearly 10 years, facing a host of setbacks ranging from permitting at the start to a pause during the pandemic and the recent departure of opening chef Thomas Fazio. Oliva also owns Prato 850 in Commack and Bar Grazie in Massapequa Park

Avianna's Carriage House in Melville.

Avianna's Carriage House in Melville. Credit: Newsday/Marie Elena Martinez

Avianna's menu is filled with new spins on comfort classics. The hybrid charcuterie board is served in a giant soft pretzel ($33), melding two popular starters into one dish. Ribeye ($24) and pepperoni ($19) flatbreads, and lobster deviled eggs ($26) with bacon jam are among the other starters. Oversize salads are topped with large portions of chosen proteins (the chopped lettuce underneath — a nice surprise — is grown hydroponically on Long Island). A caviar menu includes bumps ($27) through grand service ($265), should the mood to be fancy strike.

The pretzel charcuterie board at Avianna's Carriage House in Melville.

The pretzel charcuterie board at Avianna's Carriage House in Melville. Credit: Newsday/Marie Elena Martinez

Sandwiches run from smashburgers ($26) to Carnegie Deli pastrami ($28) and are accompanied by fat, delicious, dip-friendly potato wedges that should accompany every plate. There’s a lobster roll ($47), a BLT ($29) and a prime rib dip ($28). Entrees include a Montauk swordfish Milanese ($39), short rib cacio e pepe gnocchi playfully dubbed "a really tasty pasta" ($38) and a bone-in veal chop ($59).

The history of the building is celebrated along the main dining room’s walls. Vaulted ceilings above the long bar, adjacent to the dining room, make it feel airy and bright. An intimate second level seats 25 to 30 guests. Full brunch service begins Saturday with plans to expand to weekdays soon.

Avianna’s Carriage House, 1117 Walt Whitman Rd., Melville; 516-927-7175, aviannascarriagehouse.com; Open daily 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

 
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