B. Smith's

 Barbara Smith has a summery home in Sag Harbor. Her restaurant does, too.

Smith, the TV personality, doyenne d'entertaining, and model restaurateur has built a stylish reputation. This confection breezed into Sag Harbor in 1998. And it's a bright embodiment of the Hamptons summer, prettily perched at Malloy's Marina at the very end of Main Street.

You'll have a lovely view of twilight on the water from this long dining room. Or enjoy the sunset alfresco, from a table on the deck.

The mood, naturally, is very upbeat. The kitchen often is very good, too.

Dishes change frequently in this part of the world. But some of the winners at B. Smith's include roast tomato gazpacho; the zesty salads; roasted and grilled vegetables; spicy mako; hickory-smoked ribs; and pork chops with fried plantains.

The sweets are good. But B. Smith's calls for no more than a scoop of ice cream. Maybe two.