Barto opens in Roslyn

It was nearly 10 years ago that the Ground Round closed on Northern Boulevard in Roslyn and, shortly thereafter, a striking wooden structure — flat topped and surrounded by a graceful colonnade — rose up in its place. Then work stopped, the wood began to weather and fade.

Late last year a sign appeared on the frieze: Barto.

On June 15, Barto opened at last. The restaurant is owned by Donald and Anne Finley. (Donald Finley’s other ventures include Shipwreck Tavern and the neighboring Adventure Park in Bayville as well as Jekyll & Hyde in Manhattan.) The Finleys restored the building’s exterior, made with wood reclaimed from the Coney Island boardwalk, to its former glory. The interior is no slouch either. In the dining room, a wall of living plants and a tremendous red Venetian glass chandelier compete for dominance. Chairs and curved banquettes are upholstered in shades of tomato and eggplant.

Barto’s kitchen is led by Hatim Abid, who previously cooked at Andaz 5th Avenue in Manhattan and Toku Modern Asian in Manhasset. The chef’s Moroccan heritage can be seen in his braised chicken with preserved lemons and saffron couscous ($26) and charmoula-sauced branzino ($33), but the menu draws equally from Italy, Mexico, Asia and America.

Other mains include filet mignon stir fry with snow peas and ginger rice ($35) and chili-poached red snapper with radish salad and blistered shishito peppers ($29). Starters include grilled shrimp tacos with pineapple pico de gallo ($15), kale Caesar with green-apple croutons and Grana Padano ($14) and house-made ricotta with baby tomatoes and grilled bread ($13). There are three pastas (tagliatelle with beef ragu, torn burrata and chili flakes is $23), five pizzas (the Calabrese, with salami, sopressata, chorizo, arugula and Parmesan is $17) and a Cheddar cheeseburger with chipotle, bacon-onion jam, sun-dried tomatoes and triple-cooked fries ($19).

Barto is at 1024 Northern Blvd., Roslyn; 516-277-2828, ilovebarto.com