Bobby Flay's Burger Place, in the Smith Haven Mall in...

Bobby Flay's Burger Place, in the Smith Haven Mall in Lake Grove, is known for its tasty French fries and famous BBP Fry Sauce. (March 19, 2010) Credit: Photo by Bruce Gilbert

What better way to celebrate Bastille Day than with a grand plat of hot, salty frites.

Traditionally, Long Island has welcomed French restaurants the way the Russian winter embraced Napoleon. But the burst of bistromania and brasserieitis has changed that. Here are three places to wave the tricolor.

The newest addition is the colorful Bar Frites, which is making noise at the east end of the Wheatley Plaza shopping center in Greenvale. It's a buoyant, flavorful spot, especially good for carnivores intent on steak frites, steak au poivre, steak tartare. Tasty croque monsieur, too. Wheatley Plaza is at the intersection of Northern Boulevard and Glen Cove Road. 516-484-7500.

In downtown Huntington, cozy Bistro Cassis is the French connection. It's a warm eatery, with a serene style and professional service. The Wednesday special is cassoulet, the white-bean stew, here with pork and duck. You'll also like the roasted chicken for two, frisee aux lardons, grilled hanger steak and salade Nicoise. 55B Wall St.; 631-421-4122.

Brasserie Cassis in Plainview is the lively offspring of Bistro Cassis. Both are part of the Restar restaurant group. Brasserie Cassis looks terrific, loaded with antiques and the flavor of the real thing. The Wednesday special is duck a l'orange. Also, try mussels mariniere, braised monkfish, braised lamb shank, salade Nicoise. 387 S. Oyster Bay Rd.; 516-653-0090.

Of course, French restaurants don't have a monopoly on great fries. Check out our picks for Long Island's best French fries.

French fries at Bobby's Burger Palace in Lake Grove

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