Crab cakes at Beaumarchais restaurant in East Hampton. (July 2012)

Crab cakes at Beaumarchais restaurant in East Hampton. (July 2012) Credit: Newsday/Peter M. Gianotti

More L.A. than Saint-Tropez, Beaumarchais in East Hampton plays its part very well.

In full, this is Beaumarchais a la plage. The summery,  “at the beach” offspring of Beaumarchais in Manhattan's meatpacking district took over the site vacated by Philippe.

Your waiter, formal in narrow black tie and casual with slit-knee jeans, has a central-casting look. So does the restaurant itself, from the notice-me artwork to the bargain-free wine list.

And Beaumarchais is attached to the SL East nightspot, complete with velvet rope.

Consider all this part of the entertainment. The food goes from so-so to very good. Pick carefully and enjoy the sideshows.

Recommended: loosely bound crabcakes with house-made rouille, pan-seared  striped bass with quinoa salad, roasted chicken, tomato-fueled gazpacho.

The “mega sundae,” which amounts to dessert for four, comes in at $40. But it is capped with a sparkler.

Beaumarchais a la plage, 44 Three Mile Harbor Rd., East Hampton;  631-604-6060.

Crabcakes at Beaumarchais a la plage.