Best eats at LI's mall food courts

Fall time is mall time, high season for back-to-school and back-to-cool weather shopping. It can be madness.

So when time-strapped shoppers are suddenly beset by hunger pangs, more often than not, they end up at the fueling stations of last resort: the food courts. While few sane shoppers would ordinarily seek out these fast-food stands, they do have their advantages: speed, convenience and price.

But what about quality? Nutrition? Believe it or not, in the midst of all the steam-table glop and deep-fried meats, a few places actually serve up fare that's fresh, flavorful, even healthy. You just have to forage a bit and custom-order when you can. But even if you opt for empty calories, you'll at least want to get some enjoyment out of them.

Here, then, is the best of what we found while scouting out flavor in the food courts.

NASSAU COUNTY

Broadway Mall, 358 B. Broadway Mall, Hicksville, 516-939-0679, broadwaymall.com

Wear ear plugs to this cacophonous arcade, an escalator ride up to a space that also houses coin-operated kiddie rides and a multiplex theater.

THE BEST

Sushi.com $

Better than you'd expect at a mall, this counter-service spot will fashion maki rolls to order. The fish is fresh, the rice at proper room temperature. You can also get a bowl of udon soup with shrimp tempura or even the Korean dish, bulgoki (marinated barbecued beef).

Sbarro $

A classic Neapolitan slice - crisp crust, bright sauce, oozy mozzarella - trumps virtually all else at this Long Island- based chain that also serves up decent meatballs and tender chicken Francese. Avoid the steam-table pasta and perfunctory salads.

THE REST

Arby's $

Bourbon Street Café $

Chinese Gourmet Express $

McDonald's Express $

Subway $

Green Acres Mall, 2034 Green Acres Mall, Valley Stream, 516-561-7360, greenacresmallonline.com

Some days, its seems as though everybody shopping at the mall is also eating at this well-patronized food court, situated a few steps away from Sears on the second floor.

THE BEST

My Kitchen $

The idea behind this stand is a smart one. Fill your own compartmentalized Styrofoam container and pay by weight. Top choices include toothsome turkey (dark meat, too) with vegetables, home-style baked chicken, bright salads and cool, crisp green beans. The fruit here - pineapple, mangoes, strawberries - is just gorgeous.

Master Wok $

Pan-fried fish at 70 calories a filet isn't a bad choice at this Asian spot, where you can also get chicken with broccoli steamed to order.

Sarku Japan $

Chicken teriyaki is a big seller at this stand, where the lines are long and the griddle busy.

Sbarro $

See Broadway Mall, Hicksville

THE REST

A&D Buffalo Wings $

Arthur Treacher's Fish & Chips Big Easy Cajun $

Charley's Steakery $

Subway $

Wendy's $

Simon Roosevelt Field Mall, 630 Old Country Rd., East Garden City, 516-742-8001, simon.com

This behemoth food court is arranged like a giant wheel, the stands comprising the hub, the tables placed like spokes. You'll probably be plied with samples of Bourbon chicken (candy-sweet poultry on a toothpick), teriyaki chicken and chicken quesadillas. Be picky about what you peck at.

THE BEST

Café Spice $

This Indian-inspired stand serves up such well-spiced choices as chicken korma and chicken vindaloo (just a little fiery). Best are vegetarian choices, such as saag paneer (spinach and cheese) and bangain bharta (eggplant). Tandoor-baked breads pair very nicely. In addition, the stand makes some of the best smoothies going. Get a free sample of the strawberry-banana and you'll be back for more.

Johnny Rockets $

Burgers are good and juicy, thick shakes worthy indulgences at this nationwide chain where a nostalgia vibe prevails. Sit on a counter stool and watch the action behind the griddle.

Sushi Fuji $

While chicken teriyaki is the most popular choice at this Japanese stand, the sushi chef will make to order any roll you want. The salmon roll is a winner. Slightly warm rice is a nice touch.

Taco Bell $

Forget preconceptions and try the cantina-style soft corn carnitas tacos. You'll get two warm tortillas rolled round a stew-y filling of slow-roasted shredded pork showered with fresh cilantro and chopped onion, a lime wedge accompanying. Good, too, if not on the same level, are the chicken and marinated steak tacos, both topped with the same perky mix of chopped onion and cilantro.

THE REST

Big Easy Cajun $

Everything Yogurt Cafe $

Great Steak & Potato Company $

Mrs. Fields Cookies $

Ranch 1 $

Sakkio Japan $

Sbarro $

Sole' Mex $

The Original Soup Man $

Subway $

Wendy's $

Westfield Sunrise Shopping Center, 1 Sunrise Mall, Massapequa, 516-795-3550, westfield.com/sunrise

The second floor food court gets lots of light, thanks to a steel and glass ceiling, which does little to diminish the noise level.

THE BEST

Yuzu Sushi $

Could this really be mall sushi? It's much better than that, especially when cheerfully made to order. The salmon avocado roll is a particular favorite.

Nathan's / Arthur Treacher's $

Bursting with garlicky juices, a Nathan's frank is always a treat. Pair it with the chain's signature fries, crisp and nutty in flavor, and you've got the definition of guilty pleasure.

Taco Bell $

See Simon Roosevelt Field Mall, East Garden City

THE REST

Arby's $

Bourbon Street Cafe $

Master Wok $

Mrs. Fields/Pretzel Time/TCBY $

Sbarro Express $

Subway $

Wendy's $

SUFFOLK

Smith Haven Mall, 313 Smith Haven Mall, Lake Grove, 631-724-8066, simon.com

With its soaring steel-and-glass ceiling, this spacious food court is bathed in light. On a busy day, though, you can nonetheless feel swallowed up in the crowded din.

THE BEST

Mosaic Turkish Grill $

Hard to believe, but in the midst of all these corporate-owned stands is this family-owned Turkish eatery turning out restaurant-quality food. Songul Abay owns the place; her husband, Murat Koroglu, is the chef. Instead of processed gyro, try the Turkish donor kebabs, marinated slices of lamb and steak stacked on a vertical spit before being roasted and sliced to order. The chicken Adana kebab (minced spiced poultry shaped, skewered and grilled) bursts with piquant juices. Have it as a sandwich on pita slathered with hummus, heaped with lettuce, tomatoes and onions. You'll want to return to the food court even when you're not shopping.

Nathan's $

See Westfield Sunrise Mall, Massapequa

Sbarro $

See Broadway Mall, Hicksville

THE REST

Bourbon Street Cafe $

China Max - Chicken Now $

Great Steak & Potato Company $

Little Tokyo $

Wendy's $

Westfield South Shore Shopping Center, 1701 Sunrise Hwy., Bay Shore, 631-665-8600, westfield.com /southshore

Situated right outside of Lord & Taylor, this food court is small but serviceable.

THE BEST

Yogo Monster $

How novel - food-court fare that's both good and good for you. The "plain tart" flavor of the featured frozen yogurt has only 20 calories an ounce, but it's positively addictive. Top it with fresh fruit, such as mango or kiwi, or go wild with chocolate chips, almonds, even gummy bears.

My Kitchen $

Load up your plate and pay by weight at this chain whose steam-table selections (which are not quite on the level of those at Green Acres in Valley Stream) are eclipsed by its colorful fresh salads and tropical fruits.

Taco Bell $

See Simon Roosevelt Field Mall, East Garden City

Sarku Japan $

See Green Acres Mall, Valley Stream

THE REST

Carlo's NY Pizza $

KFC Express $

McDonald's $

Subway $

Tanger Outlet Center, 1770 W. Main St., Riverhead, 631-369-2732, tangeroutlet.com/riverhead

Right now, only one relatively small food court in Tanger II services the entire complex of outlets. On busy weekends, expect long lines and table-sharing with strangers.

THE BEST

Wok & Roll $

Sure, this stand serves up the usual over-sauced steam-table fare, but you can do much better by requesting steamed chicken and vegetables with "brown" sauce on the side. The chicken is remarkably tender, the vegetables retain a hint of crispness.

Villa Pizza $

You can put together a pretty decent meal (pasta, entree, vegetable) at this competent pizza-pasta spot. Try the savory meatballs (a trifle bready but very good) with baked ziti and surprisingly bright vegetables.

Taco Bell $

See Simon Roosevelt Field Mall, East Garden City

THE REST

Auntie Anne's $

CinnaMonster $

KFC Express $

McDonald's $

Ragin' Cajun $