Wood-grilled ahi tuna steak with lemon butter sauce is subtly...

Wood-grilled ahi tuna steak with lemon butter sauce is subtly smoky, served with grilled asparagus and spaghetti squash at Bonefish Grill in Lake Grove. Credit: Daniel Brennan

Long Island's two new Bonefish Grill restaurants may win you over with their tasteful good looks -- neutral colors and sleek surfaces punctuated by glittery fishlike metal wall sculptures. In Rockville Centre, a valet will park your car. Service there, as well as at the restaurant at Smith Haven Mall in Lake Grove, is highly professional, with servers attired in crisp white chefs' jackets. Prices are reasonable, food better than you'd expect from the same corporate ownership as Outback Steakhouse.

A Rockville Centre dinner kicks off with a vibrant ceviche of shrimp, scallop, squid, cilantro and vegetables. The restaurant's signature bang bang shrimp features batter-fried shellfish coated with a creamy-spicy sauce. They have a strangely addictive quality. Crab-intense crabcakes are loose-textured, not the least bready.

The wood grill produces ahi tuna that's subtly smoky. It surely doesn't need its "pan- Asian" sauce, one of several choices. Also off the grill come sea scallops and shrimp, succulent and herbal. Served on the side is an overly sweet mango salsa. Best bet: naked fish.

A single lobster tail makes for a well-priced, if skimpy, entree special on a Tuesday night. The meat tastes fresh and sweet, plated with green beans and served with a Caesar salad that is way too cold. A bowl of shrimp pad Thai, however, turns out to be a full-flavored success.

Rockville Centre doesn't currently offer lunch on weekdays (which may change if local rulings favor the restaurant), but Lake Grove does. There, corn chowder with lump crab is ultra rich, shot with bacon undertones. A well-priced combo features a bright roasted tomato and red pepper soup plus two soft flour tacos, one with chicken, the other with filet mignon. The meat is tender and well seasoned and it doesn't deserve to be topped with a gloppy-sweet mix of mango salsa and sour cream. While an entree-size cilantro lime salad comes off as fairly dull, a lunch special of grilled swordfish is a simple, moist and herbal hit. Accompanying fries are the previously frozen kind.

For dessert, fairly ordinary coconut custard pie is dolloped with commercially made whipped cream. Opt for the flourless macadamia nut brownie with vanilla ice cream, both with the purity of flavor you'd want from every dish in this pretty, polished setting.

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