Review: Bryant & Cooper in Roslyn

The Colorado rib steak at Bryant & Cooper in Roslyn is one of the restaurant's most popular dishes. Credit: Newsday/Alejandra Villa Loarca
Long-running Gold Coast steakhouses aren't hard to find in this part of the North Shore. In fact, there's little on the menu at Bryant & Cooper that wasn’t served in 1986, when George and Gillis Poll opened the first of what became seven luxe restaurants including nearby Hendrick's Tavern, Cipollini, Toku, and Bar Frites.

Bryant & Cooper
Range of entrees: $32 to $96
Accessibility: No steps
Attributes: Celebrations, date night, legacy, open for lunch
Reservations: Necessary on weekends
2 Middle Neck Rd., Roslyn
And it continues to speak to high rollers with big, carnivorous appetites. A renovation in 2019 brightened up the dining room, which retains its clubby feel with brown leather banquettes and thick white tablecloths. Equally important is the service, which is meticulous here, focused on pleasing first-time diners and regulars alike.
Dry-aged prime steaks are the focus — porterhouses that feed between two and four people are the restaurant's most popular dish, co-owner Gillis Poll said, followed by the cajun Colorado rib steak. Sirloin, filet mignon, rib eyes, lamb and veal chops are fired just so, too.

Shrimp cocktail and linguini with clam sauce is served at Bryant & Cooper in Roslyn.
The kitchen is equally adroit with seafood, from shellfish towers, lemon sole and swordfish to jumbo lobsters and, in season, Nantucket Bay scallops and stone crab claws. Though you're probably not here for the Italian entrees, they're oversize and available, with crowd-pleasing selections including linguine in white clam sauce, chicken Parmigiana and veal Francese, Piccata, and Marsala. The lemon pepper chicken is a popular option for those preferring poultry.

Credit: Newsday/Alejandra Villa Loarca
Notable dishes
Porterhouse, cajun Colorado rib steak, stone crab claws (seasonal), crab cake, creamed spinach, hash browns
Tip:
If you're craving a burger, there's one here at lunchtime only, served with bacon and cheese. If you’d like to have Bryant & Cooper quality meats at home, there’s a butcher shop and market adjacent to the restaurant.
Requisite steakhouse sides are all here, too: Wedge salads, superb crab cakes and potatoes hashed, mashed, French- or cottage-fried, baked or Lyonnaise. Don't forget your greens: Be sure to order the asparagus (when in season), the Brussel sprouts, and the creamed spinach. Save room for dessert and get ready to share; we suggest the chocolate cake or the key lime pie.
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