Centerport: The lobster deal at Nicky's

Lobster dinner special at Nicky's of Centerport Credit: Newsday / Peter M. Gianotti
Nicky's of Centerport is an old-fashioned place, down to the cigarette machine next to the bar. And it has been around since 1971. All the food is familiar and almost everyone at a table acts like a regular. The friendly service helps, too.
One of the things that could lure you is the eatery's lobster special. The price varies, of course. But these days, for $21.95 you get a very good, one-and-one-quarter-pound steamed lobster, with corn on the cob, a salad and a side dish. Precede the lobster with an order of Buffalo-style chicken wings. They're meaty. If you want them hot, as in spicy, say you prefer them absolutely incendiary. That may result in some modest heat.
The other choices aren't so grand. The 24-oounce shell steak is pretty chewy. And the kitchen's "blooming onion," a fried production that might resurrect memories of a long night at Outback, is tasteless and limp. The ranch dressing doesn't help. Nachos arrive black-edged and can't be rescued by any melted cheese or sliced jalapenos. The mini-crab cakes are industrial-strength.
But those wings, that lobster and maybe a finale of rice pudding will do.
Nicky's of Centerport, 6 Little Neck Rd., Centerport; 631-757-7277.
The lobster special