Chennai Dosas: Midday buffet bonanza

A Mysore masala dosa sits atop an uttapam with onion, chilies and peas at Chennai Dosas in Hicksville. Credit: Newsday / Joan Reminick
A recent afternoon buffet lunch, at $8.95 a person, was more than just a bargain; it was a standout. Iddly, or steamed lentil doughnuts, were lighter than any I’d had in a long time. Dip one in a bowl of spicy sambar soup, and you’re living large. Also on the buffet table was a version of palak paneer — spinach with house-made cheese — rich and wickedly spicy. Also, a dish you won’t find on the regular menu — beetroot and carrots — which had me going back for seconds.
With all this you get a dosa or uttapam that's made to order. My lunch companion went for the Mysore masala dosa, a light lentil crepe filled with a spicy mashed potato and onion mixture. I opted for the pancake version known as an uttapam, this one made with onions, chilies and peas. It turned out to be a stellar combination of flavors and textures, the creamy potatoes mixed into the foamy-light batter, the sprightly pop of peas followed by a one-two punch from the chilies.
Sometimes, a buffet can be a tired affair. Not the case here.
Chennai Dosas is at 128 Broadway, Hicksville, 516-681-5151.