Traditional, Mexican soft chicken tacos were served at Chichimecas restaurant...

Traditional, Mexican soft chicken tacos were served at Chichimecas restaurant in Farmingdale, now closed.  Credit: Johnny Simon

One of Long Island’s most ambitious Mexican restaurants has closed. When Chichimecas debuted in 2012 in the freestanding bi-level building alongside  Farmingdale's LIRR tracks, it was the third restaurant from Alejandro and Maria González, who also owned Oaxaca (est. 1996) and Quetzalcoatl (2007).

Chichimecas took its name from a nomadic people who lived in present-day Mexico and who fought fiercely against the Spanish conquistadors. They were noted for their smoked meats, and Alejandro inflected the restaurant’s menu with Mexican-style barbecue made in the smoker he inherited from the location’s previous tenant, Estelle’s Contemporary BBQ. (Estelle’s inherited the smoker from its predecessor, Fatty Beltbuckle’s.)

Both of the Gonzálezes’ other restaurants are open: Oaxaca (pronounced wah-HAH-kah)  is at 385 New York Ave., Huntington, 631-547-1232 and Quetzalcoatl (pronounced ket-zal CO-ah-tal) is at 296 Main St., 631-427-7834. 

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