Choopan Grill: Afghani oasis in Selden

Dinner at the new Selden branch of Choopan Grill (a long-standing Hicksville source of satisfying Afghani fare) was a meal that will bring me back for more.

I’m totally sold on the leek-stuffed dumplings called aushak, as well as chicken-stuffed relatives known as mantoo, both topped with a combo of yogurt and chicken meat sauce.

Although my lamb chops, requested medium-rare, were charred to near-incineration, I was happy to filch from my companion’s generous plate of murgh palow, brown rice served over bone-in chicken, accompanied by a bowl of resonant chicken curry.

For a finale, it was hard to beat the firnee, a light and fragrant custard infused with the flavors of rose water and cardamom, topped with chopped pistachios.

Choopan Grill is at 1310 Middle Country Rd., Selden, 631-696-1817.

Aushak at Choopan Grill, Selden