Commack: Greek life

Athenian Greek Taverna is tucked into a corner of a strip mall known best for Emilio's, the dependably fine pizzeria-restaurant. But when you're ready to swap mozzarella for feta, Athenian is a good little destination.

You'll find all the standards of Greek cuisine here, served by a friendly staff. There's very good, grilled whole fish, from rainbow trout and porgy to striped bass and red snapper. Also: tasty spreads, especially hummus, eggplant and creamy garlic-and-potato; and savory cheeses. Loukanico sausage and Greek meatballs stand out, too. Prices are moderate.

But the falafel patties and the spinach pie are overcooked. Pastitsio: leaden. And the moussaka isn't exactly light, either. Likewise, the gyro platters. You're better off with a Greek salad.

Athenian Greek Taverna is at 2187 Jericho Tpke., Commack; 631-499-7660.